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EGR Cleaning Done- Thanks for the help!

Discussion in 'Prius v Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by lrisius, Nov 4, 2022.

  1. lrisius

    lrisius Member

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    I just completed cleaning the EGR cooler and intake manifold on my 2015v. I also did the spark plugs, coolant and PCV valve while I was in there. The car has about 104,xxx miles on it and I added an oil catch can at about 70k. The spark plugs looked good and the EGR cooler wasn't as plugged as I thought it might be so I guess either the oil catch can is helping or I got to it well before it got serious. I was still able to blow through it pretty easily and can see daylight through it. It was much cleaner than used replacement I bought on ebay and cleaned so I could have a clean one ready to go.

    The job took about 11 hours in total with the normal wasted time for retrieving dropped tools, fighting to get the nut on the stud under the EGR cooler removed and back in, working the plastic wire clips loose, etc. I could probably shave a couple of hours off if I did it again soon.

    Anyway, thought I would provide a data point and just wanted to say thanks for all the advice I have gotten here and the old posts and links that helped me get this done!
     
    CR94 likes this.
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    We are always looking for such data points, mileage and before/after EGR flow, over on the thread specifically for that.

    You could collect the after-cleaning flow data now, but if you did not collect the before-cleaning data before doing the work, it's too late for that now. Descriptions like "blow through it pretty easily" or "see daylight" convey something, but they are harder for different people to judge and compare than the flow data.
     
    hxs90 likes this.
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Good timing for this. Following the engine coolant change interval is a pretty good rule of thumb: 100K miles (at the latest, then every 50K thereafter. Or at least 50K for the first follow up, and see how it looks.

    Ah, just leave that nut and stud off. Next time it'll go faster, and I'm 99% sure you won't need to remove the rearmost studs. Another benefit: the rear gasket will not drop, restrained by the studs.

    Will be 100% sure when I get around to another EGR visit...
     
    wheelz1980 likes this.
  4. lrisius

    lrisius Member

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    How would I measure that? Does it require Techstream? I have a Veepeak code scanner that I use with the Car Scanner app.
     
  5. lrisius

    lrisius Member

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    That is a great idea. It would simplify a number of things. It seems like the car could live without that one. I wish I had thought of this although I'm not sure I would be brave enough to try.
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Maybe a couple of years after I did cleaning on ours (fall of 2017), with all the components in place, I removed the lower EGR cooler nut, and the stud (requires E8 socket).

    As usual, getting the nut off was a pain. The stud too, I was afraid of rounding the head. I used a 1/4” ratchet, went real slow, loosened adjacent cables for more room. It took maybe 15 minutes of very slow wrenching, a click or two at a time. And both have been off ever since.

    I also removed the similar stud/nut combo at the valve, applied thin layer of anti-seize, and reinstalled. These two are easy to get to, not necessary to leave off, just seems like the stud in particular is hard to back out, due to steel/aluminum reaction I think. Did sim to the top bolt going into the head.

    Torque values for all the fasteners in first link in my signature. When installing after application of anti-seize, which I’d apply thin, then wipe off, leaving just a residue, you don’t want to go overboard on torque. Even reduce a pound or two. They’re locator bolts.

    FWIW, when @Ragingfit did his 4th gen engine into 3rd gen, he installs 3rd gen EGR, and it’s free spanning from exhaust manifold to intake manifold, no bolts or nuts/studs along the way.

    My setup is only the one left off, the others lubed and reinstalled.
     
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    It is one of the "mode 6" emission-monitor results. That's a standard OBD-II thing and any scan tool or app that can retrieve mode 6 results will do the trick. I think Car Scanner is one that can. On the thread I linked to, there's a post from someone who used Car Scanner to retrieve the result.