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Front Sway bar Information

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Accessories & Modifications' started by Mavi, Apr 15, 2016.

  1. Mavi

    Mavi Active Member

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    Alright so I changed this for me and it was great for a day, but now I hear a clunking noise from the general area. Does anyone have any torque numbers for the steering rack bolts, and possible the subframe bolts? I just hand tightened them more or less but it doesn't seem like that way good enough.

    My simple how to guide on changing the front sway bar from stock to a Corolla Matrix Front Stabilizer Bar.

    I painted mine with left over red paint.
    IMG_20160413_151838.jpg

    1. Loosen Lug Nuts on tires.
    2. Jack up prius from support on the 2 sides, this should be enough for the entire job.
    IMG_20160413_131154.jpg
    3. Remove both Tires completely.
    4. Remove the 2 outer most subframe bolts. Not the inner ones, they are for the suspension.
    5. Remove the 2 14mm engine mount bolts that are connected to the sub frame.
    IMG_20160413_131307.jpg
    IMG_20160413_131310.jpg
    6. At this point with a jack under the center of the subframe (just for safety) unscrew the outer 2 subframe bolts which are near the sway endlinks. I unscrewed them and then screwed them back in 4-5 threads just so it can hang there. Did the same with the other side.
    7. At this point let the jack down and the subframe should drop. Remove the 4x steering rack bushings, I got one from the driver side, and the other 3 with a long ratchet from the passenger side. Also remove the bottom nut on the swaybar endlinks.
    IMG_20160413_140816.jpg
    IMG_20160413_140809.jpg

    8. Remove the 12mm swaybar bushing bolts x 2 from each side.
    IMG_20160413_142751.jpg

    9. At this point drop the sway bar out from the back. Get another person to help with the new bar. (Make sure the sway bar bushing is greased at the point where it contacts the bar. I used white lithium grease I had on hand.)
    10. With the help of another person push in the new sway bar in the place of the old, and put the sway bar bushing bracking bolts in, and work your way from there to put all the bolts back in.

    IMG_20160413_162451.jpg
     

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  2. 69shovlhed

    69shovlhed Surly tree hugger

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    no torque specs for you, but if it was me, I would double check all my bolts were tight if I had a clunk. look for chipped paint on your sway bar where it might be hitting something. use a strong flashlight to look everything over good, get a friend to drive it over some rough road while you listen from the passenger seat to see if you can figure out which side the clunk comes from.
     
  3. Mavi

    Mavi Active Member

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    Update: I think its the attached photo area. There is a metal piece and its not tight at all. It just moves when I move the metal under the rubber. I'm guessing that's making the noise. Any idea what that is and if I can just get it to pop in or something like that?
    Well i double checked and everything was tight. I tightened them a little wee bit more. But now when I turn left or right it clunks. Sounds like the steering rack. I checked the steering rack bolts and they are tight. Think I messed something up? The noise comes when I'm driving even slowly. When parked I had someone turn left and right without any noose oddly enough.

    Is there a such thing as the steering rack bushing bolts being too tight possibly?

    Alright so here is a video of the issue . it happens over bumps mostly.

    I changed the shocks/struts 10k miles ago. The rest looks fine. Do you think the new sway bar killed my balljoints or possible something like that?
     

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    #3 Mavi, Apr 16, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2016
  4. 69shovlhed

    69shovlhed Surly tree hugger

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    it must clip in somehow and you must have dislodged it when you unbolted the rack. I haven't ever unbolted the rack when I've done the sway bars.
     
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  5. Mavi

    Mavi Active Member

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    Really? All the guides including justdidits and another users guide said it had to be done. Personally I couldn't get the sway bar out unless in did it as well. . well guess its time to take it to a mechanic. Its a but more tricky to figure out now.

     
    #5 Mavi, Apr 17, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2016
  6. 69shovlhed

    69shovlhed Surly tree hugger

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    never unbolted the rack. I dangled the subframe enough to slide the bar in, either through the wheel opening or from the back. done it 4 times so far.
     
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  7. Mavi

    Mavi Active Member

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    Doesn't that put a lot of pressure on the steering rack which is the only thing holding onto subframe at that point?
     
  8. 69shovlhed

    69shovlhed Surly tree hugger

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    not really, I don't disconnect the motor mounts and I don't take the front subframe bolts all the way out.
     
  9. Justdidit

    Justdidit LVNPZEV

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    Here is a PDF spec sheet for the NHW20 Front Sway Bar replacement
    Could you repost the video - youtube says there is an error with the file. Also, any more pictures? I have done this swap only twice but never had any odd noises from the install.
     

