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Engine seized? 118k miles

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Jamesmlemay, Nov 30, 2018.

  1. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    I did note this today. My car would not restart the ICE until I cleared the code that resulted from unplugging the sensor. Also, if you unplug the throttle body, it does the same. You must clear the code before trying to restart the ICE.

    I recommend attempts to start the ICE in maintenance mode. It will spin the ICE slightly longer before it errors out.

    I also believe that prolonged attempts to start may have had fouled the spark plugs. Those may need to be changed as well.
     
  2. Jamesmlemay

    Jamesmlemay Member

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    Oh so your car DOES NOT spin with the p0335 code? That's a relief. I thought you had said it did spin to start.

    I clear it every time. The motor has never spun since I've owned this car.
     
  3. Jamesmlemay

    Jamesmlemay Member

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    I clear the code but it remains as a permanent code. When I restart it it comes back as a current code. I'll try the new sensor tomorrow to rule it out.
     
  4. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    No, it did spin up. But once the code set, it does not spin until the code is cleared.
     
  5. Jamesmlemay

    Jamesmlemay Member

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    Right on. I guess I don't know how to take it then haha. Mine has never spun. Only code is crank sensor circuit malfunction
     
  6. Jamesmlemay

    Jamesmlemay Member

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    I tried the other crank sensor with no luck. I did find acorns that looked old on top of the transmission but did not see any damage. I retested the wiring to the ecu and it checked out good. Here is the hybrid and engine ecu data files. Hopefully pdf works here...



    The lost communication code was a mistake on my end. The cam shaft code is from when I unplugged it to see if it threw another code. Which it did.

    In the data file it says that an engine stop request was made.
     

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    #106 Jamesmlemay, Dec 22, 2018
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2018
  7. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I guess I'm really confused now. The motor has NEVER SPUN since you've owned it? Yet, the HV battery has depleted trying to start it? This is what makes providing advice so difficult without actually being there.
     
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  8. Jamesmlemay

    Jamesmlemay Member

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    Toyota service records indicate the previous owner drove it as far as they could after the engine shut off. There for depleting the battery. Also I believe the auction company moved it around on hv battery power as well.

    I bought the prolong charger. Charged the hv battery to a great balanced state of charge. I bought a new 12 volt battery. I tested the crank sensor and replaced it just in case. I tested the crank sensor wiring to the ecu plug per Toyota service manual and it checkd out fine.
     
  9. Jamesmlemay

    Jamesmlemay Member

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    Others have mentioned trying to start it will drain the battery. The battery was low when I rolled it off the uhaul trailer.
     
  10. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    This description of the code is pretty generic.
     

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  11. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    I did find on the Highlander Hybrid forum, they recommend cleaning the throttle body in ANY case where the ICE won’t start. Especially if the 12v has been disconnected. It resets to 0% and any gum at all holds it shut. And gives a P0A0F.
     
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  12. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I guess I'm just confused about the spinning part, which is a fairly important step. The engine must spin in order to try to start. Yet, you say the engine has never spun since you've had it. If the crank position sensor CEL appears immediately after you clear it, without the engine even spinning, I think that problem needs to be solved first. Nothing else matters squat if the engine never spins.
     
  13. Jamesmlemay

    Jamesmlemay Member

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    The car is not going to run without spinning the motor. I am working on trying to fix that problem..
     
  14. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    This is a lot different issue than I understood. I guess I had assumed the engine cranked but failed to start due to an issue with the CPS.

    If the engine is never even spinning due to the crank position sensor CEL locking in again immediately after clearing it (even though the engine has never even tried to turn), then I would imagine there is an interruption between the sensor/wiring/ecu and the ecu is assuming no sensor is connected or the ecu has failed.

    Have you been able to check wire resistance from ECU connector to the sensor connector?

    Unfortunately, I have no technical documentation for a 2010 so I can't look up any wires, etc. Also don't have any Gen3 items other than HV batteries.

    Once you have techstream, with your foot off the brake, press the power button twice. This will let you connect techstream, go online with the car (without it trying to start) where you can do a health check on all the ecus. Maybe it will come up with something about a sensor not connected or ecu problem.
     
    #114 TMR-JWAP, Dec 25, 2018
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2018
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  15. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    Are you 100% sure the engine does not spin when turning the car on? Like marking the crankshaft location and trying to start the car?

    You can check the damper by jacking up the front wheels, turning the power on, putting the car in neutral and turning the crank by hand. If the wheels turn, the damper and such in the transaxle is ok. If I remember correctly from the Weber Auto video, three and change turns of the crankshaft will spin the tires one revolution.
     
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  16. Jamesmlemay

    Jamesmlemay Member

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    I will check that to check internals.

    I have verified the engine does not spin when I turn the car on. It drives in electric only and and rolls fine in neutral. I assume all is well there but I will check.

    I can get a used ecu cheap. I am trying to find out whether or not I can drop one in or whether or not it has to be coded. It would be worth a try if it is plug and play.

    I was wrong about it coming back. It stays as a permanent code. It would go away after a certain amount of cycles without the problem. I have checked the resistance between ecu and sensor. All is well. Health check shows nothing now that the 12v is new and hv battery is charged. p0335 and p0a0f are the only codes on the entire system.
     
  17. kc5dlo

    kc5dlo Active Member

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    Very interesting thread.
     
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  18. Jamesmlemay

    Jamesmlemay Member

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    Hopefully I find a solution!
     
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  19. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    It almost has to be an issue in the damper. But it seems like that would be noisy when driving it. If the damper does check out then I’d suspect the ICE ecu is not seeing the crank sensor. This thread is testing all of my diagnostic ability. It’s like a book you can’t put down.
     
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  20. Jamesmlemay

    Jamesmlemay Member

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    Yeah I am usually pretty good at this type of stuff. The hybrid aspect brings a whole new level to it. I have read that damper issues would cause a jerking motion while rolling the car but I do not know that for sure. I will do the test that you suggested. I keep looking at the data files for the codes but nothing stands out, except this...
     

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