EGR & Intake Manifold Clean Results

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Rebound, Jun 25, 2017.

  1. Pseudonymm

    Pseudonymm New Member

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    I'd never heard of a manual impact screwdriver before--they look great. I do have some experience with a brace & bit, which can be used to apply huge torque gradually in a controlled manner, if you can apply enough body weight to keep the bit from slipping. The primitive jaws or chucks can be a problem, though Lee Valley makes a more modern one, I think.

    What I resorted to was inserting crumpled paper towels as far back as I could, and then using them as a sort of diaper as I scraped and shot cleaner on the walls, removing them with pliers as they became too sarurated. One thing I didn't do was remember to avoid rubbing the injectors...
     
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  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Obtuse Angler

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    I have no clue, but still I'd suspect fuel injectors would be fine. It's more interior clogging that would be a problem. Just give them a last minute wipe with a clean cloth, maybe dampened with carb cleaner.
     
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  3. amos

    amos Active Member

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    i have one, im in l.a
     
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  4. FlyboyTR

    FlyboyTR Member

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    Afternoon, everyone!

    I just completed the install of a 1.6" lift kit on my 2012 v. Had to do a little modding and cutting for that one. Anyway, I have 155k. The EGR system had never been touched by the previous owner. Since I have the wiper tray/baffle stuff out, I have decided to go ahead and do the intake manifold cleaning and the EGR/Cooler cleaning as well. My plan is to order new intake gaskets and EGR & cooler gaskets. I am assuming three gaskets total. Is that right?

    Is there a simple oil catch can that can be recommended. They are everywhere on Amazon and eBay. Just want to get the right one. Also...what size ID hose is this connecting to? Thanks. I'll post an update when I'm done. :)
     
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  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Obtuse Angler

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    I'd be inclined to just replace the rubber gaskets. (or neoprene, or whatever, the flexible/compressible ones). That's basically the 3 gaskets that push onto the the intake manifold, at it's connection to:

    1. cylinder head
    2. throttle body
    3. EGR pipe

    Item 2 and 3 here:

    Intake for 2012 Toyota Prius V | McGeorge Toyota Parts

    And item 1 here:

    Throttle Body for 2012 Toyota Prius V | McGeorge Toyota Parts

    All the others are metal, just bare metal, no coating, and I can't see them needing replacement. With one possible exception: the rearmost gasket, between EGR cooler and exhaust manifold. Simply because Toyota didn't put any retention clips on it, and it is VERY easy to drop, into the nether regions.

    FWIW I didn't replace ANY gaskets when I did our 2010, but it's garage stored, and only had about 70K kms.

    3/8", and SAE30R7 (or SAE30R6, fine too I think) fuel line is good, readily avaialable at any automotive specialty shop, for maybe a bit over $1 per foot.

    Most are taking the stock PCV hose and cutting it at the middle, splicing the OCC hoses in. Pex splice connectors are good for the connection, or hose barb connectors. There's a practical reason for this: the stock PCV hose is roughly 3/8" ID at the PCV valve end, but flares out significantly at the intake manifold end. They're likely actually metric spec ID's. Long story short: if you cut that hose at the middle and splice in, 3/8" works.

    The barb style splice is all I could find at short notice: the only problem with them is the sharp barbs are very unforgiving, if you ever want to pull the hose off, make some mod or adjustment. What I did the latest time was chuck the splice in a drill press, then knock the sharp barb edge off slightly, with a file.

    I went with Moroso 85474. It's build quality is superb, it's very complete, with clamping support ring and mounting bracket, all the fittings. It only comes with 3' of the aforementioned hose, probably only enough for one side, at with some locations, up top. It has a drain spout and tap on the bottom, which is very convenient, IF bottom access works for you. I mounted mine low, drain it with oil changes.

    The big draw back, it's about 5 times more expensive than the $30 ones...
     
    #245 Mendel Leisk, Aug 23, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2019
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  6. 2011Prii

    2011Prii Junior Member

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    I did one of the $30 catch cans and added my own baffle to my satisfaction and it has caught some nasty stuff. While I'm here, has anybody had the P0401 code after a THOROUGH cleaning if the egr circuit (cooler, valve, pipe, manifold including small ports in each runner)? I have that code and have verified with Techstream that my egr valve is working properly, as is my map sensor. Wondering if maybe the small amount of residual deposits from the cooler blew into the egr plunger and plugged up that area. Well, I'll dig in tomorrow to find out, but it's been a chore chasing that code after 2 very thorough cleanings.
     
