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Fog Lights Installed and Working 4 Non Touring

Discussion in 'Gen 4 Prius Accessories and Modifications' started by lohikaarme, Oct 22, 2016.

  1. lohikaarme

    lohikaarme Troll

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    First let me give credit to sttkailua for starting down this path. While I was considering posting in the original thread 2016 OEM Fog Lights Arrived! | Page 3 | PriusChat
    I decided that I may diverge a bit here so I might as well start a new thread.


    I bought the fogs from Toyota Online Parts

    price list.JPG


    My first concern was figuring out the wiring but Toyota made it so easy. There are three wires- one for the fog, one for the drl and one for ground. Figuring out the color code was simply looking at the PCB




    1.JPG


    Green: Fog
    Black: Ground
    Blue: DRL

    Determining the pins on the connector now become extremely easy

    2.JPG




    Before I installed these, I wanted to make sure passing 12V though the circuit worked.


    DRL success

    3.JPG


    Fog success


    4.JPG

    There was a lot of talk about the upper screw and how to screw it in. I spent a few hours on this actually. The first attempt was to attach the screw to the screw driver and approach from the top



    5.JPG


    I could get my arm in from the top and start screwing in but I did not make much progress because the screw driver had a hard time fitting and I was doing it blind


    6.JPG

    Finally I was done with screwing around and popped the bumper cover. Anyone who has any experience with Toyota knows that with some unbolting the sides pull out. I did not have to remove the entire bumper cover, just enough to pop the sides. Plenty of room, all screws 100% secure

    7.JPG




    8.JPG

    Fogs in

    9.JPG



    Now about the wiring. The bad news: the head light circuit is active for regular DRL use. They are just running dimmer than usual. This means that you cannot tap the DRL circuit because an 87a relay will not allow the switch. In light of this I decided to give myself full control via a on-off-on switch from the cabin. The wiring will be in such a way to allow the fogs on, the drls on or both off- and that power will be cut when the car is off.


    I mounted the switch where the tire pressure switch used to be in the Gen 3. It is out of the way and I don’t might drilling into the plastic. As I had no free buttons anywhere I had to go this route.


    10.JPG 11.JPG

    Now how did I get the wires into the engine bay? This will be a little hard to explain but just like when installing fogs on the gen3, you have to pierce a grommet. There is one up under the dash that transfers some wires. Here is a slightly blurred picture with the hanger I was about to shove through

    12.JPG

    Surprise! Hanger in the engine bay


    13.JPG


    Secure some wires to that hanger and pull them in


    14.JPG

    The wires going through the grommet (it is two walled so pushing the hanger through you will feel a pop then a pop




    15.JPG

    The wiring to the switch. I will attach a wiring diagram that will explain why there are 3 power wires and no grounds and how I did this



    16.JPG


    Then I put her all back together, the red wire hanging will be explained, the other two went into the engine bay


    17.JPG


    Here is the wiring diagram for how I ran this
    18.jpg


    Success! Kind of-

    I ordered the right connectors and female pins but for the time being I had to wire up a very fragile connection. Two of the connectors are touching accidentally so it is powering both the fog and the drl at the same time in both switch positions. Turning the car off or moving the switch to the center position kill everything as it should. When I get the right connectors in, the system will work 100% and not activate both…. This is just a side effect of things shifted, not the concept. Now that I know it works, I am going to leave the circuit off until the rest of the parts arrive.


    19.JPG



    Total cost of harness:

    $3 switch
    $30 14 awg wire (I bought black and red 100ft each might be overkill)
    $5 fuse splitter
    $14 ebay for the three connectors and 12 female pins (just incase)

    Misc electrical take and some wire ends I jimmy rigged the system with.
     
    #1 lohikaarme, Oct 22, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2016
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  2. lohikaarme

    lohikaarme Troll

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    I believe the official Toyota part number for the terminal used in the connector is:
    82998-12440

    The connector is
    90980-10942

    These are currently unconfirmed part numbers but I will have them in hand within a few days to validate
     
  3. sttkailua

    sttkailua Active Member

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    lohi,

    You da man! Great job on write up with photos!
    Good info on my next phase, which is wiring.

    I was set back a little by Toyota online by sending me the wrong harness.
    I did find a small short screw driver, and put some glue on the screw.(photo)
    I think I can install from top, but good to know I can pop the bumper panel, if
    I get stuck.

