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Electrical mystery

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by JIM777, May 26, 2018.

  1. JIM777

    JIM777 Member

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    Electrical mystery
    05 Prius
    Okay here's the mystery. Previous owner said the battery went out and he had a couple cells replaced by a mechanic. One-time previously and now the mechanic said apparently more cells had gone bad. He said his son-in-law had been using it as is for a while but, now it's been just setting for a couple months and he was wanting to just sell it.
    When I arrived it would not start try to jump it, still would not even turn over. I put an HV battery in it jumped it and it started right up. Battery did not show that it was charging at first but after about 10 minutes it looked like everything was going to be fine. And about an hour into my trip the battery stop charging and trip information display showed no power output from engine tires battery or electric motors. Also started to run very poorly. Attached photos show screenshot of techstream codes when I got it home.
    Now it started to behave very strange when you turn the turn signal on 1 flashes normally and the other one very dim at the same time. Also when you put it in reverse the turn signal indicators both light up.
    And now my techstream program will not connect to it.
    Width the code for the temperature sensor (A) in the battery cause this much problem? Of course the red triangles on too.
    Wondered if anybody ever seen this before or knows what direction to look.
    Thanks have a great day!
     

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  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Sounds to me like some actual, old-school electrical system diagnosis in your future.

    My first car was sold to me for $1 by somebody who gave up on it when the turn signals started making the radio blink.

    -Chap
     
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  3. JIM777

    JIM777 Member

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    Thanks did you ever get it fixed?
     
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I did. I was in high school, and learned a lot of what I know about electrical troubleshooting over the time I spent tracking stuff down in that car. And that was a long time before any high-techy hybrid stuff ... just electrical basics.

    Actually kept that car until two years after college. And all the electrical stuff worked. :)

    -Chap
     
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  5. Andyprius1

    Andyprius1 Senior Member

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    Check all connections, 12V good?, You put in a new HV Bat? Did you check the torque values on all the HV cell to cell connectors? You can always reboot the 12V and then try to put it in ready. any corrosion at all on HV replacement battery connectors?
     
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  6. JIM777

    JIM777 Member

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    Thanks
    I was able to connect to Prius found out it was a computer issue. These are the codes I found any idea of which direction to take first?
    hybrid controller p3000
    HV battery poa80
    P 3017
    ABS /VSC/ track
    c1259
    c1310

    Also see pictures.
     

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  7. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Well P3017 points to block 7 being weak and in the last screen shot you can see it is about 1 volt lower than everything else:(.

    So definitely a failed module in block 7 would be a starting point for next steps ;).

    The first 2 screen shots look the same to me as in it is for P3000 with the INF code 123. I’d research that a bit to see what else you could learn there.

    But your hybrid battery pack is on its way out in block 7:(.

    Keep us posted (y).
     
  8. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    P3000 is really just a repeater code and simply means the HV control heard that the battery ECU has a problem. It lets the driver know this and performs the fail-safe control.

    The RM description is:

    The HV control ECU gives warning to the driver and performs the fail-safe control, according to the abnormal signal received from the battery ECU.

    The codes to focus on are the P0A80 and P3017.
     
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  9. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

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    Wait!!! Did you say you jump started the HV system, and the car started? How did you do this? Wanna learn about it.
     
  10. JIM777

    JIM777 Member

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    No I did not jump start HV battery just 12 volt battery. After installing a Hv battery that was supposed to be good.
    Is it possible that something is wrong with the charging system that calls number 7 to misbehave. According display the charging system is not charging HV battery at all at this point. Screen shows no power transfer whatsoever.
     
  11. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Either block 7 is bad or its connection to the monitoring system. I take it that the HV battery you put in was not new.
     
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  12. JIM777

    JIM777 Member

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    No it was not new but I did test all the cells and they all seem to be pretty good.
     
  13. JIM777

    JIM777 Member

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    Here are the other screenshots.
    Is there a good place to look up all the different codes?
    Thanks
     

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  14. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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  15. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    If you spend $15 and go to techinfo.toyota.com you get access to the repair manual and can them deep drill each code you have from the source;).

    When I get into issues, that $15 for a 2 business day subscription is money and time well spent :).

    Good luck and keep us posted (y).
     
  16. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    I don't find that site particularly useful for any Prius specific codes. It is too generic and some of the advice is not applicable or, sometimes, is even detrimental to a Prius. It is ok for generic engine codes, though.

    The codes to focus on are the P0A80 and the P3017. All the other codes come from these two, so the RM tells you to fix these codes (by replacing the HV battery – the only Toyota service option). You don't really need a site to look these up, as these codes tell you as much as you really need to know.

    If you look at the voltage reading for block 7 (higher than the others if charging; lower if discharging) and also the IR (internal resistance) you will see these are out of step with the others. This confirms the codes.

    You will need to disassemble the HV battery and replace either or both of the modules in that block. The block count starts from the end opposite the ECU/electrics, so the RHS (or (US) passenger side) of the battery. You should also check the harnesses/cables (some are pretty fragile) and the bus bar plates. Personally, I'd just buy a new harness set if they looked at all iffy. Ensure you torque all nuts to spec with a in/lb torque wrench, especially the bus bar nuts.

    You will need to source replacement modules that have similar characteristics as your remaining modules, and the recondition the battery charge/discharge/charge/balance regime, if you want it to last. It will last 6 months - 1 year depending on how thorough you are. then get ready to do it all over again as the next module fails.
     
    #16 dolj, May 29, 2018
    Last edited: May 30, 2018
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  17. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Good, thorough answer, @dolj! Thanks for taking the time. (y)
     
  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Hah, after putting a bumper back on a car, and connecting all the wiring (correctly, so I though), my left turn signal made the washer fluid squirt. Oncoming traffic was astounded...:ROFLMAO:

    Apologies to OP, way off-topic.
     
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