First Morning with a Blocked Grill

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Frank Hudon @ Feb 22 2007, 10:26 PM) [snapback]395020[/snapback]</div>

Funny, I don't think I've heard anyone ever claim installing the EBH was that easy. Usually they are long stories involving being unable to find the hole, the EBH not going in all the way, the plug not being easy to fit onto the EBH in a cramped space with no way to see what you're doing, etc. :lol: But to each their own I guess. Some people must get lucky every once in a while.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Silver Phoenix @ Feb 23 2007, 11:31 AM) [snapback]395360[/snapback]</div>

Or they just have more skill than I. I had a real struggle and two attempts before I got it right. The second attempt was easier and successful, but not what I'd call easy.

Dave M.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dmckinstry @ Feb 23 2007, 12:23 PM) [snapback]395417[/snapback]</div>

just 43 years of fixing all sorts of vehicles, from those with tracks to those on 2,3,4,6,8,10 and up to 18 wheels. Some things are more difficult than others but this block heater isn't very difficult in the big picture, for me at least. I've worked longer and harder and had more cuts and abrasions from changing the Hi Beam indicator bulb in a GM pickup truck.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Frank Hudon @ Feb 23 2007, 12:32 PM) [snapback]395434[/snapback]</div>

I think my biggest problem was that I followed the suggestion of putting the heat sink compound on the heater (rather than in the hole) the first time. I couldn't hold it well enough to get it in. I ran out of compound, which is why I had to make a later attempt. That wasn't the only difficulty, but is probably what prevented it from working the first try. And this was from above. I found I just didn't have enough room to install it from below.

Others had no difficulty from below.

Dave M.

 

43 years wrenching experience definitely had to help. as for me, i just have several years experience scraping my knuckles!

 

[attachmentid=6677]
This is my application of pipe insulation. Upper grill is 8 cut to fit black pieces. Lower grill is 2 stock 1/2" Frost King tubes fit over the front. Each tube secured with a twist tie. The middle one is open. Photo courtesy of Viktoriya Skakun. Great Success!!

 

Took your compiled advice and blocked her up. Very impressive results here in the frozen northeast. MPG jumped about 3. Planning on leaving the "Snow King" in place till spring.

Matches the Gray real nice too. Wife didn't notice it for over a week

 

Might Be Helpful During a Dust Storm

I was in Fort Worth yesterday with 50mph winds and the sky turning from blue to tan. Do you think blocking the radiator might have blocked some of the dust? I could taste it from inside the car.

Here are the pictures

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Delta Flyer @ Feb 25 2007, 05:24 PM) [snapback]396459[/snapback]</div>

be sure to clean you cabin filter after going thru that. I wash it in warm soapy water lay on paper towels to dry and spray with Lysol spray and replace it in the car.
Edit: you might want to look at the air filter for the ICE as well if you drove any distance it that for the little time it takes.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Delta Flyer @ Feb 25 2007, 10:24 PM) [snapback]396459[/snapback]</div>

Oh,

So that is where all the brown slush came from we had on Friday and Saturday! There was about 1 inch of brownish slush underneath the 3 inches of heavy amunition Minnesota/Wisconsin snow on my Prius this morning.

 

I have plotted my mpg for my weekday commute against temperature before and after the grill block modification. The blue points are without the block, the green are with just the upper grill blocked and the red points are with the upper and lower grills blocked.
Blocking the upper and lower grills has given a 4% improvement in fuel effeciency over my 7 mile urban commute (all mpg data relates to UK gallons).
[attachmentid=6710]

 

I too blocked my grill both top and bottom. Wayne , aka FireEngineer, visited my home, to install an EBH and I asked him about my grill blocks. He told me I did an excellent job of blocking the grills, only I missed the top one on the bottom set, lol. I never did put anything there, even after he told me, I tried to, but it was just too darn small of a fit and my license plate sort of gets in the way for proper insertion. Wayne told me not to be concerened about removing any of the grill blocks until I see outside ambient temps in the 50's or such.

Anyway, I recently purchased a ScanGauge II and have been monitoring my water temp. This past Friday, it was approx 36F outside. I noticed that when I was driving higher speeds above say 40mph or more, the water temp remained around 180-190 F. When I would start to slow down in speed, I noticed water temps that jumped to 207F briefly then to like 200F. There were a couple of times that the temp topped at 207F. Now, keep in mind, I live in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, so I do alot of mountain climbing/descending. There are some pretty decent ascends and descends on my normal commute to and from work.

I searched the forums and was not able to find an answer to my question. My question is, what is the water temp that you do NOT want to exceed with the grill blocks? Is anything below 200F ok? I just can't believe that I am hitting 200F with an outside temp of 36F, it must be the mountain climbing?

Also I read some monitoring the ICE temps, how are you doing that? Thru CanView? What is a good ICE temp and what temp should you avoid on the ICE? I can't see how u can monitor the engine temps with the ScanGauge II or can you?

 

the temp your monitoring with the scan gauge is the ICE temp. With CAN-View we get to monitor the inverter and the thermos temps as well. 212F is where the cooling fans come on or there abouts and you definatley don't want the ICE over about 230F The coolant mix that is in the car with the rad cap that is on it won't let the coolant boil before approx 245F. I sometimes get to 205F on a long hill that I climb everyday but it soon drops down to below 197F at the top. Normal is 87-92C which is 188F-197F

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(efusco @ Dec 20 2006, 11:16 AM) [snapback]364600[/snapback]</div>

efusco,

I know this is an old post but does the insulation make a big difference, seems an easy change to make if it does. Also how far down the front of the engine does it go and is it secured of is it just trapped into position.

I presume unlike grill blocking there is no chance of any overheating. so it can be left in all year.

Many Thanks.

 

Make sure the radiator fans are free to turn if you stuff the insulation down the front.

Wayne

 

I want to know what is the maximum tempreture for running the ICE continously, what maximum short time temperature is (5 minutes or less), and what is the best fuel efficiency tempretature. Place or climate has nothing to do with it, except altitude. What are the spec's? I have the scan thing and am blocking one bottom inlet with a pipe insulation piece. My ice temps are arround 184-197 F after warmup time. Outside temps are regularly above 90 F and sometimes at 100 F. What are the factory spec's? Thanks, Lanny

 

The cooling fans come on at 212F. Your temp range seems normal. The most efficient engine temp is somewhere in the upper 190's. Try blocking the upper two slits at the hood, that should increase your ICE temp a little without affecting your inverter temp.

Wayne

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(FireEngineer @ Jul 15 2007, 10:02 AM) [snapback]479057[/snapback]</div>

Has anyone thought of insulating the catalitic converter. It is my understanding that it must keep warm also.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bestmapman @ Jul 15 2007, 10:09 AM) [snapback]479089[/snapback]</div>

Very bad idea. If insulated it could get hot enough to destroy itself.