    I did buy a 3 setting harness from blinglights(BL300W or similar). It is made to function two lights from
    one switch. Which is what the Prius DRL/fogs are, and yours is.
    $40 for harness only. I sent Nick an email if they would sell just the harness. You don't have to buy
    the kit for $100, and toss the lights.

    Are you able to have DRL and fogs on at the same time with your switch?
    I think the Touring DRL go on with the power on, and then you can switch on the fogs.
    Both on at same time? A Touring owner can confirm me.

    I may just tap into a fuse to turn on the DRL, and just use the switch to turn on the fogs.
    Need to think about this on how I want the lights to work.

    Good info on wiring through the firewall. That was one of my concerns, as
    not sure where to poke through. I got my 4 pin connector from Toyota parts online.
    Part number is in photo.
    Mine just came in today(photo), so just waiting on harness.

    I will finish up, post my experiences, and hope this is all the parts I need.

    To be continued. . . .

    stt
     

    Attached Files:

    #3 sttkailua, Oct 23, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2016
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  4. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    No relays? It's better to get power for your foglights and DRLs directly from the battery using relays. That way, the wires running through the firewall only need to carry low current, in the milliamp range, not amps, and are used to trigger the relays only.
     
  5. lohikaarme

    lohikaarme Troll

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    the problem is if you use power from the battery directly then you need to activate it by a relay or else it will always be activated even when the car is off- dead battery. If you use a relay you need something under control to pull it in. The automatic headlights could have done the trick, however, its the same circuit used for the headlight drls so actually the circuit is always activated.

    So this means that you would need to pull the coil of the relay in with some power so that the relay could then flow the power from the battery to the fogs and drls. And now you get into the same situation: what power would you be in control from inside the cabin that can pull in the coil to allow the battery power to flow? There is nothing, if you tap a power source and send it through the firewall than it is the same as what I just did.

    I ended up tapping the power outlet aka cig lighter feed. I figure that it is designed in such a way to expect someone to be using it at all times when the car is on- many people plug in a radar detector, phone, gps, etc. for the constant draw. Sending it through the firewall? eh. no choice here
     
  6. lohikaarme

    lohikaarme Troll

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    If you need to pop the side out, the only hidden screw is where the bumper cover contacts the quater panel. There is a screw that connects the two of them behing the plastic wheel well cover. If you take the clips off the wheel well you can pull the cover away to get to the screw.
     
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  7. randomwalk101

    randomwalk101 DYI'er

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    You can power the fogs directly from the battery. It's better this way. Use a relay and use the headlight wire to trigger the relay to turn on the fogs.
     
  8. lohikaarme

    lohikaarme Troll

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    The fogs will be activated at all times becausenthe headlight circuit is activated at all times when the car is on. This is because the standard drl without fog is a reduced headlight. This would lock you into fog at night and day and while they will power off when the car is off they do not solve the drl control unless you also wire them to the headlight at which point they both will light up at all times with no real control except if you turn the headlights/drl off directly from the stalk or turn the car off. Is that really better?
     
  9. randomwalk101

    randomwalk101 DYI'er

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    It's either you don't know electrical or you don't understand what I am trying to say.
    A circuit is designed to handle a certain amount of load. If you add load to it, it may overload that circuit, generate excessive heat and may burn. Although in this case the fogs are leds so it may not draw that much current but so it may be okay. It we never know.
    You can use a relay to set up as I described previously to prevent this. You can add a switch to that circuit to turn the fogs off manually to override the relay. The headlight circuit is only a trigger to turn on the fogs when the car is on (car on, headlight on). This setup draws very little current from the headlight circuit.
     
  10. lohikaarme

    lohikaarme Troll

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  11. sttkailua

    sttkailua Active Member

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    what is the fuse number required for the OEM Touring fogs?

    Because there is no OEM stand alone harness for Prius (that I know of), for models
    not equipped with the fog lights,
    one would have to use a harness from another manufacturer, or build one from scratch.

    At a minimum, there should be the proper rated fuse in the circuit to prevent frying your wiring.

    Between having the lights on constantly, there should be at a minimum, a switch, relay or fuse.
    If your fry your circuit, oops, re-do. Something wrong here!

    We are all trying to get a functional light in our blank space.
    There are many different ways to do this based on our knowledge, expertise with the
    tools we have available.

