Engine Starts and Stalls in 3 seconds P3030

Taylor Automotive, Sanford, NC, #1 shop on the East Coast for Gen 1 Prius.

(919) 774-4037

You could try using the system main relay and battery ECU out of your old battery.

Test voltages from the battery side of the sense wire harness to see if there the bad connector shows up that way.

15.0-15.5 is pretty bad, that battery is significantly out of balance. Differences should be 0.1V or less.

 

0.5V is huge in NiMH, could be the difference between 75% and 50% State of Charge, even considering that you are measuring 2 modules. I point this out because it indicates that your used battery may not be as good/fresh as claimed. The system main relay is responsible for the click that you hear. You can try switching things out, since you still have them, yes? Otherwise, I highly recommend a trip to Taylor Automotive.

 

You know, I may have misspoke. On Honda and Gen II Toyota, the sense wires connect to the battery ECU. On Gen I, it looks like the wires are integrated, no way to unhook and backprobe.

 

Okay, if the sense wires connect to a plug, then unplug it and test each one of those pins relative to the overall HV battery negative. You will need to have the interlock installed to test all of them. Look for each pin to be different from the rest by 15V. Take high voltage safety precautions as you will be probing +300V towards the end.

 

I had the sense wires problem reported here.

IMHO, it is safer to dismantle the sense wires harness from the terminals and unplug it from the Battery ECU then do the measurements. You need to ohm it out all the 20 wires for continuity and also across each other for open circuit. FYI, some of the KOH leak into my orange plug and cause corrosion to one of the connectors. Some of it also leak into the Battery ECU socket. Although I managed to bypass the socket and soldered the sense wires directly onto the PCB, the Battery ECU eventually burnt one year later.

Vincent