EGR Cooler Bottom Torx Stud Removal

Yeah, the nice thing about the remote clamp pliers is they have a ratchet. You squeeze to open the clamp and it stays that way. Position it where you want it, push the ratchet release, and let the handles back out to set the clamp.

 

Yes, that would be my thoughts as well for the next time. I'll have PTSD on this one for a while though. I hope it's like women and child labor, where the trauma fades with time, and you only remember the good things about it later.

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I think I'm going to try to find these as well. My fingers and hands are still sore trying to get the hoses off the EGR cooler.

At least the metal "fingers" of these hose pliers are rounded off and won't damage the hoses. I can see how access to the more out of the way or awkward angles to the hoses might be a problem though.

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To the OP, PriusII&C, sorry to hijack the thread with all the extra discussion above.

Here's some pics of my cooler and EGR valve removed at 125k on the odometer. I can see light through the middle of the cooler. Cooler looks more dusty than oily or carbonized, the way my EGR cooler I got off eBay was. The cooler I got off eBay was really plugged up with thick black oil and carbon.

My EGR valve and pipe were more oily looking than yours, but again, not so much carbon. Pretty easily cleaned off with soaking in degeaser and brushing.

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Here's a picture of the EGR cooler I got off eBay to pre clean and swap. I couldn't see any light through the middle of it.

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I had to remove and reinstall the EGR cooler I just swapped today.

Even with the bottom stud and nut removed, there's not enough clearance to maneuver the cooler into position with the end studs on the cooler. Theres the bottom and top mounting bracket that catches on all the hoses and wiring around the cooler.

I still had to position the cooler without the studs in place and mount them after. It's still much easier to do without the bottom stud in the way.

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I don’t think I’d do this, being a fan of return-to-stock before you trade or cell, but the bottom bracket could be lopped off.

 

Rather than finding the bottom stud "in the way", I just treated it as a locating peg to get the cooler roughly in position while I finished lining up the forward and aft ends.

 

Chap, you're repeating yourself (takes one to know one I guess, lol). Anyway: there's one simple bolt connection near the middle, at the top, that could serve that same purpose:

 

Well, my favorite kind of "locating peg" is the kind that's already there for me to hang the part on, not the kind that could serve the purpose of a locating peg as soon as I have aligned the holes without it, used my other hand to insert it through the aligned holes and twisted it.

 

Sigh...

 

I take it "Water Hose" means coolant?

 

Correct.

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Hey folks,

Thought I'd try replying to this thread vs starting a new one.. I've been trying to do this job in spurts of a few hours at a time.. now on day 4, and it's been an absolute nightmare! I have very large hands and that's seems to be exasperating it all.. Anyways.. the problem I have is I have partially stripped the REAR bottom stud (the two you remove from behind, closest to the firewall). I got the top bolt and stud out, got the bolt from hell off, but the stud is still in. Completely my fault.. I didn't realize it was an E8 and was using a 6mm ratchet (which was close enough to get the top one out). I can't seem to get the ratchet on firmly enough to break it loose, without risking stripping it more..

Has this happened to any of you? Am I completely screwed at this point?! (IE: put it back together and bring it to Toyota and let them deal with it?)

 

I’m guessing you mean the nut on the lower bracket of the cooler. Can you clarify?

You used a 6 mm hexagonal socket? Have you switched now, to an E8 Torx?

A couple of ideas:

1. With an Torx E8 socket, remove the stud at the lower cooler bracket. This will allow you to pull out the valve/cooler assembly without removing the remaining rear stud. You will need to loosen/ shift one conduit bracket that passes over the EGR, but yeah, the rear studs can stay on for this method. Be careful removing the lower cooler bracket stud; with dissimilar metals or whatever it’s stubborn, will resist all the way. And access is hampered by adjacent cables and all. BTW: just leave the lower cooler bracket nut and stud off, permanently.

2. Assuming the partial stripping you’ve done is bad enough to not use Torx E8, is there enough thread on the lower rear stud to get two nuts on, lock one against the other solidly, then try to break the stud loose with a wrench on the inside nut?

see first two links in my signature for more info. If on a phone turn it to landscape to see signatures.

 

Thanks for the reply Mendel!

Yes, wrote that quick while frustrated and hungry.. didn't quite explain myself well enough.

That's right, I initially got both the nut off the "bolt from hell" and rear top nut off the studs with a 6mm hexagonal socket. But when I tried the rear lower, I partially stripped it (IE: ratchet started turning and I thought it was breaking free, but then it slipped off and I realized I rounded the edges a bit.) I have since gotten myself proper Torx sockets, and tried again last night with the E8, but I can't seem to get a good enough "bite" on it and feel like I'm just going to strip it worse at this point. Great idea about the "two nut" trick!! Didn't even cross my mind, and yes, I think there is enough room to do that!

I had the idea of trying to take out the "bolt from hell" stud at the bottom so I could pull the whole thing forwards, but in my frustration and "over thinking" it, I somehow convinced myself the back with the partially stripped stud would still be attached.. now that I've had sleep and read your reply.. yeah, makes complete sense and I think I'll give that another try!

I'm also really struggling with getting some of the hoses pulled off the EGR, but I'm assuming once I get the assembly free from the studs that will be easier. I'll keep trying! Thanks again!

Ryan

 

For coolant hoses I’ll put the edge of a large, flat blade screw driver at the end of hose, press firmly against the spigot, push hard against the hose edge. Repeat at several points around the hose perimeter, and it usually breaks loose a bit, continue pushing that hose edge, while also pulling on the hose, and kinda pull on various angles. It’ll break loose eventually.

if you drain a couple of liters from the rad beforehand, it’ll leave the EGR system high and dry. Drain into a clean container and pour back into reservoir afterwards.

 

I agree, the coolant hoses are a nightmare to grip and remove, especially in the tight spaces around the engine compartment.

I use a combination of long reach hose pliers, pry bars, and hose picks to remove the hoses.

The hose clamps are yet another PITA problem all their own.

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Just wanted to give an update. Even with the "two nut trick" I was still unable to get the rear bottom stud out. I was however able to pry the hoses off with the long flathead screwdriver method, and once they were all detached, it gave me enough play to wiggle it off the two remaining studs. Got it out without dropping the rear gasket. Separated the valve from the cooler and the cooler went right into the ultrasonic bath. Unfortunately I then proceeded to strip one of the two phillips head screws that attaches the black electrical connector to the EGR valve. I since was able to cut the top of it with a hacksaw, and then get a flathead into the cut and remove the screw. Now to find a replacement screw.. also, once the EGR cooler was out and on my bench, I then had enough leverage to use the "two nut trick" to remove the last remaining stud. The tip of it was pretty mangled.. but I'll re-use the bottom stud (that you all suggest to leave off) in it's place.

Soooo... it's been very frustrating... but there's finally light at the end of the tunnel!! Thanks again for your help and suggestions folks!!

 

I got these on Amazon, worked well. Their socket head cap screw style, with hexagonal socket. I added washers.

Replacement screws

think the link may be broken; here’s the text description. Still, maybe just get what you can find, get fancy later.

XunLiu Grade 12.9 Alloy Steel Hex Socket Head Cap Screws (50, M1.4x3)