Frayed High Voltage Wire

Did you pinch the cable with a jack? One conductor (maybe more) appears bare. If you are intent of trying to encapsulate it in place, instead of petroleum-based FlexSeal, you might try the type of liquid rubber used to coat tool handles, which would not require tape wrapping.

 

Honestly you need a new cable. Maybe a junkyard part. That much damage will eventually corrode. It will also cause a hybrid failure for high voltage leakage.

If I had to attempt a temporary repair, I would probably go with a direct burial ac voltage spice kit with a gel inside the housing or a resin molded version.

3M 85-14 - Multi-Mold Power Cable Splice Kit - Max. Cable O.D. 7/8"

 

2010 Prius (profile)? Or v (forum)?

Three conductors, so it's one of the stubby little MG cables (MG1 or MG2). Could just replace and call it a day. If it were the two-conductor frame wire going all down under the car, that would be a more annoying job.

I've been partial to Plasti-Dip for electrical repairs, and its dielectric strength is 8,000 volts per mil thickness. But it's petroleum-soluble, so engine-compartment applications might not be the best.

 

I think I’ve noticed that same conduit on our 2010. It’s quite low, picks up spray from the wheels, and ours was starting to corrode the wire mesh sheathing. No damage though. I painted it with boiled linseed oil.

is that exposed high voltage wire on the lowest cable? If the wire is not abraded, I think you could reseal it, maybe just lots of electrical tape and finish with that sealant. Do pull the high voltage disconnect switch.

 

Yeah, it's the slice into the orange insulation that's the bad news here.

 

I would pull the transaxle if necessary.

Details

• 80 Shore D hardness
• Has 16-minute gel time at 73 °F (23 °C)
• Useful for splicing solid dielectric and oil-filled cables up to 8 kV
• Withstands a temperature range of 32 to 266 °F (0 to 130 °C)
• Elongates 4% longer than its original size for easy insulation or wrapping
• Elongates 4% longer than its original size for easy insulation or wrapping
• Withstands a voltage rating of 8 kV or less (for splicing solid dielectric and oil-filled cables)

3M™ Scotchcast™ Electrical Insulating Resin 4N, with nozzel and guard bag, is a 2 part, insulating and encapsulating, epoxy based, liquid resin that generates its own heat to cure. Compatible with solid/synthetic cable insulations and jackets, this resin makes an excellent insulator and sealer for cable splicing.

3M™ Scotchcast™ Electrical Resin 4N A is a multi purpose moisture sealing resin that remains stable, even at elevated temperatures. The resin bonds to itself and to nearly all modern cable jackets. It allows you to splice solid dielectric and oil filled cables up to 8 kV and to jacket high voltage splices. This resin is used in 82 H, 82 B1, 85 14CP and 90 B1 Series splice kits. ASTM Approved and RoHS 2011/65/EU Compliant‎.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b00039969/

 

The 3M™ Scotchcast™ Electrical Resin 4N A linked above might be enough followed by some self fusing silicon tape. Basically you are trying to "pot" (encapsulate) the connection with the resin.

 

Looking at the length of wire available in the damaged area, I don't know how you would successfully perform a splice.

Personally, based on your discussion about access to the fasteners and the infrequency of "coding out", I'd be much more likely to clean the area as well as possible, make sure there's plenty of gap between the "hot" wires and the shield, do some minor repair to the damaged insulation, do some insulation of the damaged area, and then encapsulate that entire area to lock it all in place (as mentioned, "pot it") and to keep moisture out. You could likely fabricate some type of formwork around that entire area and just turn it into a block of rubber (or whatever material is chosen to pot it). Would likely last for the life of the vehicle.