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Fisker . . . a poor shadow of a Volt?

Discussion in 'Prius, Hybrid, EV and Alt-Fuel News' started by bwilson4web, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. John H

    John H Senior Member

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    off-topic warning ... I have sent in a suggestion to fuelly to add "garage stats" that would reflect the balanced usage of multiple vehicles in a garage, like your 25% mini-van and 75% prius scenario. If you want to second my suggestion, maybe send them an email.

    From a recent response from fuelly, they are trying to figure out how to better support PHEVs on thier site, with some way to import or add and track "electric fueling".
     
  2. fotomoto

    fotomoto Senior Member

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    I thought that plugging in and, more importantly, remembering to plug in would be a PITA as I still forget with my phone and other things but so far it hasn't been an issue. I have the charger cord conveniently set up on the wall parallel to the charge door when I park and I have to walk right by it to enter the house. Having it on the rear right fender like the PIP would be a major inconvenience for me.
     
  3. John H

    John H Senior Member

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    I have to concur that filling up in my own garage or at the Whole Foods parking lot is a lot more pleasant than the gasoline station.

    I wonder if I can get the Hybrid Electric UPS delivery truck to deliver me a gallon of gasoline once a month to my front porch. If I don't need it I could give it to the neighbor with the Prius :)
     
  4. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Soon enough, the market will decide but I've been thinking about the question:

    How much battery is needed?​

    The problem has a number of constraints and it often comes down to personal preference . . . 'choose your poison':
    • No traction battery - a gas-only car
    • Too little battery - an auto-stop car
    • Engine augment battery - the Honda IMA or a heavy duty, belt-assisted
    • Hybrid battery - Ford/Toyota that augments engine and provides ~1 mile limited EV
    • Plug-In battery - GM/Toyota/Fisker with 10-40 mile limited EV range
    • EV - Leaf and others
    As a general rule, the range decreases with increased battery. Also, capital costs increase with battery. This is offset by use of less expensive, operational costs.

    But it turns out there are two statistical distributions that may provide insights:
    • Gausian - or bell curve, this is the likely, daily usage with some peak near the center of one's daily mileage. There is actually one for weekend and work-week but this gets a little complex to model.
    • Poisson - a weight curve that says there will be little probability of a short trip that increases to a peak and then tails off.
    So I'm looking at our 2003 and 2010 Prius performance and notice the fuel efficiency for the first 2-4 miles is pretty bad. These are mostly due to engine warm-up cost, trying to generate power from a cold engine. But once warmed up, both cars are in the 55-60 MPG range.

    For my purposes, I want only enough extra battery power to handle the 2-4 mile warm-up. In effect, I want the engine to idle but generate NO traction power until all EV traction power has been used. The goal is to have a 'step' function where the vehicle MPG remains in the 55-60 MPG range regardless of the trip difference.

    Now the rule of thumb is you need ~250 Whr per mile. So a 2-4 mile range is only 0.5-1 KWhr of battery capacity. This is very close to the 20%, reserve capacity of both the NHW11 and ZVW30 cars. Some informal tests have shown that if the starting traction battery SOC is above 60%, the car will reduce (but not mnimize enough) the ICE power when demanded.

    What is also interesting is that a roof of solar cells should in a normal day generate close to 250 Whr that could be stuffed in the traction battery. So rather than 'plug-in', the car becomes a solar-augment, 'plug-in'. Better still, such low power requirements can be easily handled by 120 VAC circuit without having to go to high power, charging systems.

    So what I'm thinking makes most sense is:
    • topping traction battery - taking the SOC from 60% to 80% when the car ICE temperature has fallen to 40C or below.
    Very little modifications would be needed for our existing Prius but the fleet and even the EPA numbers would be impressive while keeping the cost and operational impacts minimal.

    Bob Wilson
     
  5. austingreen

    austingreen Senior Member

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    Bob, an advanced lead acid battery is likely needed to run electric air conditioning and power steering efficiently. This adds efficiency to non hybrids from reducing parasitic losses. This can also be used to do auto stop. This in conjunction with a turbo charged engine (gasoline or diesel) gives most of the highway benefits of a hybrid if it is designed for efficiency.

    A hybrid battery is needed for improved city mileage. This is needed to store significant energy from regen brakes and aid initial acceleration. Whether it is assist like in the new gm's, or ima, or a full hybrid like the prius. The key here is a battery large enough to be able to handle the power from the re gen brakes. This is like a minimum of 0.9 kwh in lithium or 1.3 kwh in nimh for a prius sized car. Heavier cars need more power and thus higher capacity batteries.
    I must be missing something here. Range should not decrease with larger batteries it should increase. Cost increases with larger batteries, but government tax credits make this cost not high for consumers.


    If you mean trips, the government has compiled statistics, but YMMV. IIRC for the average american the percentage is fairly linear to 20 miles a day, hitting 45% of miles (2.25%/day-mile). After that it drops off as long trips have more of an impact with around 75% at 80 miles. As you add more miles there are shimming returns.

