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From o2 sensor to engine replacement in 10 days?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by FantasticalMagicOne, Dec 29, 2018.

  1. FantasticalMagicOne

    FantasticalMagicOne Active Member

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    They did and I had him call the dealership. However, isn't it possible for the upstream sensor to be wrong and cause the engine to run lean? Downstream, if I have this correct, only monitors the cats performance. Could it (upstream) not be off just enough to cause a drivability problem, but not enough to set a code?

    In which case, there would be no warranty on the work as that sensor was after market.

    That's why I'm curious as to whether or not something is just not connected right.

    I don't believe the downstream sensor has a collar around it, but the upstream definitely does. I will definitely look into it. That socket is the reason I ended up at the dealership in the first place.

    If it does turn out to be the upstream causing my issues, then I've no problem purchasing another one. But I'm hesitant to allow the dealership to take care of this.

    Yes, they confused an oxygen sensor repair with an engine replacement.
     
  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Though you may already have a game plan, I would start by plucking at the low hanging fruit first (in relation to time/money, be it mine/yours or someone else's).. earlier in this thread one of our esteemed members mentioned cleaning the MAF sensor as a potential known solution : From o2 sensor to engine replacement in 10 days? | PriusChat

    Follow one of the many threads online (some links below), or search for a newer/better 'how to' thread (or video if needed) :

    Toyota Prius: How to Clean the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Senor - PriusDIY.com
    Cleaning MAF Sensor | PriusChat

    Buy the twin pack of MAF/Manifold cleaner ($8), or a larger can of MAF cleaner (unless someone already has some) :

    Example of a product at 'wake up world' : CRC MAF & Throttle Body Single-Use Twin Pack, 1 Kit - Walmart.com

    Find the local Harbor Freight store and pick up the tool below ($3), unless someone has a similar tool that would be useful for this 5 min job, it is also possible to just remove the air box assembly as a whole and clean the MAF sensor that way (no need to buy the tool below), but that will require other tools :

    8 Piece Right Angle Screwdriver

    Though it may not be needed, now might be a good time to clean the throttle valve/plate (horizontal butterfly valve) and surrounding throttle body. Recently did just this and used an older tooth brush with some vodka as I couldn't located my previously purchased twin pack. Since you've already pulled the current codes/DTCs for this vehicle (might want to 'scan' it another time), you can now safely disconnect the 12v supply (10 mins should do it) which will reset the ECUs (good idea after cleaning the MAF and throttle valve) and clear any stored DTCs.

    Let us know if you need a 'how to' for cleaning the above butterfly or disconnecting the 12v battery.
     
  3. FantasticalMagicOne

    FantasticalMagicOne Active Member

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    Those were done yesterday. He removed the assembly to do it, but I wasn't watching closely enough to know if he cleaned it out with a toothbrush or other device. I do know that he sprayed it. I do have the tools on hand to remove the MAF, but not the cleaners or the vodka (it's whiskey in this house). I ordered them (the cleaners, not the vodka) and will have them this weekend, and I'll take a closer look. If it's cleaned, then I have everything I need on hand for next time. If not, then I'll take care of it.

    No game plan yet, but I am curious if getting the sensors in proper working order will restore the power flow to my HV battery. When I was scanning it this afternoon, the battery display showed it was half full and it had dropped to 3 bars by the time I was done fiddling with the program. But no codes for it, so...
     
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  4. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    If the battery level is dropping, you are on a pitch count. Need to plan accordingly to avoid needing to get the hv battery charged up.

    Good luck and keep us posted (y).
     
  5. FantasticalMagicOne

    FantasticalMagicOne Active Member

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    pitch count?
     
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  6. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    You can only try to start the car so many times before the battery is drained past the point where it will allow another attempt;).

    Just pointing that out so you plan before you have a new issue(y).
     
  7. FantasticalMagicOne

    FantasticalMagicOne Active Member

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    Baseball analogy. Got it. Yeah, like I said, I had to force charge it a number of times to get it home yesterday. I want to check the amperage on it. I find it strange to have this issue and no HV battery codes. I really think that something is not hooked up properly, preventing power to get to the battery.
     
  8. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Now that you have the Techstream software, I’d disconnect the 12 volt and repull the codes to see if there is something else going on.

