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Error P0A80, P3019, Exploding Battery, Hybrid Automotive

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Earthcub, Sep 10, 2017.

  1. Earthcub

    Earthcub Junior Member

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    Hi All:
    I've been through a whirlwind of stuff with my hybrid battery. I started getting the P0A80 code and deduced a module failure. Rather than simply replace the module, I decided to try the Hybrid Automotive Prolong Deluxe Reconditioning Discharge and Charge system package. I ran this a couple of times on the hybrid battery. I had difficulties with the system because the voltages would not discharge to the selections on the discharger. Also, although the charger is supposed to charge and balance all 28 modules in the hybrid battery, the system never does indicate "when" this actually finishes and Hybrid Automotive doesn't exactly know either. I ran the entire protocol twice but concluded with the P3019 error code coming up. So, I tore the battery apart and replaced the bad module. I did not do it's pair as it's charge appeared to be on par with the rest of the modules. I cleared the errors codes and got the system to not report any disfunction so I took it for a drive. I got the mph up to 40 and heard a really loud pop, followed by a second pop 5 seconds later. I turned and looked and saw smoke coming from the battery. Lucky I was right near my house and pulled back in the driveway. I tore the battery apart again and discovered that two completely different modules had exploded. Does anyone have an idea about what may have caused this to happen? I checked my work. Everything was put back together correctly. There were no shorts or loose contacts. I did not clean the bars or screws but I will do that now if I decide to just try to replace those two modules, but that would only affect resistance. When I checked the voltages of the modules after the explosion, one of the modules that exploded was down to like 6.4 I think, but the other was still at 7.5. ???

    TIA
     
  2. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Welcome to Prius Chat (y).

    How many miles on your Prius? How long did you wait after the last cycle prior to running the car? What was the last discharge voltage target you used? What was the final charge voltage?

    I'm sure @jeff652 will also be along to assist;).

    Keep us posted (y).
     
  3. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    What did you use to tighten the nuts on the bus bars? Any specific torque?

    The exploding module usually means they overheated. But if you went for a short drive, it shouldn't have gotten a chance to even get warm.
     
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  4. Earthcub

    Earthcub Junior Member

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    Thanks for the response guys.

    146k. I unhooked the charger about 20 before running and test driving the car. The last discharge voltage was 189v. Final charge voltage was 234v.
    It's one of the issues I have with Prolong discharge. The first discharge selection is supposed to be 134v but it never goes that low. I didn't do a complete 3 cycles of the discharge/charge because I'd already done that twice. I was only concerned with brining the new battery into balance with the others.

    I did not use a specific torque on the bus bars. I did them by hand. I did consider this to be an overheating problem because it happened when I was going 40mph. There was no problem before that. I was noticing that the car wasn't accelerating properly which is why I opened it up a little because I was trying to determine what the symptoms actually were. I was also waiting to see if the dash lights were going to indicate the throwing of an error code to help diagnose.
     
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  5. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The discharger probably did discharge to 134v, but it has a "bounce" when it's completed. Unless you're standing there looking at the discharge, you won't see it go down to 134v. The 189v is the bounce voltage. The discharge cycle takes about 5 hours from a completely charged battery.

    On the charge cycle, it should have been charged about 20 hours to get back to about 240v. How long was your charge cycle?

    As for the torque on the nuts, it should be tighten to 48 inch pounds.
     
  6. Earthcub

    Earthcub Junior Member

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    The first time I ran the entire discharge/charge protocol to see if it would restore the bad module, I never saw that charge get higher than 236v and I was checking. I ran it for 26 hours, checking over and over to see what it was doing. I exchanged a number of emails with the Hybrid Automotive team about it and they gave me a number of reasons for this, none of which were satisfactory. So, I tried doing the entire protocol over again to see if something would change. It didn't. I was watching the discharge values and never saw a "bounce" like you describe. At least the system beeps when it's complete with the discharge. The charge... I would just let run for at least 24 hours because there's no way to determine if it's done. One thing I did continually notice is that when you let the charger run for 24 hours or more, it does peak out at a value and then that value starts to degrade. They say that 24 hours should be the maximum amount of time that you have to run the system. Once my charges decreased to the low 230's I would just stop it. I never saw it reach 240v. My most recent charge ran for 24 hours.
     
  7. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I think 236v is pretty close, not all the battery packs will reach 240v. You cannot fix a bad module, no matter how you charge/discharge the pack.

    I'm still not sure how your modules exploded, only thing I can think of is the terminal nuts were too loose....but that's just a guess.
     
