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FIRE! no start P3006 - P3016 - P3030 - parts & install ECU + Wire Harness to Traction Batt

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by lovemy02prius, Sep 1, 2014.

  1. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    C1259 is issued in the ABS system because the MG's cannot regen current into the HV battery so there is no regen braking.

    John (Britprius)
     
  2. lovemy02prius

    lovemy02prius Member

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    Above was w OBD1

    with OBD2 settings I get

    P0001 generic fuel volume regulator control circuit / open

    No srs dtc's are stored

    No oem enhanced DTCs are presently stored in the vehicles computer
     
  3. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    I believe P0001 is not a genuine Prius DTC code.

    John (Britprius)
     
  4. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Do you measure any voltage on the car side and the battery side of the HV relays in the battery with the car turned on.

    John (Britprius)
     
  5. lovemy02prius

    lovemy02prius Member

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  6. lovemy02prius

    lovemy02prius Member

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    Do you have a part # for the MINI VCI having a problem locating one
     
  7. lovemy02prius

    lovemy02prius Member

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    is this mini vci?? doesnt look like a code reader!
     
  8. lovemy02prius

    lovemy02prius Member

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    Chap:
    How about posting some pics of your reassembled battery (if you took any before putting the cover back on ... or if you have time to take the cover off again while waiting for a scan tool)? You could try to get good sharp pics of all the important connection points ... the cabling from modules 1 and 38 to the SMR on the front, from modules 19 and 20 to the safety plug/fuse assembly on the back, the reassembly of the safety plug assembly (one of the cable ends is just a blade that directly forms part of the safety assembly, right?), all the electrical connections to the ECU, etc. Tedious, but it might give you something to do if there's no scan tool right away, and maybe someone will spot something.

    Also you could get voltage readings:
    from module 1 (where the SMR cable attaches) to 19 (where the safety cable attaches), and

    from 20 (where the safety attaches) to 38 (where the SMR attaches)

    M: were opening the lid back up now (right in the car) we took the safety precautions.

    Im taking as many pics as possible will post shortly.

    were taking the readings at all the places chap mentioned
     
    #148 lovemy02prius, Sep 14, 2014
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2014
  9. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Yes. You need a laptop "preferably an old xp or vista" with it but this is basically what the dealer uses and is capable of all service work on the Prius and any Toyota. Page one of two battery data from my own gen2 below. nb.JPG

    John (Britprius)
     
  10. lovemy02prius

    lovemy02prius Member

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    Chap heres the results:

    with orange plug out:

    from + positive terminal of module 1 (smr cable) to the negative terminal of module 19 is 114 volts

    from the + positive terminal of module 20 to the negative terminal of module 38 is 106 volts

    from the + 1 module to the - 38 module is 60 volts

    with orange plug in +1 to - 38 is 221 volts

    took pics loading now

    the fuse is not blown, its good

    Heres the modules readings as of 430pm today:
    1 7.52
    2 6.25
    3 5.53
    4 5.43
    5 6.24
    6 6.85
    7 5.18
    8 7.41
    9 6.58
    10 6.31
    11 5.51
    12 4.48
    13 5.97
    14 5.98
    15 7.61
    16 7.39
    17 5.18
    18 5.04
    19 4.1
    20 3.764
    21 5.03
    22 4.79
    23 4.28
    24 3.851
    25 4.8
    26 7.22
    27 4.23
    28 7.27
    29 5.2
    30 4.76
    31 7.49
    32 4.021
    33 5.92
    34 7.51
    35 5.68
    36 5.32
    37 7.19
    38 7.72

    is 221 v enough juice to function properly????????????

    it seems like the juice is not getting to or through the silanoid, relays or resistors (located on the side of the ECU aka where the power should run through and go out to the car to run it...just a guess??)
    I'll take a pic of the three components where where they are at. You can clearly hear a loud clicking
    when the key is turned to the starting position.
     
    #150 lovemy02prius, Sep 14, 2014
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2014
  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Thanks, that's good information. The two halves are at least in the ballpark ... they add up to 220 volts, or just about 0.96 volts per cell on average. Nominal charge is 1.2 volts per cell, people usually stop a controlled discharge at 1.0 or 0.9 volts per cell, so this is a battery that is closer to discharged than charged, but it's in the right neighborhood.