    If don't know something, I ask the PC community for assistance.

    stt
     
  12. lohikaarme

    lohikaarme Troll

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    well it appears that the back of the fog\drl housing is printed with 12V 5 Watt. 10 Watt would be about 1 amp I do believe.
    In my setup taking power downstream of the power outlet, it is projected by the power outlet fuse, though no fuse in the system is 1 amp. Worst case, fogs blow up but car circuit is protected.
     
  13. sttkailua

    sttkailua Active Member

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    lohi,

    I did use your method, as I would have been cussing a lot as the screw fell in unaccessible location.
    It is easier with directions from some who went through the process.

    For those who reach this point, 3 push pins in wheel well, 1 ea 10 mm screw joining quarter panel to bumper
    panel, 2 ea 10mm screws connecting splash pan to bumper.

    Photo 1 close up of silver screw at top of light fixture, photo 2 is wider view showing open bumper panel.
    Be careful not to force and over bend the bumper panel! Push/pull down bumper panel to release
    snap tabs under headlight.

    I am now 100% secure, waiting for harness.

    stt
     

    Attached Files:

  14. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    You can use the same setup as you have now, with 12v coming from the power outlet in the cabin and the 3 way switch. However, run these wires to the coils of the relays used to switch power from the battery to the fogs and DRLs, not the fogs and DRLs like you are currently doing. That way, you are taking power from the battery.

    The wires coming from the cabin, and through the firewall are only carrying low current for the relay coils, milliamps not amps, big difference and much, much safer IMO.

    Also, since the wires are carrying low milliamp currents, you can use much thinner gauge wire (18 or 20 AWG) which is easier to thread through the firewall, and less expensive.
     
    #14 xliderider, Oct 23, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2016
  15. lohikaarme

    lohikaarme Troll

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    Which were you thinking or is there a third setup?

    1
    Run two 87a relays. One would have the fogs wired to the normally opened and the other would have the drls wired to the normally opened? flipping the switch in the cabin would pull in the relay of one of the corresponding 87a relays which would then carry the voltage from the battery to the fog or drl

    2
    Or is your idea to have the drls wired to the normally closed and the fogs wired to the normally opened. When the cabin switch is at rest, the DRLs would be on. When the cabin switch is set to the fog then the fog would activate and the DRLs would turn off. In this set you could do this with a regular on-off switch and a single signal wire going into the engine bay but it would be mandatory drl or fog at all time.
     
  16. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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  17. lohikaarme

    lohikaarme Troll

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    Here is the enhanced wiring diagram to include two 87a relays. The NC contact will not be used. The NO contact on one will be split and sent to the fogs. The NO contact on the other will be split and sent to the DRLs. The 12V + from the battery will be run through a 10amp fuse and split to go to both commons of the 87a relays. When either relay pulls in, it will transfer the battery power from the common pin to the NO pin activating either both fogs or both drls. The coils of the relays both - will be joined and sent to a ground point (not the negative battery terminal). The + for the coil will be driven off the 12v power outlet tap running through the on-off-on switch in the cabin.

    The relays I ordered are mini 87a automotive relays:
    Beuler 5083PWMR 12 VDC Micro 5-Pin Relay SPDT

    Does this make sense? Are there flaws in the logic?

    revised wire diagram.jpg
     
  18. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    The diagram looks fine. :)
     
  19. lohikaarme

    lohikaarme Troll

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    great! thanks for your input on this. The confusion came in when I wasn't visualizing!
     
  20. priusfan500

    priusfan500 Member

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    I had posted this information on an earlier forum about Fog Lights, but I think it got missed.

    I came across a Japanese website selling fog light kits for Gen4 Prius made of OEM Toyota parts..A photo shows the kit consisting of left and right fog lamps, a new stalk switch, and a relay. Only issue with ordering it, is that its for the Japanese market, and the stalk is on the other side of the steering wheel (right hand drive).

    I found what appears to be the correct part for the stalk switch on Toyota of Dallas website (it is the headlight stalk found in the vehicles equipped with fog lights)..see photo below. I'm posting this for anyone looking to buy the fog lights from the dealer, as it appears there are other parts needed to make them work.

    Screen Shot 2016-10-24 at 10.37.09 AM.png Screen Shot 2016-10-24 at 10.37.29 AM.png