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EV Battery clicking on start

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Jmc15john, Dec 26, 2017.

  1. Jmc15john

    Jmc15john Junior Member

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    Good day all. I had a module un my main battery fail about a week ago. Read in the forums here and figured I would try and replace the single module before buying a new battery pack.

    Anyways, got it out tested all the batteries and replaced the one cell that was at 6v with a good one.

    Put it back in, hooked things back up and the Prius’s dash would start but the engine would not, I could only shift to neutral. I took the first compartment off, see pic, and removed the little connector between the two main orange leads that leave the battery pack. With this disconnected it starts up and I here the battery click 2-3 times then everything works. Red triangle is gone & I drove it around the neighborhood for a few minutes without any issues. I checked and the orange interlock peice is click in correctly.

    I rewatched some videos and I am pretty sure the connector I unhooked is supposed to go were I put it, but when its hooks up it won’t start. Any suggestions?
     

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  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    does that connector hold the leads in place? if so, it may be causing a mechanical issue when pressure is applied.
     
  3. Jmc15john

    Jmc15john Junior Member

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    No, its a pretty flimsy peice of metal. It looks like its supposed to close a circuit or help something stay grounded.
     
  4. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    .
     
    #4 edthefox5, Dec 26, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2017
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  5. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Hmmm. The picture looks right other than having the clamp (NOT a connector) swung out of position. (See the picture detail below for the proper position. It's from Hybrid Automotive's cable installation instructions.)
    Screen Shot 2017-12-26 at 7.33.49 PM.jpg
    Could it be that something you didn't see was shorting one of the cables to the frame and moving that clamp dislodged it?

    I would try first making sure the orange safety disconnect is removed and then putting the clamp back in place. Then check resistance to the car's body from each terminal after first verifying that there is no voltage on those terminals. Check for voltage between them and also between each one and the car body to be absolutely sure. Also, make sure the terminal nuts are properly tightened. If they are loose, bad stuff happens.

    That's what I would do. Given what has already happened, in your case, I recommend having someone who understands the system do that. As @edthefox5 said, that's some nasty voltage you're fiddling with. As an industrial electrician, I've seen it do some pretty spectacular and destructive stuff.
     
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  6. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Yeah your right jerry at first glance it looked like he was shorting the inside conductor to ground but just looks like the outer shield which needs to be commoned to the car is a little cock eyed. My bad..

    Just looks like the outer shield is not in the slot like your picture shows. Maybe the car throws a ground fault if that shield is not grounded to the car properly.

    I deleted my post so not to confuse the OP. Thank you.
     
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  7. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    It would probably help a lot to know what DTC the car is throwing. It's pretty good at telling you with what its not happy.

    Are there not supposed to be nuts on that bracket tying it down?
     
    #7 dolj, Dec 26, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2017
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  8. Jmc15john

    Jmc15john Junior Member

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    Thanks for the tips everyone. Currently its not throwing any DTC’s it just clicks 3 times when I power it on, clamp disconnected. When I power it on with the clamp connected the engine doesnt start but no DTC’s there either.

    Dolj, there are nuts that tie the bracket down when you put the outer shielding over top of all the cables you see in my pic.

    I will take a look at it again in the morning when I get some light.
     
  9. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

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    You mean, you just throw in that module in there, without going throysone discchy/recharge cycle?

    Well, let's see how it fizzles out with time.

    I hope you don't get the triangle of death, after finally getting the car to start with the connector in place.

    Would be q hell going back in there.
     
  10. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    I thought the same when I first saw it. Then I got to looking and realized there was no way to move those cables. So I went and got Jeff's picture.

    @Jmc15john, those clicks you hear are the contacts in relays connecting the traction battery to the car when you hit the start button. It's supposed to do that. No clicks, no driving.
     
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  11. Jmc15john

    Jmc15john Junior Member

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    Thanks for the help Jerrymildred. It's possibly I've just never heard those clicks before, & with the seat & cover(s) not over-top the battery, it may be more muffled once I put everything back in it's place.


    Dxta, I also did recharge one module that was at 7.65 so all the modules where within .1 volts of each other. Got rid of the bad module @ 6.6v. Everything was from 7.75-7.85 when I reassembled the pack.
     
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  12. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    That's close, but an actual grid charger will do a far better job of balancing. And it's about a thousand times easier. And you can do it on a regular basis so you're not playing whack-a-mole for the rest of the time you own the car. No battery lasts forever, but the grid charger allows it to live as long as it can.
     
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  13. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

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    That's exactly what I meant to tell em.
     
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  14. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Yep. Just seconding your motion and hoping to make sure he gets the picture. (y)
     
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  15. Jmc15john

    Jmc15john Junior Member

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    Is there a Grid Charger you'd recommend? Saw some stuff on ProLong Grid Chargers that look pretty good. How often would you normally need to discharge / charge on an older Prius (2007). First time I've had to work on my battery, car's at 285,000 miles.
     
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  16. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    I use the Prolong setup and share it with an owner of a 2007:).

    From hybrid automotive you should do a top end balance every 3 months and a reconditioning process every 6 months;).

    But once the harness is installed, this process is easy and requires very little babysitting :).

    Go bulbless (y).
     
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  17. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

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    I think its the one you saw up there, that most PC guys over here use. But just in case you can't afford it, there are hobby chargers on eBay, you could buy. But that would take some time to complete those cycles, because you'd have to do them individually (modules I mean).
     
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  18. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    What @Raytheeagle said. (y)
    I bought a Prolong before it even had a patent. If you get the automatic discharge model, it costs more but it's much much easier than monitoring and changing lightbulbs to control the amperage. It's still a several day process, but the battery stays in the car and you just connect the cable after you get that installed on your first session.
     
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  19. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Then you are not grid charging, are you. He already has a hobby charger, which is why we are pointing out the advantages of grid charging.

    If you don't have the cash, but have the skills, you can build your own grid charger. if you don't have the cash nor the skills then you're stuck between a rock and a hard place.
     
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  20. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

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    Yeah, exactly, not grid charging. Using the hobby chargers, would achieve same result, but its going to take much longer, and he's got to have the pack out of the car.