Engine seized? 118k miles

The one way to tell what the voltage of the pack is would be to measure the voltage or have software like Techstream tell you what it is reading.

But my bet is the voltage is around 200 volts and that’s too low for either of the Prii to allow it to start the car.

As for other issues, if you can hand crank the car, the issues are elsewhere. But you won’t be able to figure that out until you can get the car to “ready”.

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

Hand cranking is pretty easy. I used to do it all the time, checking valve clearances on our Hondas. Maybe take off the wheel too, for easier access.

I happened to take a look at ours when putting on the snow tires recently:


All our Honda's had a little opening in the splash shield at the bolt, this is a bit more hassle to access.

I checked socket size, it was 17 or 19 IIRC. Have lots of extensions.

Is there a preferred rotation direction??

 

From a lot more of a layman's mind than the regulars here...
I'm wondering if the car sat for an extended time before the auction. Enough for the HV batt to give this inability of starting the engine.

My input is that i'm from a decades worth of hobby RC NiMH use in model planes and cars. The several bars showing may well be correct for voltage, but there's no current. The car attempts to power basically anything and errors out.
It looks likely that you'll have to do HV batt work anyway, I would check all grounding points, fluid levels, 12V batt health etc as preparation. Then try your friends charged up battery just once, to see if the errors are different. It may start up, stranger things have happened at sea!
With a similar fail, you'll know there's more than a battery issue for definite.

Getting some juice in the HV batt is a must though.
If it helps your fears, i've had batteries sit in planes for years and they come back after several short charges. We're only vaguely talking apples to apples though of course. As long as an NiMH doesn't have crusty white fluff rubbish around its positive terminal it'll come back fine. Low current charging always does best. Several, 20 seconds, short charges will see the 'dead' cell begin to charge.
For the smiles, I have a 2006 Silverlit SWP micro plane which gets rejuved every couple of years for a fly and is why I like the cells in the Prius The point though is it's better to have a flat NiMH pack than a flat lithium pack.

 

Clockwise is the rotation direction.

If there was a way to “safely” use jumper cables to hook the two hybrid batteries together at the outputs to charge the dead hybrid battery, that’s what needs to be done. But that’s just not possible.

However, if you measured the individual cell voltages, and paired a lower voltage cell with a higher one. Basically use the cells to create two partially charged batteries. Drive the Prius that will run with each battery to a higher state of charge, then put the cells back together in their original configuration.

It’s a lot of work, but it just might get your battery back to the point that it will start, or try to start your Prius again.

 

Yes, people do that sometimes on here... But what are you gonna do if you drain your friend's battery pack down below what can start their car? Meaning, once you have a way to charge up your own battery pack, then you can safely test your system with theirs... But again, the issue is first the engine not starting, which caused the battery pack to drain out. Figuring what's wrong with the engine needs to be your primary focus!

 

Ignoring safety I have built a universal battery charger out of a $5
500 volt diode
A pair of harbor freight battery clips
A broken extension cord
A broken 2 row power strip
An old 100 watt light bulb and fixture

You need a 220 volt AC outlet and a multimeter

Wire a series circuit through the diode, lightbulb and into your HV battery
plug her into 220vac and monitor main pack voltage, the lower the resistance the faster it will charge

Most of the junk I already had laying around
So I only had $5 invested in the above and it charges fine.

Similar to this
3 Dollar Battery Charger

If your poor and just need to partially charge a battery the above works fine, just observe common HV voltage precautions and watch the battery voltage to ensure you don’t overcharge

 

Techstream .

 

At the inverter, you can, with HV gloves on, take the 10-12 bolts out of the black cover. Find the two wire connector. That’s the HV in to the inverter. Measure the HV input to the inverter. If the car won’t stay in/go in ready mode, you may need someone to push the power button as you are taking the reading.

 

You could just get the Prolong battery charger. I think it's $350????
Then you can put a full charge on it. And you can always rent it out to someone else who might need it
for a fee and recover the money.
That would be the safest way to do it. Unless you had it towed to a Toyota dealership so they could charge it.

 

The important part of the P3147 is the sub code. It could be a poor connection at any one of the 6 wires (3 per each mot-gen) in the transaxle, the other end of the harness at the inverter, the transaxle damper, or the mot-gen could simply be mechanically unable to turn.

When I googled the P3147, there was a 115 page document that was in the results. It lists diagnostic codes that can occur in the Prius and likely causes.

It’s also possible that the codes are left over from a dead 12v battery. It might be worth while to erase them and see what happens.

It’s possible the codes are the only thing stopping the ICE from starting.

 

runs and drives in auction lingo simply means the car was able to move a few yards on its own. it could've been in EV.
never buy auction car before checking it first yourself!

 

This may sound crazy but if you were really hard on cash... You could:
1. Remove all the bus bars
2. with some short jumpers with alligator clips connect all + terminals together
3. jumper all - terminals together.
4. wait a couple hours for the modules to rebalance.
5. connect a 6v trickle charger to the now 28 modules connected in parallel.
6. wait hours until its done?
7. Remove jumpers.
8. Reconnect bus bars.

If all the cells are good - this should work in theory but I've never done it.

If your charger charges to 7V the hybrid battery would be almost fully charged.

 

Connect mutimeter to output of charger to monitor charge voltage. Probably looking at 3-4 hours at a 2 amp charge rate.

 

With them all charging in parallel @2 A that's 2/28 A per module which is probably low enough to not need a fan. But you may want to monitor and let the modules cool off if they get too warm.

Pixel XL ?

 

ummm.....there may be a bit of misunderstanding here, but 28 modules connected in parallel actually has a capacity of 6500mAh PER module. So 28 modules in parallel has a potential capacity of 28x6500mAh or about 182K mAh. So lets assume 3500 mAh per mod to get enough charge, is 98,000 mAh........A 2 Amp charge rate isn't going to get it done. Assuming equal distribution, that's about 71 milliamps per module. You wouldn't need hours, you would need days.....(that sounds so Star Trek)

And a 7 volt module is worth dirt. It's effectively depleted. The vast majority of the charge/energy is at and above the 7.2 volt plateau, hence why it is rated 6500mAh @ 7.2 vdc. It would need to get into the 7.6-7.7 range to even have a chance.

 

So charge them in groups of 4, at 500 mA per cell if the distribution is equal?

 

My 6v charger has a no load output of 7.8v on the 2 amp rate