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Force Charge or Not Before Storage?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by davecook89t, Oct 16, 2016.

  1. davecook89t

    davecook89t Senior Member

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    >
    >dolj said:
    >You'd be better off discharging the HV battery completely and letting sit, rather than leaving it on a charger all >winter. Then charge it back up when you get back. This is the accepted method of long term storage of NiMH >batteries.

    I'm starting a new thread on this because I guess no one saw my earlier comment on another thread and I really would like to know the answer.

    I'm curious about this because I have read several posts on this forum saying that it would be wise to force charge the HV battery to 7 bars or so before letting it sit for a period of a few weeks or more. That's what I did before I left on a recent trip that kept me away for about 2 months. Prior to leaving, I had logged the voltages of the individual blocks using Torque Pro and found that, although 3 or 4 blocks consistently had the lowest voltage at different SOC and a different 3 or 4 consistently had the highest voltage, the difference between the high and low was usually only about .1 Volts, which I did not think was sufficiently large to be concerned.

    When I came back about a week ago, I believe I still had 6 bars showing on the MFD before the ICE started, but Torque Pro was showing that the 1st and 14th block were each about .4 Volts below the others, and that remained true as the battery was either charged by the ICE or allowed to discharge with the ICE off and the AC on. This does seem to be a cause for concern. I've since had the ICE running a few more times (but have been unable to take the car out on the road, having removed the plates from it, I'm working on getting it registered in NY), and Torque is now showing that that the difference between the high and low voltages is generally around .2 Volts, but Blocks 1 and 14 are still always the lowest ones.

    I've had no lights showing up on the dash yet, but I'm bracing myself for that eventuality. With 216k on the original battery, I had not expected it to last much longer anyway, but the thought that it was in surprisingly good shape when I bought the car about 4 months ago and is now in less than good shape because I left it sitting for so long is depressing.

    I know it's not good to leave these cars idle for long, but if I have to do it again what is the best approach, charge the battery up to about 70% or let it go down to 40%?
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    a few weeks? i have left mine in the garage for 5 weeks almost every winter for 12 years without even thinking about battery charge. is that a problem?(n)
     
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  3. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    I guess that depends. Sounds like you already have enough to worry about and don't need to worry about your battery health.

    Just keep an eye out for the coal rollin diesels at the cross walks as those should be a bigger worry in more ways than one;).
     
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  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    For the hybrid battery I'd say no. For the 12 volt battery, I'd hook up a smart charger, just leave it connected.

    Our 2010 was built in Aug 2009, we bought it (with about 10km on the odo) in Nov 2010, no problems. Well, with the hybrid battery, the 12 volt was dead as a doornail.
     
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i have yet to put a trickle charger on. my theory is that, if the 12v is healthy, 5 weeks in 40ish f degrees is no biggie. so far so good, it is always 12.4 or better when we get home. if i ever drained it accidentally, i would consider a smart charger.
     
  6. davecook89t

    davecook89t Senior Member

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    I did disconnect the 12V before I left. I'm hoping that one doesn't give me a problem for awhile. It's the first thing I replaced when I bought the car.
     
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  7. Kevin_Denver

    Kevin_Denver Active Member

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    At least on most RC forums, generally it's recommended to discharge NiMh batteries to between 1.1 and 1 volts per cell and then refrigerate them if stored for more than a couple of weeks, doing a charge and then discharge back to 1.1/1 every month or so. However in the case of the Prius, I'd be worried to store it down near 1 or 2 bars and then after two months of self-discharge find the car unable to start. However the batteries in the Prius don't necessarily behave exactly like RC batteries. I think if you have the equipment to take the cells down to 1 volt for storage you'll extend the battery life, however you'd need a precise way to discharge the battery and recharge it. Therefore unless I had that equipment, I'd probably walk a middle ground and store it with the battery with around 50-60% state of charge - 3 or 4 bars.

    Just as important for the car is the battery storage temperature. I'd do whatever I could to keep the temperature down in the car (e.g. sunshield/car cover if parked in sun, keep car in garage in summer, out of the garage in cold climates in the winter etc.).

