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Excessive/Ghost Mileage after mechanic?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Johnsmith009, Mar 12, 2019.

  1. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    If the inner brake pad (one in contact with caliper piston) has beveled wear, and half of the inside face of rotor is rusty (from lack of contact with pad), that's clue number two, that they screwed it up. Proper orientation is shown in attachment I posted previously.

    See if you can be present when they disassemble it.
     
  2. Johnsmith009

    Johnsmith009 Member

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    Would such drastic effects be visible within a week of replacement?
     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Ah no, would take some months. Look for the inner pad to have an imprint from the spoke pattern on it's shim plate, with the spoke over the pin (that's on the backing plate), as opposed to one on either side. And the pin would likely be showing some bevelling, be a bit chewed up.

    This is the pin that causes the problem:

    upload_2019-3-15_19-10-22.png

    The piston, with it's 4-spoke pattern, presses against this, and the spokes should be on either side, straddling it. The pin is there to stop the piston rotating when you press the parking brake. It can be assembled mis-oriented from the get go, so a spoke is over the pin. Or if it's assembled proper orientation, but not well seated, it can ride up there when you apply the parking brake. And once it does, you're getting grossly uneven brake pressure, and constant drag.

    If everything's put together properly, you should be able to give the rear wheel a bit of a push and watch it rotate one or two rotations. If a good push yields 1/4 turn only, it's dragging.
     
  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Here's a video, the rear wheel spin on ours:

     
    #24 Mendel Leisk, Mar 16, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2019
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  5. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Gonna start giving @NutzAboutBolts a run for their money :p?

    Good visual and example of free spinning (y).
     
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  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    No no no, lol.
     
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  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    A drum brake wheel would spin easier still, almost no friction.

    If the 3rd gen rear (disk) brakes are misassembled, with a push like that it'll stop more or less as soon as you let go. And it's noticeably stiff to turn.
     
  8. Johnsmith009

    Johnsmith009 Member

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    Using yours as a comparison, I've identified there's almost certainly a problem with the rear left brake assembly. Spins stiffly.
    Rear right spins more freely, (not as much as yours), but there's also an atrocious grinding sound that isn't audible when driving/braking, just when the wheel is up in the air.

    Two things worth noting about effort:
    A) I used both hands and even a starting pullback in comparison to your one hand,
    B) I'm sore from the gym yesterday so it probably wasn't that strong :(
    I think these two facts cancel each other out :D

    Grinding sound is at the end of the video, along with my fantastic cinematography and camera angles /s

    Taking it to the mechanic in an hour with this information. Any last-minute thoughts?
     
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  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah I agree. Good video, you really know your stuff.

    Print out that repair manual PDF for the brakes, especially the rear caliper piston orientation. For your mechanic.
     
    #29 Mendel Leisk, Mar 18, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2019
  10. Johnsmith009

    Johnsmith009 Member

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    No, trust me, I don't know my stuff xD
    He's said that the caliper on the rear left isnt in the best condition, not seized, but it's not anything to warrant a replacement. The right caliper was the one that was replaced, so that's the reason it's spinning more freely.
    The scraping noise was apparently rusted backplating that was rubbing up against... Something. I don't remember.
    He said that the mechanic cut/bent it back since it's pliable, and since they're "mostly dust guards" (??) It's not anything serious.

    He mentioned I should get my front brakes checked at my next service (which at this point is 4,000km) because they were quite hot when I came in last time, but the tech didn't see anything overt, so unlikely.

    The brakes were dissembled, checked, and reassembled, though I couldn't be present for it nor would it have helped. Not much of a clue on what's what, and I'm sure the hybrid techs wouldn't appreciate a clueless 20yo showing them a pdf on how to do their job anyway.

    He said there's not much in the way of brakes, nor would it be causing that much of an increase. He recommended fuel system cleaner, which I don't think will help.

    Any other probable causes? I've noticed it's also struggling a bit more lately, not sure if that was always the case. Any basic engine diagnostics I can do without tools or a garage?

    I could probably take off my tire for a closer look at the brakes for a second opinion. Just need to know where to look.

    A reminder of the primary symptom I'd like to diagnose for anyone joining:
    The second ICE turns on, it spikes to ~17L/100km, and doesn't go down to 5-6 until I reach a consistent speed.
    I need to press down the accelerator further than before as well.


    https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/480682139881570306/557275439845081089/DSC_0182.jpg
     
    #30 Johnsmith009, Mar 18, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2019
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Is this a dealership?

    Yeah, the left rear looks to have too much drag, and the one thing I can think of is the caliper piston misalignment. It must be reassemble with piston oriented like an "X":

    [​IMG]

    And then, the brakes should be pumped multiple times, to get the piston well seated, then the battery reconnected (good to do at the outset), then a short, easy on the brakes test drive, and only then apply/release the parking brake several times, raise the rear, and verify they are spinning near-freely.
     
  12. Johnsmith009

    Johnsmith009 Member

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    Update:
    Had a thought. I drove a few km exclusively in EV, and as I suspected despite doing 15km/h, engine spiked to 15L/100km. Came to a full stop, let my foot off the brake and let it coast at 5km/h.
    10L/100km.

    Seems something's wrong with my engine. Hope I haven't messed it up with all my driving in this state.

    So, what should I check? Can I monitor anything through ODB2?
     
  13. Johnsmith009

    Johnsmith009 Member

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    Yes, it's a dealership.

    As I said though unfortunately I couldn't be present for the brake maintenance.

    Burlington toyota - بحث Google
     
  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Did a better video, if it helps:

     
  15. Johnsmith009

    Johnsmith009 Member

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    That's alright, as I've posted above I don't think it's brakes anymore. Not mainly, anyway.
    Any engine diagnostics you can think of?
     
  16. Johnsmith009

    Johnsmith009 Member

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    Update, I switched to Torque and noticed that on engine activation, load increased to around 90%. RPMs below 2000, which is apparently normal. So what gives? Should load be that high on activation? It also only seems to decrease to about 80% when its reached top of its acceleration (50-60km/h), and only decreases to 50% when braking down a hill. Is that normal?
     
  17. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i've never heard anyone discuss load before. maybe you should check the specs
     
  18. Johnsmith009

    Johnsmith009 Member

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    Specs?
    Also granted, it's on an app (Torque Lite) for odb readers made for generic cars, not exclusively hybrids like Hybrid Assistant.
    Guess that's a dead end then.

    Should I start a new thread, given the change in information?
     
  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I would stick with this, one-stop shopping.
     
  20. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    how many km on her? what is the cars history? has it had all regular scheduled maintenance?