    There is a problem with how you set this up. The battery needs to provide enough power for your trip during warm up. I have a big hill and a short on ramp to a 65 mph highway, so even the 4.4kwh pack in the prius phv would turn on since its only 38 kw. The 7.5 kw pack in the energis provides 68 kw (90hp) which would be fine. There is also cost. 4 mile range would not be a good goal.


    Right, you need that SOC for hybrid mode, then additional. I would think 4 kwh would be the absolute minimum you would want. Future batteries may have higher usable SOC and/or max power draw.

    Very bad idea. You are paying for a large amount of solar cells that most days won't do a thing. This adds much more cost than the battery capacity. Many people can get away with charging the pack with 120 VAC.




    The reason SOC is not kept high is to leave room for regen braking. You are charging with gasoline, and will not get the power back:)
     
  6. Trollbait

    Trollbait It's a D&D thing

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    With a high efficiency engine that may not be enough distance while its just idling. High thermal efficiency, low fuel requirement to keep the engine spinning at min level, and thus less excess heat to warm things up. The Prius makes heavy use of the ICE at the start because that's the quickest way to heat it up.

    If you want to just reduce or eliminate that warm up period, a block heater and a high heating pad for the catalytic convertor is the simplist way to go. Maybe even heating pads for the battery.
     
  7. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Electronic accessories help but they tend to be on the margins of vehicle energy usage.

    Regenerative braking is an important part but my studies indicate the electric assist to ICE power is a major factor in down-sizing the ICE. I suspect this is why VW clung to the turbo as the answer to the Atkinson ICE efficiency. Yet our 1.5L and 1.8L engines continued to deliver performance of the next larger displacement engine.

    Acceleration tends to be fairly short term events measured in unit to just over 10 seconds. The power draw is high but short duration and having the engine stay in higher, efficiency power bands during the minutes and hours at cruise gives an advantage to the smaller displacement engine.

    Batteries do not have the energy density to compete with gasoline so the Leaf is a fairly short range vehicle. In comparison, the Volt too has a range challenge compared to the Prius.

    I tend to treat subsidies as a short-term effort that often expires. The original Prius subsidies are gone and the HOV advantage is gone. They help bootstrap but like airlines before deregulation, a transient.


    This variability in short range, 2-4 mile trips is where a small, plug-in makes sense. Longer EV range looks to be diminishing return on investment. The extreme case being the Leaf.

    In contrast, we live on ancient, river bottom, with typically less than a 10m altitude change. So both of us tend to think 'locally.'

    Solar solves the problem of 'no plug' that I believe is more common than not. For example, work and shop parking lots seldom have power outlets and my morning commute ends in early morning when the sun is rising.

    IMHO, regen requirements are somewhat reduced when starting from a parking place. As the car warms up, using the SOC capacity, the proposed change makes the battery headroom needed for regen SOC. I'm seeing only a 2-4% SOC change in flat-land, regen so a little travel, acceleration to 35-40 mph in less than 1/4 mile, easily provides what is needed for regen.

    Bob Wilson
     
  8. Trollbait

    Trollbait It's a D&D thing

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    But is it worth the cost, and not just the monetary one? There is weight and being able to mount them in a way not to hinder aerodynamics. The hit to fuel economy for warm up only has a major impact on short trips. This is not the norm for most drivers. For the manufacturer, should feature needs to add little cost to be considered. Adding a plug and charger to a normal Prius to top off the battery is probably too much.
     
  9. John H

    John H Senior Member

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    I wonder if an engineer has considered a solar heat pipe to pre-heat the ICE and catalytic converter during the day.
     
  10. fotomoto

    fotomoto Senior Member

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    Both Nissan and GM advise to park in the shade if possible to help keep the batteries cool; not sure about the PIP.
     
  11. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Whether or not solar power for the traction battery makes economic sense is important. But I see it as a tradeoff between more traction battery capacity with a plug-in 'leash' versus unleashed, solar power to address the most expensive part of each trip. Which gives more return on investment:
    • 1 kWhr - traction battery capacity on a plug-in leash
    • 0.25 kWhr - solar cell capacity to topper charge traction battery
    BTW, solar power generated during a trip can be dumped into the traction battery too. Only when the traction battery is warm/hot should any charging be suppressed or curtailed without cooling.

    Bob Wilson
     
  12. austingreen

    austingreen Senior Member

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    Bob its a gimmick, like tailfins on those old cars. They didn't really make the aerodynamics much better.
    Say you have decided to add a plug, and set the software to retain an extra 1 kwh for the next restart. Today's pricing that extra battry costs about $600, maybe charging it every day for 10 years is another $500. It takes up volume, but today's solar panels also add weight. Now if you park in a garage when you get home that solar panel will only work on days when its sunny enough and it has enough time. Its not going to put much energy back in on a trip to the store. My guess is about $2K to manufacture those panels into the roof and add inverters to charge the battery. Much more cost effective to put the solar panels on your roof and the bigger battery in the car.
    Toyota was having trouble even doing it when parked. You likely need to add an expensive power management module to work while the battery is being used. The current phv allows you to save charge for the next start up or for later use at the end of your drive.