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  10. 69shovlhed

    69shovlhed Surly tree hugger

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    nfw would I remove the steering gear from the car or disconnect the exhaust. Toyota doesn't want you to mess with the subframe bolts, I suppose because you could screw the alignment up if you aren't careful when you tighten the bolts back up. I spray paint the subframe ears and then you can get perfect re-alignment by matching the paint lines.
     
  11. Mavi

    Mavi Active Member

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    Good news. I took it apart yesterday and the issue actually was 2 fold. First was the endlink nut was loose on my right side. (95% of noise was from this beginners mistake)The was the easy fix. The second was the STEERING COLUMN HOLE COVER on the steering rack had popped out of the metal clamp that you can access from the inside of the drivers seat. Took about 2 hours but fixed. No more problems. Drives amazing!

    For new installers. If you will unbolt the steering rack column also take the STEERING COLUMN HOLE COVER off. It declips from inside the drivers side behind the gas pedal. 2 little plastic nuts and it pops out. This was it won't get pulled off.
     
  12. trungdok

    trungdok Junior Member

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    Do you have instructions on how to do it your way? I'm thinking of replacing my sway bar (broken)
     
  13. 69shovlhed

    69shovlhed Surly tree hugger

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    there is an older thread with instructions in it. I think someone even posted a few pix when they did it. definitely upgrade to a corolla bar, and remember to get the brackets and bushiings with the bar.
     
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  14. trungdok

    trungdok Junior Member

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    I had been scouring the forum for tidbits of information. Lots of good info here but hard to find them. If you don't mind, could you guide me through a few questions?
    1) In another thread you stated you only partially unbolt the front subframe bolts, let them dangle. Do you completely remove the back bolts or also only partially?
    2) Do you need to support the subframe (with a jack) when you undo the bolts even if just partially?

    From what I had gathered from your helps in various threads, I'm guessing that you did the following:
    1) Partially unbolt the front subframe bolts
    2) Partially unbolt the rear subframe bolts (not sure if support is needed under the subframe or not)
    3) Unbolt the sway bar bolts (the one on the bushings)
    4) Unbolt the sway bar from the sway bar links
    5) Slide the bar out through the wheel opening

    Optionally, you also
    2b) Unbolt the rear subframe bolts completely
    5b) Slide the bar backward, through the opening where the bolts used to be between the subframe and the body

    Thanks.
     
  15. 69shovlhed

    69shovlhed Surly tree hugger

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    I had to remove the rear bolts completely. I firmly recommend you have a trolley jack under the rear of the subframe. it is possible the engine and transaxle won't fall on you and maim or kill you if you don't have a jack under it, but I definitely didn't test that. you need to be careful lowering the subframe; its likely that a wire or hose or something will break if you lower it too far. the old bar comes out pretty easy, but the corolla bar is bent a little different and you might have to rotate it back and forth to weasel it in the left side, it might be easier to push it in from the back. you'll have to see what works for you. definitely spray paint the ears of the subframe. there are holes you will be able to use to reference the subframe and pry it intro position. probably still should get an alignment afterwards, even if you get the subframe exactly where you think it was before you unbolted it. the subframe bolts need to be tight, but don't use a giant breaker bar and strip or snap one off. you will be really unhappy if you can't reattach the subframe properly. the frame bushings are kinda difficult to unbolt because there's not much clearance between the subframe and body.
     
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  16. trungdok

    trungdok Junior Member

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    After installing the sway bar (used 2009 Prius sway bar onto 2007 Prius), the ride got really harsh. There's no metal clunking sound. It feels like I got really bad out of balance wheels but without the steering wheel jerking left and right. I could feel it mostly by the pedal, but also throughout the whole body in general. I haven't done a wheel alignment yet but I don't think a bad alignment would make the car feel harsh. Any idea?
     
  17. 69shovlhed

    69shovlhed Surly tree hugger

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    why would you replace your bar with another prius bar? was it any thicker? I would have expected them to be identical. perhaps you got the subframe in crooked?
     
  18. trungdok

    trungdok Junior Member

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    I broke the end point of the sway bar so this is just a replacement. How crooked the subframe could get out of whack to cause problem? It doesn't feel like it could move out of place beyond a few mm. I will have to jack the car up to double check.
     
  19. 69shovlhed

    69shovlhed Surly tree hugger

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    I believe it could easily be more than a 1/4" off, if you didn't do something to reference it before moving it. that's why I posted to spray paint the ears of the subframe. the holes in the subframe and the paint spots on the body will allow you to reinstall it almost perfectly where it was. still should get an alignment afterwards, because even a few mm will throw it off.
     
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  20. xeRin8

    xeRin8 Junior Member

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