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Everything went out at once??

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Logan Cesareo, Mar 22, 2020.

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  1. Logan Cesareo

    Logan Cesareo New Member

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    I’m right at 200k miles on my prius. I haven’t had any problems as of late. I was close to empty, pulled into the gas station and pumped. When I got back in, I had a number of issues as follows:
    • Right away I noticed the speedometer/gas meter, etc up front wasn’t working, nor was it sending info to the touch screen.
    • Air Conditioning wasn’t working
    • Turn signals weren’t working
    • My third party backup camera was not responding to my third party stereo.
    • Seat belt, and reverse beeping was missing.
    • The little light on the power button is not there.
    Perhaps there are other issues and I just haven’t found them. What could cause all of this to go out at once?
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The comm networks would be my first suspect in a situation like that, and I might start by looking at the connections around the third-party equipment, Sometimes it's not that hard for a dodgy connection somewhere to impede message traffic on the network.
     
  3. Logan Cesareo

    Logan Cesareo New Member

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    Update: Driver window ONLY is also not rolling up or down. This is a 2005 model
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    check the 12v
     
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  5. Logan Cesareo

    Logan Cesareo New Member

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    It’s reading 11.6 in diag.. cheapest place to get a replacement? Autozone said $200. Is this normal? Is it hard to install?
     
  6. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    12v battery died, maybe you had the door open while pumping gas? Either way really sounds like low voltage / dying 12v battery.
     
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  7. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    11.6 = toast.

    Call Toyota. Theirs is almost certainly also $200 but it's better quality.

    They're expensive because they are an unusual type. Very easy to install.

    Some people have found some similar batteries for a lot less. They aren't quite correct and may require some creative adaptation and might not give perfect results... but you can save a lot of money. There are threads on this board with details.
     
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  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    you can try other auto parts, batteries plus and online. 200 is normal. some find as low as 140.

    installation is pesky, but simple enough. it's just pulling the back apart to get everything out of the way. be careful not to drop anything, it's a black hole. take your time and do it right.
     
  9. Logan Cesareo

    Logan Cesareo New Member

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    Toyota did two battery tests and told me it was good and he didn’t want me to go through the trouble if that wasn’t the problem.. was he ignorant or did he know what he was talking about? Could it be something else?
     
  10. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    For once, I think he's right on the money and knows exactly what he is talking about.
    Sure. Have you checked all the 12 V battery connections are clean and tight? The two terminals and the earth to the car body.

    You need to invest in a good automatic multi-stage AGM battery charger and use it now, immediately. Then use it every 2 to 4 weeks.
     
  11. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    I'm going with ignorant.

    According to the product brochure for that tester, the Midtronics MDX-P300 is capable of testing regular flooded lead acid batteries, AGM & gel cells.

    The receipt photos show that the tester was set for regular flooded lead acid during these tests.

    The Prius uses the AGM type, which runs a slightly higher voltage. This higher voltage is making the battery appear to be healthier than it really is.

    I'm sure the tech was just doing it the way he always does it, but if you go back and re-test with that Midtronic set to the appropriate mode you will get something closer to the truth.
     
    #11 Leadfoot J. McCoalroller, Mar 24, 2020
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2020
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  12. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    I doubt that in this case, it would make much difference. That battery is not that close to tipping over the edge.
     
  13. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat!!
    What were the retrieved OBD2 codes, and did you have to pay for the Toyota dealer to test your battery/vehicle?

    Just to clarify, the vehicle is currently running and there are no warning lights on the dash?
     
  14. Logan Cesareo

    Logan Cesareo New Member

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    Thank you for the welcome! I’ve used the site a lot, but never made an account because i could typically always find my answer.

    The dealership didn’t read any codes; they only checked the battery, and that was free. To run codes it would be a $110 flat fee.

    Yes, car is driving normally. Nothing on the dash. When starting the car, the check engine light is on for a second then goes away. Just no odometers, turn signals, A/C, etc.
     
  15. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Good, now that we have got through all the "Chicken Little" "replace your 12 V battery" posts out of the way, you might want to review ChapmanF's reply to your OP.

    As far as your 12 V goes, you do need to get that fully charged and then have a plan for keeping it in a fully charged condition. If you don't own a battery charger there is a nice one available from Harbor Freight for $39.99 that will fit the bill.

    One thing that seems a possiblitiy (and may contribute to Gateway Network issues) is that your combination meter (CM) maybe failing. If it turns out that it is failing, I would get that dealt with first and then see what shakes out after that. See combination meter repair - DIY for more info. (Read the first one or two pages of that thread then skip to page 10 and read the last 4 pages.)

    If you want to DIY, Matt @Texas Hybrid Batteries can help you out for $150. It is a good option over the dealer's $1000+ and two weeks out-of-action. You might want to consider spending a few more dollars to replace the light cluster also so you can retrofit a 2006-2009 CM (this will fix the 299,999 ODO limit). Again, talk to Matt about this.
     
    #15 dolj, Mar 25, 2020
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2020
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  16. Logan Cesareo

    Logan Cesareo New Member

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    How would the combination meter also be the reason the blinkers, a/c, etc all went out at once? Not saying you’re wrong, just don’t know how it works.
     
  17. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    agreed, not sure i have heard that before
     
  18. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Presumably, you have checked all fuses, especially the Dome fuse.

    It would not be beyond the realm of possibility that you have more than one issue going on concurrently.
     
  19. Logan Cesareo

    Logan Cesareo New Member

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    I checked the dome fuse because I know it controls the blinker etc. It wasn’t blown. Which others should I check?
     
  20. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    I'm presuming you have checked the fuse with an ohmmeter, don't just rely on visual inspection. While you have your multimeter out, check all the other fuses for good measure. Also, while you have each fuse out, flip to your voltmeter and check you have 12 V at the live side of each fuse.
     
    #20 dolj, Mar 29, 2020
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2020
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