First attempt at oil change on prius... stuck.

Make sure you are turning in the correct direction and don't be shy with the torque. If it's not budging get a longer handle on the wrench (a cheater bar or a breaker bar). It'll go. If you are not sure which way to turn, call someone who is. If you over-torque in the tightening direction you can strip the threads off the oil pan (don't ask me how I know this).

Counter-clockwise as you look directly at the plug is to loosen, clockwise is to tighten.

 

Yes, a deep socket will have more trouble getting the torque on that bolt. I would recomment a shallow socket, or even better would be a 14MM wrench which will apply direct torque to the bolt head without trying to wiggle off.

dave

 

If you think "L" is for Loosen, then what do you suppose "R" stand for?

 

Retry.

 

Have no idea how to wrench so you start on the oil pan plug. Can’t wait to see how the oil filter goes.

Take the car somewhere to get the oil changed. It will save you hundreds of dollars.

 

Oil drain plug has to be one of the simplest and easiest things requiring a wrench on a car. If that presents a problem, I agree 100%! Take it to some one who turned a wrench before.

As for oil filter, I bought an OF socket for around $8 at and it really makes things go more predictably. I must be getting older because in the old days I just did the filter by hand (wrench?! I don't need no stinking wrench!), but in my latter days I find spending $8 on a one show pony tool is perfectly fine if it saves me even a few seconds per use. It turns out that same socket fits an oil filter on my Harley Sportster, so bonus!

 

Retighten???

 

As a note for anyone who wonders what happened, the OP did get his oil change done and got somewhat upset at other posters. I (and probably others) reported some of his posts, and I see both his posts and a couple others have been removed. Thank you, mods.

To the OP: I'm glad you succeeded in changing your oil and I hope you are successful in all your future oil changes on this car. I'm sorry some members teased you, but please keep it civil, as we all should try to do.

 

It does seem a little insulting when the OP starts off by saying he is using the "Righty tighty, Lefty Loosey" rule and people still suggest he is turning the wrong way. I think he had a reason to be miffed, but I suppose he was just looking for positive reinforcement, and maybe this forum is the wrong place to find that.

 

I used to break loose drain bolts, caliper mounting bolts, transmission drain bolts, with a regular ratchet wrench, one with a handle that's 9~10" long at most. Sometimes with 12 point sockets.

Now I make sure to have 6 point sockets, various extensions, and use a ratchet that's about 18" long, with a swivel head. Much less drama.

I think also, if it's the first time, it's a double whammy: you're not sure how much force it's gonna take (and just maybe which direction...), and the last person to put the bolt on was probably a rushed pro, using a power tool of some sort.

 

Well, if you can get the drain bolt off, the filter comes off the same way...

Or maybe the best advice is try to budge/remove the filter first, before draining the oil, in case it is stuck...

 

Honda automotive oil filter socket is what I use on the filter, very heavy gauge, and a perfect fit. Works with Mazdas too. Mine is about 30 years old, bought it when the automotive filters were larger diameter, for a Honda motorcycle, but they've migrated that bike filter size to their cars now. I believe part number is currently:

07AAA-PLCA100

Description, say on Amazon, describe it as 65 mm; it's actually just over 64 mm.

Again, a long handled ratchet wrench makes it easy.

 

You are suggesting filter first, based on the assumption it will be the most difficult to remove, correct? I guess I could agree with that advice, but if either one can't be removed, it seems the car will be inoperable, without either contaminating a new filter with old oil, or contaminating new oil in the crankcase with old oil left in the filter. Either way, I'd be tempted to drive to a service station and have them drain the new oil I just put in and replace both oil and filter.

 

Wait what? You're saying to do that, if only the oil is changed, but not the filter?

A different persepective: Honda recommends to alternate: one time replace the oil and filter, the next time just the oil. Back and forth.

To drain and dispose of approx 4 qts of fresh oil, because you couldn't get the filter off, doesn't make sense to me. Also, the filter is higher than the sump: if you've just managed to change the oil, but are flummoxed by the filter, I would just get someone to change the filter.

But really: neither is chore is all that hard. The only reasonable reason either would be hard to remove is due to "pros" with power tools, and sooner or later you will have to get it off.

Ultimately, think we're just talking among ourselves? @pumpanddump's last posting was Wednesday of last week.

 

Well, the Toyota service instructions mostly note to crack the drain plug first, (oil filter being at the bottom of the engine. Other manufacturers with oil filter on top usually note to crack open the canister filters first so oil can drain out of there easier). I guess I should be more specific and say see if you can get the filter to budge, not necessarily completely remove it, which might be a messy endeavor with all the oil still inside the engine. If you can, then proceed to remove the drain plug.

Also, I don’t think it’s required to replace the old filter with new one if the drain plug is conversely stuck. Just replace the old one and drive to get help if necessary. Or more specifically check that both can be budged before proceeding to completely remove the plug and drain the oil...

 

The oil's mostly in the pan, below the oil filter.

No matter which order you do, drain bolt then filter removal, or vice versa, you will only get about a cup coming out of the filter.

Also, the oil will come ripping out once the drain bolt is removed, regardless of what else has been removed, or not.

 

I’ve been able to turn the drain bolt, without removing it. Only a teeny tiny bit seeps out before it becomes very loose, and yes it does gush out as soon as the bolt is completely out. There is plenty of thread to just see if you can actually turn it, to do that first to both filter and drain plug, so you know you won’t be stuck with one or the other. At most I’m guessing you’d turn either one attempting to budge it is 1/2 a turn. If trying one or the other, you can tighten it back so seepage stops, then try the other....

BTW, if it makes anyone who is stuck feel any better, I have read somewhere, I believe here on PC, that someone got his truck and tied it to a wrench to budge the filter canister loose, or was it breaker bar....