exhaust leak at the gasket

How expensive is the gasket?

 

Aren't they like 10 bucks? Just a cheap fiber donut

 

That’s what I was thinking too....

 

Yes, and the repair is not as simple as just replacing the gasket. The studs may be rusted and could snap. I had this done this past Sept by buying all OEM parts and bringing it down to Midas Muffler to repair as I did not have the time. I have my receipt somewhere and could look it up if you'd like.

 

Please look it up and pay the parts. I'd like to know. Thanks

 

Are there any independent muffler shops anymore?

I don't see any problem with aftermarket gaskets from companies like Walker Muffler.

I just checked Auto Zone, the doughnut gasket is $17.99, that's crazy.

 

Sounding like 100 could be a deal, even if you had to supply the higher quality(?) oem gasket yourself. Will see what Priusyippe comes up with, you could be making a run to the border.

Might also shop around, bet its the slow season up there and even mechanics need to put wood on the fire.

Is it too noisy for you, or it wont pass inspection?

Exhaust Pipe Gasket - Toyota (17451-21060) | Camelback Toyota

• Manufacturer: Toyota
• Part Number: 17451-21060
• Part: Exhaust Pipe Gasket
• Replaces: 17451-21040

OEM goes for around $38.74. Olathe was a lttle more.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2007,prius,1.5l+l4+electric/gas,1434449,exhaust+&+emission,pipe+flange+gasket+/+seal,5836

RA has the Walker #31379 @ $11.72 (++ of course)

https://www.autozone.com/gaskets/exhaust-flange-gasket?filterByKeyWord=exhaust+gasket&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false&make=Toyota&model=Prius&year=2006

AZ has the same Walker #31379 for $25.89 with free ground shipping if you spend 35.

 

If @Priusyipee doesn't add something and you can't find a less expensive install, maybe the $100 shop will take off the cost of the generic part if you bring in an OEM part. Or tell them your concerns about the generic/walker not fitting or lasting and see what they say.

Could also DIY and save $60, give or take.

 

Ok. Found the receipt. They did not break down the labor costs for the job. I had an alignment done as well. Parts are as follows: the manifold Part Number: 17141-21120 ($131.66) and the manifold gasket Part Number: 17173-21020 ($13.82), the manifold cover Part Number: 17167-21091 ($87.64) which had totally rotted away, insulator Part Number: 17168-21030 ($21.24), the exhaust pipe gasket Part Number: 17451-21060 ($35.55), and the exhaust bolts and springs Walker after market - ebay and manifold studs - locally sourced. Labor with tax came to 252.00. Parts were sourced from Conicelli Toyota and eBay.

Not cheap overall but the problem was fixed correctly the first time. You should have seen the parts that came off the car. Manifold gasket was blown in 2 places. The manifold itself was a mess. Glad I replaced with new. Cars up in my neck of the woods take a beating with all the salt on the roads. Metal parts disintegrate rather quickly. Heat shields only last about 5 years so when they fall off, they don't get replaced...

 

I am having the exact same problem with my 2010 Prius. So far the dealership didn't mention this as a possibility and said it was the catalytic converter and an oil leak. Another mechanic found another couple loose connections in the exhaust, which didn't fix the problem. They could find no other possibility so we bit the bullet and had them replace the catalytic converter with an after market part, which made no difference. I am wondering if you were able to fix your problem, and if so, exactly what did you have replaced. I love this car and want to drive it to 300K, but I can't have my family sucking in exhaust fumes every time we take off from a red light!

 

Having the same problem with a 05 prius. took it down to my friend's shop and put it up on the hoist. obvious when this doughnut needs to be replaced as there's black fumes on the doughnut. I don't have much but it's clear where the leaks is coming from. If I fix it myself I'll have to get a magnetic induction heater as well as have a couple extra extra long drill bits on hand when I do it. Otherwise the exhaust manifold is going to have to come out to drill out the studs on the header. They are rusted on real good and will snap right off before long.

Car is in bad enough shape with rust starting on the body that I may consider trading it in before I fix this. Just rolled over 252,252 yesterday and one side of quarter panel is rusted through, area about 3"x6" on a white car and other side is starting to rust through.

Exhaust will fall off of header in another 50-100K miles I expect.

 

How can you trade in a 13 year old car with 250k miles? It's only worth $1500. Probably nothing to a dealer

 

My 06' at 40,000 needed one, the shop charged 79$ for the donut plus labor, and it was better than OEM, they pointed out why so be careful of the part, 100$ is a deal, then the other end went, at 60,000, the shop, non Toyota replaced the tailpipe with stainless, guaranteed for the life, it was a reputable shop.

 

Curious which (donut) brand was better than OEM.

If you could also help with a part number that would be great.

Thank you for sharing!!

 

I just did both gaskets and the rear muffler section on the '07 in late June. The front bolts were rusted to unrecognizable and the donut close to being completely disintegrated. However, I didn't go straight to the grinder but instead torched the bolts to cherry red and was able to tappy-tap-tap a 13 mm socket onto what was once 14mm bolt heads. To my amazement, they turned right out. The rear bolts accepted the 14 and turned out without heat.

My opinion here is that oem gaskets are the way to go if mating to oem pipe. Experience with several aftermarket exhaust brands is that gaskets can be pretty brand specific, although I haven't tried any mix and match with gen 2 Prius. Unfortunately, have done plenty of aftermarket exhaust work on 3 Camry's from 2 different generations and and our current '05 Sienna. Using oem replacement spec from Walker, Bosal and Eastern has yielded acceptable (barely) results that last 4 or 5 years in what must be one of the worst road salt regions on the planet. Generally, fit is marginal with some coercing necessary and gaskets appear to be stamped garbage as compared to oem. I've never worked with high performance aftermarket exhaust and am only comparing oem to aftermarket oem replacement.

Check ebay for the salvage yard in Rancho Corodva. They have tons of salt free looking used exhaust with generally only surface oxidation from a salt-free part of the world... You may find a manifold cheap enough to make it worth keeping your car in the game.

 

Ha, eating crow here, I see Napa gets 6.79$ for it, I'm guessing the large number was labor, anyway


https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/EXT31360

 

I used to work at a tire shop for about 6 months. Business went to pot and it was sold. New owner is a mechanic, I've made friends with him and visit him regularly. He told me that I needed an induction heater to heat up the bolts so I could get them loose. They are still 14mm but the shafts are very very rusted. After hearing your story, sounds like I could fix this myself without it being a disaster. I wonder how hard it would be to get a torch back there on a lift? If a person had a pinpoint torch or a brazing??? head on the torch it should be small enough not to cause any other problems. It seemed to me that the access back there was horrible from the bottom as well.

I have a torch at home and car ramps so could get that to work too, wonder how you did it.

Thanks!

 

Absolutely. I did this (and do all exhaust work) from my back on the garage floor. No creeper, just a big piece of cardboard laid down, rear of the car on jack stands, front on ramps. Bernzomatic Surefire/Premium torch head, nothing fancy, but decent enough to offer a good range of adjustable flame and an on/off trigger so as not to have to screw around with a flint striker or lighter while laying crammed under the car. You'll figure out your angles and how much flame to dial as you go, so as not to hit anything that might burn with "over spray". Work on one at a time and you'll be fine.