  8. Earthcub

    Earthcub Junior Member

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    I can properly clean the bars and nuts and reassemble with new modules and proper torque if you think it's worth a try. I really don't have the money for a new hybrid battery unless I tried to pick one out of a yard somewhere close by. The last charge cycle peaked out at 234v but the car didn't seem to find that a problem. I would assume that the car would take care of charging the system to its fullest once I'm driving it again.
     
  9. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    If you have the time, let the battery pack sit for 7 days and then take another voltage reading. The bad modules would self discharge and won't be in line with the rest of the pack. It would also be beneficial to do a load test of all the modules too. Make sure they are good before you put the pack together.

    I don't see anything wrong with your method of charging/discharging. It's really a pretty straight forward easy process. I would give it another go. One thing that is important is that you buy modules from a reliable source. There are many bad sellers out there that are selling bad modules and that'll just bring you back to step 1 again if you end up with a bad replacement module.

    You might want to replace the modules on both sides of the exploded modules. I had an exploded module before and those modules next to them will fail within a very short period of time. It's best to replace them now.

    When your modules exploded, did you have the battery cooling fan connected properly? Or did you drive it without the fan connected?
     
    #9 JC91006, Sep 11, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2017
  10. Earthcub

    Earthcub Junior Member

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    I can let it sit for a week. It's already out of the car and on the table right now. The car's already been out of commission for 3 weeks. 1 more won't kill me. So, I'll need to replace 6 modules then is what you're thinking? I could rig up a load tester. I just ruined a voltmeter cord accidentally today so I could create an inline light tester with some alligator clips and the meter.
     
  11. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    You could end up replacing more than 6 modules. You'll know after the week is up and the self discharges take effect. Keep us posted.
     
  12. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    The Prolong manual may state otherwise; but I waited a couple of hours (or longer) before 'readying' with a fully charged hv battery.. even then I put the car in neutral, that way when the ICE first kicks on in 10 seconds it isn't actually charging the hv battery. I also turned on the AC to bleed down some of that 100% charge before putting it in 'D'rive and stretching the tires.
     
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  13. MTL_hihy

    MTL_hihy Active Member

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    Couple things......

    1) When you do the charging you want to do it when the weather is as cool as possible
    2) Vehicle should sit overnight before driving to ensure any heat from grid charging is gone
    3) Buss bar nuts should be torqued properly (too much, they snap off.....too little, arcing or high resistance)
    4) If you have the battery apart, load test all the modules before you put them back in service (including replacements)

    I suspect loose buss bar nuts may have caused your issue (affects voltage read in that block) which could cause the ECU to overcharge the modules in service.
     
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  14. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    If the modules originally had a short in them, there is nothing that the HA charger/Discharger could do to save the modules.

    If you could have watched the battery voltages live while driving the car (via Torque Pro app in conjunction with an ELM 327 Bluetooth OBDII device running on a cheap android phone/tablet) then you might have been able to see how bad the modules were. The shorted or very damaged modules would have stuck out like a sore thumb.

    As you noted, unloaded/resting voltage doesn't really tell the full story about the modules health.

    Since you will have a rebuilt pack you will want to get some tool(s) that can show you what stuff looks like live while driving the car.
    Especially module/block voltages. The combo I mentioned will cost you less than $30

    The good news is once you get some reasonably good modules in there you can use your HA charger to periodically balance things out. Since there is no way the random modules you buy will be matched to the existing (old/failing/crappy) modules periodically using the HA charger will help mask the inherent differences between modules.
     
    #14 ericbecky, Sep 11, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2017
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  15. Earthcub

    Earthcub Junior Member

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    That's a great idea. $15. Done.
     
  16. Earthcub

    Earthcub Junior Member

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    I actually waited until the next day to drive it so it sat for at least 9-10 hours. I'll try the AC next time. I probably idled it for 5 minus. I'll extend that too.
     
  17. Earthcub

    Earthcub Junior Member

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    I never pulled the entire buss assembly apart. I only released the nuts and buss bars on modules 10-13 to release #11. It was 21 and 24 that exploded, so torque wasn't a factor. I'm truly mystified about why those modules blew and that no error codes were thrown. It's as if some regulator malfunctioned. Maybe implementing ericbecky's suggestion with give me more data next time.
     
  18. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    You possibly damaged the modules when you didn't remove all the bus bars, caused a leak in 21 and 24......boom? Maybe
     
  19. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    I believe anyone who has replaced a module MUST monitor their block voltages.

    It will help you visualize how well the modules are playing together.

    If there starts to be too much variance between them, then you know it's time to use the HA charger.
     
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  20. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

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    I suspect it could have being a build up of excess pressure due to increased temperature rise.
    The likely culprits could be, a malfunctioning blower, clogged blower channel ways, or the pressure valves weren't releasing the internal pressures of the battery modules concerned.