    Now I suppose you are thinking of not adding the charger and plug just the solar panel. The current batter has a 40% SOC and 1.3kwh giving about 0.5kwh usable. But you would not want to run it all down to 0. Say we are at 0.25kwh usable and the solar panel charged it 0.25 kwh. That is good, but an unwarm system limits ev speed to 10 mph, not vary usefull. What you want is at least 1 kwh usable in the system. In nimh that is 2.5 kwh and will take up as much volume as the phv battery. In Lithium we may be able to have a SOC of 60% meaning a 1.7 kwh battery. I doubt that plus the solar panel saves much manufacturing cost compared to the phv. The prius phv pack must add 2.7 kwh plus charging system which likely cost toyota about $2500 not much more than adding those solar panels. You as the customer can offset 10 miles of gasoline with electricity for every charge. It seems like an easier sell. Costs of both batteries and solar pannels are going down.
     
  13. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    I'm thinking first quantify the effect which is much easier now that we have cooler weather:
    • alternate force charge in evening - this leaves the traction battery at either 60% or 80% when I turn it off at night. I'll monitor the temperature to minimize the heat risk.
    • morning commute - measure initial SOC and then record engine and vehicle fuel consumption on a standard commute: shortest distance to cross-town route using "N" when coasting at 25 mph.
    I tried to do this back in July but the 100F temps led to a thermal alarm. Now that temperatures are about 20-30F cooler, I should not have the same risk. It also increases the cold-soak effect in the morning commute.

    As for the offline, battery management system, I have some sketches for a modular system. My plan is to test it with my eBike mod using NHW11 modules from my traction battery upgrade.

    As for solar panels, I'm watching the market too and it seems to have some softening. I've got foam and fiberglass material and this could be a good project to get some 'hands on.'

    Bob Wilson
     
  14. Trollbait

    Trollbait It's a D&D thing

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    Also keep in mind that solar panels mounted on a car aren't in the ideal position for generating power. So you'll need to add excess capacity in order to get enough charge when the sunlight is available.
     
  15. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Thanks,
    An experiment, we'll find out how well they work out AFTER I verify using the built-in but unused, 20% traction battery capacity works.

    Right now, I'm thinking just the roof of the NHW11 as this may also provide some relief from the cabin heat in the summer when parked in the sun. I might beef up the cabin air exhaust system to help mitigate cabin heat. But back to your point on optimum solar panel configuration, the technical challenge will be the 'shunt' diodes/electronics.

    Shunt diodes provide a current path so a single cell in the shade won't current limit the series array. Given Schottky's are in the 0.6V range, my thinking is every 6-7V string, 8-10 cells, gets one, parallel shunt diode. My rough sizing measurements suggests I should be able to make five strings. I'll use the existing antenna mount to run the wiring through the roof. To keep (I**2)R losses down, I'll series all the strings and use a boost regulator to jump it up to traction battery voltage.

    Open questions are whether I'll provide a trickle charger to the AUX and/or consider an AUX elimination circuit. Taking out that heavy, lead-acid battery sure has an appeal.

    Bob Wilson
     
  16. austingreen

    austingreen Senior Member

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    Be sure to show us photos. How much are you going to hurt aerodynamics by putting the panels on the roof? I'm curious how much power a day you are able to charge.

    How are you going to take out the lead acid battery. Don't you need it as a buffer? How will you start the car in the dark?
     
  17. Trollbait

    Trollbait It's a D&D thing

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    I just remembered this.
    Solar-Powered Toyota Prius Project : TreeHugger
    Unfortunately, his site seems to have gone out.
     
  18. austingreen

    austingreen Senior Member

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    I'm sure once he built his system and tested it, the gains were nowhere close to what he expected. No reason to keep a website up for a failed project. The article said he did not charge the car with the engine off, which is a strange engineering choice.

    On topic

    The fisker solar roof provides 120W to power accessories while driving, or charge the battery when stopped and in the light. Justin Bieber has one with a solar roof.

    Or specs of an old prius solar roof
    APRS Solar PHEV
    prices have gone down but -

     
  19. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Actually Bob B. is quite active in the Prius Technical Stuff community. His was the original, solar panel roofed Prius. However, he made a poor choice on battery management and suffered a 'set back.'

    I'll send him a PM and see if he ever got any metrics for the effect on the warm-up costs.

    Bob Wilson
     
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  20. austingreen

    austingreen Senior Member

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    +1
    Steve Lapp was the guy that seemed to have the bad idea of installing the panels. Bob B in the APRS piece above seemed to have the right idea but tried to do it too cheaply, although $3300 isn't exactly cheap. He may have some good ideas on how to do it right and what it should cost today. I'm sure you need an additional battery, and some management electronics along with the solar panels.