    As for your 60 volt end-to-end measurement ... was that with the safety plug in, or the safety plug out?

    With the plug in, I would expect to see the total of the two halves, or 220 volts. With the plug out, I would expect to see zero, zip, nada. Sixty volts, I was not expecting to see.

    If that was plug out, I wonder whether a couple of the modules (at least one on each side of the safety) could have some traces of conductive gunk on them that reaches the metal case and so provides a (probably rather lousy) current path around the safety.

    -Chap
     
  12. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    If you connect the volt meter to the negative terminal of the battery and work your way along the battery with the positive probe the voltage should increase by about 7 volts at each step or 14 volts for each pair of modules. When the voltage stops and goes to zero or varies much more or less that's where the trouble is.

    John (Britprius)
     
  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Do you know offhand the impedance of the voltmeter you're using? Is it a digital sort, or an old swinging needle?

    I guess if it's a digital sort with a typical impedance around 10 MΩ, and the safety assembly and cables happen to have an impedance around 26 MΩ with the plug out, then it might come by a 60 volt reading honestly. That could be checked by undoing those two cables from the battery at the module 19 and 20 terminals, then seeing if that changed the end-to-end reading any.

    -Chap
     
  14. lovemy02prius

    lovemy02prius Member

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    John we get a total of 221 v is that not enough to perform normal and more important
    regardless of the having less voltage needed for the hv battery to perform correctly
    why are we not getting a reading of ANY VOLTAGE at the large orange cables that hook the HV Battery to the car??? Shouldn't we see sum total of the voltage there or what would prevent that? do we need to start the car
     
  15. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Are you getting 221 volts at the HV relays (battery side) and then 221 volts at the car side of the relays with it turned on?

    John (Britprius)
     
  16. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    If the orange safety plug is not in properly the lever needs to be slid after it is closed the relays will not pull in. Also if the battery is not charged enough, and I do not believe it is the engine will not turn over. The computers protect the battery from turning the engine when they get much below 40% charged.

    John (Britprius)
     
  17. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    If you look at the results from my battery you will see at the time of the results the battery was 55% charged and the average voltage of module pairs was 15.26 volts. Divide this by 12 the number of cells in two modules give 1.27 volts per cell so at 40% state of charge I would expect that voltage to have fallen to about 1.2 volts at which point the ECU would stop the car from discharging the battery further by whatever method required. This includes disconnecting the battery after a few start attempts. Preventing the battery from discharging further.

    John (Britprius)
     
  18. lovemy02prius

    lovemy02prius Member

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    Orange plug out 1-38 test 60v
    Orange plug in 1-38 test 221v.

    The cells are not below 40% they are at 221v

    Were using a Digital reader. Were using a fluke meter.

    Were not getting any voltage at the POWER CABLES shown on bottom of page 13 with black arrows.

    As for the car side of the relay wheres that exactlyplease send me a pic or link !!

    if your referring to one of the 3 modules you see next to the ECU (more towards the driverside. posting pics now) we dont know how to test them for voltage or remove them to test or replace theres no power on the car side at the POWER CABLES as I already mentioned above. Could it be one of those modules were we hear the clicking. ?????
     
  19. lovemy02prius

    lovemy02prius Member

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    #159 lovemy02prius, Sep 14, 2014
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2014
  20. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    This probably means that at least two modules have an electrolyte leak which is causing the 60V reading when the safety interlock is removed. That leak is conducting electricity to the metal traction battery case. This constitutes a safety hazard on top of the other issues your car has.

    The nominal voltage reading of 38 modules is 273.6V and a properly operating battery will measure 300V to 320V.

    The various modules need to show the same voltage to +/- 0.2V or so, or else the traction battery ECU will log a fault. That, plus the overall low voltage produced by the battery is probably why the system main relays are not activating to provide voltage to the cables running to the inverter.

    I had earlier posted in post #61 that your modules are dead and you need to replace them. This is a message that you may not want to hear. However, the voltage results that you posted in post #150 after charging the modules help to confirm that your modules cannot be restored to proper operation. So you can continue to waste time with those modules - or come up with Plan B.