Electrical contact question -- kitchen cooktop

Well, thanks for all the replies to this.

Finally, got the new cooktop on Thursday. Only $200 more than "fixing" the cracked cooktop would have been. The LOCAL independent shop gave me a steep discount, originally and then even more once it took more than a month to get the new cooktop.

So, as Chapman mentioned in the long detailed and quite good report. I have some strange looking connectors that need a torque wrench.

Here's a look at the them specifically. Made by Polaris, out of Florida. Mine are the black model. However, all through the Polaris Web site, they say these things need a hex key.

I just pried off the caps, and my have the standard slotted screwdriver tops in them. Did the electrician swap them out....why?

I have gotten a bit scared of this whole thing. I am going to check on Monday and see if the original electrician can come out and do it. Would not suppose, even with travel time, it would take him anymore than an hour. Twenty minutes to get here. Twenty back and 15 minutes on the job.

But, then again. Maybe these are easy to USE? Are the original ones that are now on there reusable. I would think so....

I am on the fence....

http://www.polarisconnectors.com/pdfs/NSi/IT_series.pdf

 

Thanks, Chap for the help.

As I mentioned, I pried the caps off the connectors and instead of hex screws, it looks like the electrician replaced the hex screws with standard slotted screws. I was wondering why, but then thought that maybe he did not have something suitable to measure torque with a hex wrench, but had a standard torque screwdriver.

Just hope he used the right screws!

He had also wrapped all the Polaris connectors in a double layer of electrical tape, which was a sticky mess.

One question -- I guess I do not need the special lubricant I bought to coat the wires, but it would not hurt if I used it, right?

 

EEEKKKK!

I finally got the old cooktop out. And unpacked the NEW cooktop.

And...

aluminium

The new cooktop has all aluminium wiring! Or at least they are all silver colored.

 

Not sure about the wires. As I tried to seat the new cooktop into the cutout, it did not fit.

Part of the reason I went with the new GE cooktop was their "it will fit" guarantee. Guess I will find out if they honor their words.

This thing has been "interesting."
kris

 

I am a bit of a "take the path less traveled" person. I do not have a smart phone. So, taking a pix of the installation is not all that easy.

I used to have a Canon digital camera. But, I think I lost it in a snow storm several years ago. Nothing like sliding down a hill in an uncontrolled panic to make you lose your camera.

So, the countertop is granite. GE Fit guarantee will pay a whopping $100 to make it fit. The local granite guy charges $250.

I did the best I could with the local granite guy. I actually paid him to install the countertop several years ago - to make the old top fit. It looks like he may take a few centavos off the price. Not sure how much. When he gets here, we will see.

Not too happy at the moment.
kris

 

Got new cooktop into the granite. I ended up swapping out two standard hex head sheet metal screws, which were hanging up on the granite, for two panhead screws, so it just barely slid home.

So, have cooktop in place. "Electric boy" does not want to come out to fasten wires. Can't say I blame him. Our little homestead is a far piece out.

I really think I can handle the wiring. I would just like to use the same connectors that were used originally. The Polaris. However, no one around here sells them to "real people."

And, I could try to reuse the original. They, however are extremely sticky from being wrapped in electric tape, and I am also not too sure the screws will stand a second tightening session without the head stripping out.

So, if I went for new ones, I would have to "order them."

Chap said:
I'm guessing you've got one of their two smallest connector products (the 1/0 or the #4), so if you look at the wire you are connecting and it is (say) #8, you would tighten a 1/0 connector to 45 inch-pounds, or a #4 connector to 25 inch-pounds.

I have no idea what sort of wire I am using. It is just standard copper from the cooktop (12 or 10 gauge?) and then the wire from the panel.

Is there someway I can figure out what polaris connectors I need to order?

Again, thanks all for your help and your calm with my stupid questions. Have been working on this since August. I suppose another few weeks without a cooktop will not hurt. Although I would sort of like it working by Christmas.

Kris

 

Finally got the thing done. I did forget to put the small discs that cover the screws back on. OPPS, but I did dutifully wrap each Polaris in electrical tape, so I do not suppose there is any issue.

I would take a pix, but as I have said before, I do not have a smart phone and I lost my camera a few years ago. So, only three months to get this fixed!!

THANKS ALL OF YOU>

If you look the round discs at the top are what I forgot. Oh, well...


kris