    Just keep in mind you may have continue to force charge the battery. Keep it high just in case there is some discharging that occurs.
     
  9. FantasticalMagicOne

    FantasticalMagicOne Active Member

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    Is there a danger in frequently force charging the battery?
     
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  10. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Just gas mileage reduction ;).

    The battery software will only allow you to do so much, the rest is burned off as waste energy:cool:.
     
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  11. FantasticalMagicOne

    FantasticalMagicOne Active Member

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    Well, if this burns the rest of my fuel then I'm still seeing those gas savings. Haven't filled her up since the middle of December! Probably the least amount I've spent on gasoline in a 3 week (almost) period! :ROFLMAO:
     
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  12. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Yeah some are extreme hypermilers and feel that one drop of gas not spent on propulsion is wasteful:cool:.

    If you’re getting even 40 mpg in NEPA, you’re far and away above 95% of the folks there ;).

    Good luck and keep us posted (y).
     
  13. FantasticalMagicOne

    FantasticalMagicOne Active Member

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    I was getting about 43mpg when the cat was going. Got about 52-54mpg before that (unless I unleashed my tiny car power by letting my inner Andretti come out).
     
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  14. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    My aunt had a Mazda MX3 and when she’d trek to our house on the top of a mountain, she’d try to encourage the hamsters to supply more power:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:.

    50 +mpg in a Gen2 is very good:).

    Particularly in the mountainous terrain around the area(y).
     
  15. FantasticalMagicOne

    FantasticalMagicOne Active Member

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    Yep, tiny car power. :cool:
     
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  16. FantasticalMagicOne

    FantasticalMagicOne Active Member

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    I disconnected the 12V for about 20 minutes, reconnected and reran the diagnostic, and the 02 sensor code was gone.

    The DTC pulled was B1421- Solar Sensor Circuit Passenger Side.

    When I was done running the diagnostic, I could smell something electrical burning from the back of the car. I couldn't smell it from the front seat, but it was strong when I went around to remove the donut from the trunk.

    I also noticed that my last bar of fuel was blinking. I had about 3 bars left when I turned the car off yesterday. I never started the ICE to run the diagnostic, is it possible to lose fuel when the ICE isn't running? If so, how?

    The battery was on the higher side (maybe 8 bars - blue), and did lose a bar or two while I was running the test.

    Also noticed, and it was like this the other day, but I didn't think about it until I opened it up and saw it again, that there is water getting into the trunk of the car where the spare tire is. The hatchback has some caked on dirt around the hinges and we removed it and chalked it up to that messing up the seal. I can see that it's dripping down from the drivers side and then to the back (I park on an incline). I removed everything and will sop it up with towels (it's not a large amount so I'm not lugging the shop vac up from the basement). It rained heavy last night.

    Did not clean MAF or Throttle Body Plate. I ordered the twin pack cleaner last night and got an email this morning noting it was out of stock. The liquor store is within walking distance, perhaps I should go get the vodka?
     
    #56 FantasticalMagicOne, Jan 3, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2019
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  17. FantasticalMagicOne

    FantasticalMagicOne Active Member

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    upload_2019-1-3_13-52-9.png

    I don't know anything about what the calibration should be, but this is what I was looking at.
     
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  18. Prodigyplace

    Prodigyplace Senior Member

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    Disconnecting the battery can make the fuel gauge read incorrectly, if I remember correctly.

    According to this thread, that code can be ignored. It is because a sensor is in the shade. o_O

    Error code B1421 | PriusChat
     
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  19. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    B1421 probably means you weren’t in the sun when you had the codes pulled.

    The water in the back will require more work. The rails are a historic issue on the Gen2’s and water collection can lead to all sorts of problems. Search here for more info and how others have dealt with it.

    Did the 12 volt battery get wet?
     
  20. FantasticalMagicOne

    FantasticalMagicOne Active Member

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    It it very cloudy today, so yes - no sun.

    I have learned quite a bit about the water in the back, and now know that it's a very common problem for the gen 2. Fun stuff.

    The battery did not appear to be wet. I just messaged my mechanic friend and asked him if it was wet or not the other day when he cleared it out.
     
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