Engine misfire, Transmission lights, and VSC lights... on my..

How did this car get so messed up?

 

How many miles? We've read of Prius taxis with 300,000 miles and no serious problems.

The question and answer will not be helpful to you, but perhaps to others.

 

111K miles per V8's signature. V8's car has a sufficient number of problems so that it is hard to keep track of them all.

Regarding the engine oil pump, I suggest that you first make sure that the oil level is correct. Then if you continue to see the MFD oil can that warns of low oil pressure, you can suspect the oil pump. Otherwise the warning probably came on due to low oil level which left the pickup tube momentarily high & dry during driving.

Regarding the issue of bolts snapping, this is indicative of excessive torque being applied. I've found that my 3/8" and 1/2" Craftsman click torque wrenches are very useful tools, as I personally would tend to apply excessive torque otherwise. This is why I usually provide torque values when posting about how to do a particular job.

V8, given your name, I imagine you are aware that Ford modular V8 engines are particularly susceptible to damage if the spark plugs are not properly torqued into the aluminum heads. Or how about if the plastic intake manifold needs to be replaced and you don't want to crack the replacement. A decent torque wrench is required for those jobs as well as many others...

 

I'm trying to demonstrate that by offering ideas to help with your Prius. It sounds like it is well on its way to recovery now, so I'll leave you to it.

Based on your screen name, I erroneously thought you might have owned a Mustang Cobra in the past with the DOHC 4.6 V8 engine. (If you think about it, this is a strange product name: a horse combined with a snake.)

 

The "modular" Ford V8's use composite intakes, unless you put on an aftermarket high performance intake manifold, which are usually aluminum. The "modular" V8's have a "dry" intake

The 302 V8 had a "wet" intake manifold, coolant runs through it. Torque sequence is very important to prevent coolant seepage, especially at either end of the block.

The 302 has some important "gotcha's" to keep in mind. Those vintage Ford V8's adjust the valves with different length pushrods. If for any reason you have to pull a head, it's really important to build a jig and put the pushrods and rocker arms/springs in correct order

Another gotcha is to make sure to use replacement head bolts. That vintage Ford used torque-to-yield and if for any reason you have a head off, you will have nothing but trouble if you attempt to reuse the head bolts. The torque will never be right, and you will probably blow the new head gasket

I've had very good luck with ARP head bolts. If you intend to take the head off a lot, a stud kit is better. Speaking of heads, the best way to properly line up a 302 Ford head - this works for other V8's as well - is to take some old head bolts and cut the heads off.

Turn them into temporary studs. Put two of them in, one on each lower corner of the block. Then slip the head gasket on, then the head. You never have to worry about a head gasket slipping around

The 5.3 Vortec in my 2000 GMC Sierra had a dry composite intake. Almost every modern V8 that I know of, had a "dry" intake manifold