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Finding a short in a Gen 1

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Graham Hopkins, Dec 16, 2013.

  1. Graham Hopkins

    Graham Hopkins New Member

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    On a Gen 1, 2003 prius, dome 15 amp fuse # 17, which controls audio system, multi info disp, interion light, trunk light, power window system (which still works), and wireless remote control system has blown and continues to blow when replaced, with the car off. Any advise on the most likely suspecs?
     
  2. jdcollins5

    jdcollins5 Senior Member

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    Have you tried removing the dome light bulb and see if the fuse does not blow? Others have reported the bulb itself as the culprit.
     
  3. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    You'll just have to try to disconnect the components/bulbs one at a time until the fuse stops blowing. Buy a bunch of fuses.
     
  4. kutcht1

    kutcht1 Member

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    To do this type of electrical fuse fix, I made a circuit breaker so i did not keep busting through fuses. Radio shack 15 amp breaker with a button soldered with two wires with the ends crimped into spades. Put the two wires with spades into where the fuse would go. The button on the breaker pops out when it blows. Just push it in and start again. Works like a GFCI sort of in your house.
    TomK
     
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  5. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    Radio Shack part numbers and links would be appreciated. :)

    SCH-I535
     
  6. jdcollins5

    jdcollins5 Senior Member

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    Good move with the circuit breaker. Keep us posted when you find the culprit.
     
  7. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    He's not the OP though. ;)

    SCH-I535
     
  8. jdcollins5

    jdcollins5 Senior Member

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    Thanks, did not pick up on that.
     
  9. kutcht1

    kutcht1 Member

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    I looked a bit and can't seem to find it. I have mine in front of me and it is a 20A. Manufacturer is T.S.D. P/N 131-0004. I'll keep looking.
    TomK
     
  10. kutcht1

    kutcht1 Member

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  11. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    A headlamp bulb wired across where the fuse should be in the same manner as the circuit breaker. will work much better. While the fault is present the bulb will stay lit at full brightness, when the fault is cleared the bulb will go out or go dim depending on the load. This will give you a clear indication of the state of the problem while you are working. Any intermittent fault will cause the bulb to flash as the fault is cleared and returned.
    The maximum current that can be drawn under fault conditions using this method is about 5 amps "the loading of the bulb" no matter what you are doing.
    With a circuit breaker the maximum current will be between 10% and 25% over the rating of the breaker. With a fuse the current to blow the fuse can be up to 200% over that of the fuse rating.

    John (Britprius)
     
  12. kutcht1

    kutcht1 Member

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    I also have that John. And your info is correct. I used an old school headlamp since it had two metal prongs on the back of it. I built the circuit breaker simply since I had an issue where I needed to drive with it and the headlamp was so large. Just did not want to keep spending on the little fuses after blowing an entire box of them once.
    TomK