Front hub assembly Replacement

This is just kind of a courtesy post, for anyone who needs to replace one of their front wheel hub assemblies. I replaced my rear hubs recently, and they're very, very straightforward. Remove the brakes/rotor and front facing bolts holding it on, then wail on it with a slide hammer until it comes off. I discovered that the front hubs are not as straightforward, and that the general repair guidelines I've found are incorrect.

These are the special notes:

My Haynes/Chilton manuals, as well as some YouTube videos, state you need to disconnect the hub from the steering knuckle and the lower control arm. This is a ton of work, a general pain, and requires work in high-torque bolts in a closed space. The reason for this is that the bolts holding the hub assembly on are reverse-facing (bolthead screws in from behind, not in front), and because the axle blocks access to them. However, once you get the axle nut off, you can press the axle in a few inches with your thumb. It's not enough to get the axle entirely out of your way, BUT, with a 3" socket extension, you CAN get around the axle (pressed in) to remove the bolts. I found it a little easier to use a 3" wobble extension, but it's not necessary. It also gives you enough room to spray some penetrating oil in the back to work in to the rust. So you just saved a bunch of work right off the bat.

I used a hub puller to try and get the assembly out. What wound up happening was it separated the hub/bearings from the assembly (which remained firmly stuck). I have read comments about people running in to this issue a lot. With the hub removed, there's nothing to grab on to in an attempt to push/pull it out. I got around this by punching the lug stems out of the hub and bolting the hub on to the assembly. I do not have the metric sizing of the bolt holes, but you can probably look it up. I used a 5" bolt and threaded it in the the (now empty) bolt holes which held the assembly to the car. The hub holes do not line up with the bolt holes, but I could put one bolt in nice and tight, and pound on the hub with a hammer. Then I'd switch to a different hold and repeat to free up the remainder of the hub assembly. Basically, with the hub bolted to the assembly, you have a surface to strike at to "pull" the hub out.