    The thing that's probably most worrying for the Prius is the battery cells becoming unbalanced with each other, from cells having different self-discharge rates. If it's a regular thing over the life of the car, you can consider one of those battery balancers (I know hybrid automotive sells one for about $400). Watching the voltages as you've done will give you an idea when this is occurring.

    When the car comes out of storage, I'd take the battery charge up to as high as the Prius will let you on its first use.

    Otherwise, I'd just drive the car and accept the fact that the hybrid battery will fail at some point. Don't get hypochondriac about battery health!
     
  8. davecook89t

    davecook89t Senior Member

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    Thanks for the response. It sounds like there is no particular advantage, then, to being either at the high or low end of the normal range of SOC during storage for these cars. I had thought about getting the Hybrid Automotive balancer, but am not sure it would be worth it for me to spend that much to extend the life of the battery by only a few more months.
     
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    That's about on par with leaving it on a charger I think. Phantom charge is what does batteries in.

    When I replaced our 12 volt semi-preemptively, someone here suggested to keep the old one for backup. I charged it up and tucked it away in the garage. Checking its voltage months later, it's barely dropped.
     
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  10. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I've found the 12v batteries actually have a good lifetime to them. It probably will be good beyond 10 years. My 2008 OEM battery is still going strong. Key is to keep them charged up and not let them get weak.
     
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  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah I think it was you that suggested I hang onto the old one.
     
  12. wjtracy

    wjtracy Senior Member

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    I would like to have decent charge say most of the blue bars, but never really had to force charge. For the 12v on Gen2 I would turn off the SKS button under the steering column.

    What I see is rapid depletion if you just drive off when you get back from the trip, especially if you have A/C on. So what I like to do is turn the A/C off and let the car warm up about 3 -minutes before driving off. What happens in the warm-up cycle is the engine comes on after about 30-secs, it runs a couple minutes, giving batt some charge, and then it goes off. Now go!
     
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  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    That's common advice for any car too. Honda says something like:

    Just start it and go, except when the car has been sitting a few days. Then let it idle a minute or two.
     
  14. davecook89t

    davecook89t Senior Member

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    >Just start it and go, except when the car has been sitting a few days. Then let it idle a minute or two.[/QUOTE]

    When I started this thread a couple of months ago, I expected to be replacing my HV battery shortly, but I'm happy to report the original battery is still going strong about 4,000 miles later (at least so far as I can tell).

    When I started it up in October after a few months of sitting idle, Torque Pro was telling me that Blocks 1 and 14 had a charge about .4 Volts lower than the other blocks. I had taken the plates off the car while it was sitting in the backyard, and did not drive it for another couple of weeks, but had let the ICE warm up and go through several charge/discharge cycles. I found that although the difference between the high and low voltages decreased from about .4V to .2V, Blocks 1 and 14 were still always at the lowest charge. However, after taking a few longer trips in the car, the difference between high and low returned to about .1V or a little more and Blocks 1 and 14 are not always the lowest, so it appears the Battery Management System in the car was eventually able to essentially equalize the charge over all the different blocks.

    Since then I have not always had occasion to drive the car every day, and I've found that even if it sits for as little as a week, I see the same pattern. Blocks 1 and 14 are as much as .4V below the others, but actually taking the car on the road begins to balance everything out. Certainly the car was designed to be driven every day, but even if it's not, the battery ECU seems to manage the charge in the best possible way to preserve longevity.
     
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  15. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    I rebuild batteries and have dealt with thousands of individual modules. When modules are stored at a very low SOC 10 to 20% will drop in to the 6.XX volt range. This is caused by one cell dropping out while while the other five remain above 1.2 volts each. These modules can not be recovered. I have never seen this happen with modules stored at a high SOC. So, I would recommend doing a forced charge before storing a car for an extended period.

    Modules #1 and #28 just behave differently than the rest of the pack. I used to think this had to do with cooling. Can any EE's site a reason for being the end modules of a series string having a different effect?

    I think what you are seeing is modules 1 and 28 have reduced capacity and high self discharge. The car has no way to "balance" cells. The battery is just one big series string. The same current flows in and out of all the cells. When driven the voltage of 1 and 28 will catch up with the rest because they have less capacity to absorb the current than the stronger cells. When the car sits high self discharge then brings the voltage of 1 and 28 back down.

    Brad
     
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