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  7. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Have you tried to actuate the plunger by opening the black cap and manually working it:whistle:?

    Might be one way to ensure the valve is free;).

    Good luck and keep us posted (y).
     
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  8. NewHybridOwner

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    How did you add a baffle to your oil catch can? I have a squarish one with no baffle and was thinking of epoxying in an aluminum divider extending partway down, in addition to adding some stainless-steel pot scrubber.
     
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  9. 2011Prii

    2011Prii Junior Member

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    Yes, I've done that more times than I care to share and it moves freely with zero sticking. I even added a tiny bit of lubricant on the bottom of the magnet to ensure it does not get stuck in the closed position. Also did the egr step test on Techstream to verify it works AND monitored step position while driving. All seemed great.

    I used some window screen I had lying around the house combined with some old metal mesh grill I had. I cut them both down to the correct height, then rolled them up around a screwdriver and inserted that into the catch can around the line that comes in from the pcv valve. I can try to snap a pic this afternoon when I dig into the car a bit. It's simple, but has seemed to do well.
     
  10. 2011Prii

    2011Prii Junior Member

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    I'm just flat out stumped. Opened up the egr valve hoping to find a lot of deposits built up around the valve and that was not the case. Valve had some condensation from a short drive, but otherwise clear. I attached a few pics of what I found. It's as clean as it was when I put it back about 100 miles ago (shocker). Haven't taken intake manifold out (I've already cleaned it very thoroughly), but I am able (with a vacuum hose) able to easily blow air through the egr pipe into the manifold and also through the cooler. I have no idea at all how I still have an insufficient flow code after all this cleaning and verifying that everything seems to be working appropriately, including MAP sensor.
     

    Attached Files:

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  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Obtuse Angler

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    The only other suspect is the small passage ways (one per intake port) on the intake manifold, for EGR flow. You've verified, run pipe cleaners or something through them?
     
  12. 2011Prii

    2011Prii Junior Member

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    Yes, I've done that to the point where I'd almost pour a glass of water through there and drink it. All 4 were free flowing very well. Cooler is off now and still clean as it was last time too. Picture doesn't show well, but passages are free and clear.
     

    Attached Files:

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  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Obtuse Angler

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    Is the code for insufficient EGR flow, the only symptom now, ie: the car drives fine. You mentioned you've got Techstream: have you tried dismissing the code?

    You've gone through all the jazz in the attached?(Full disclosure: I've never read it, looks kinda deep. :oops:)
     

    Attached Files:

    #253 Mendel Leisk, Aug 24, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2019
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  14. 2011Prii

    2011Prii Junior Member

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    Yeah, it's the P0401. I've cleared it numerous times and it always comes back. Thank you for the link, but I've been through all that. Makes no sense at all.
     
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  15. capolihu

    capolihu Member

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    Mine was fully clogged (EGR cooler) and the small four holes as well in the IM, but it did not throw that code. (I'm glad you guys mentioned those holes back then as first time, I missed them)

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Obtuse Angler

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    Buy another EGR valve, on the cheap on EBay, swap it out?
     
  17. 2011Prii

    2011Prii Junior Member

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    That's about where I'm at. Either egr valve and/or map sensor and make sure they've got 30 day returns or something. Only bummer is I'd like to get the updated part number 25620-37120 since I have a 25620-37110 and I can't find that for under $200, new or used. Same with a map sensor. And I just hate throwing parts at it, but guess that's what I'll resort to if it doesn't clear after today's work. I appreciate your replies and input.
     
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  18. FlyboyTR

    FlyboyTR Member

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    Mendel,
    Thanks for the info. Parts are ordered. I have looked at several different catch cans. I would prefer one with a drain. So I am now looking at the various size options to find one that I can easily fit/install and still be able to service. No much open real estate available! Please know how much your info was appreciated! :)

    I am getting ready to start draining coolant and taking things apart. Should be fairly straight forward...hopefully! LOL
     
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  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Obtuse Angler

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    Jegs is a US site that's a real candy store. Never ordered anything from them, but worth a look.

    I mounted mine on a bracket atop the lower cross beam, below the intake manifold (drain from below, when doing oil changes), but appreciate a lot of people prefer to have it up top.
     
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  20. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    I think there's only 2 of us left that's got it on mounted the beam behind the fan since Ray sold his gen 3. I can also get the occ by removing the air intake and filter box, the OCC's hoses are long enough to pull it out to where the filter box is and then drain so you can avoid the under panel removal to drain. It's even quicker by removing the filter box assembly to drain.
     
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