Gen 1 PIP Battery life

All I've observed is my estimated EV range has increased in two years of ownership, mainly because I fixed my rear brakes

 

When the car is new, it does pretty generic range estimation.
As it learns the driver's style and locale, some drivers will show a loss of range through better estimation, others an increase in range estimated.

No one ever whines about the increase.

In fifteen years, we will have a better guess about 'Gen 1 PIP Battery life'.

 

i lost about 15% from new over the first two years, then it stabilized. most here have seen some degradation. the best measure is battery capacity, but i don't have the tools.

 

Fix your your rear brakes how...

SM-G950U ?

 

There is no perceptible change in mine since I got it over 1-1/2 years ago. Still running at about 11.9 to 12.4 miles. I can get 14 miles driving on 25-35 mph roads.

 

Caliper guide pins were seized!

 

that is about where i am at. started at 16.

 

I should check mine, any symptoms of seized guide pins?

I used to get 12.1-12.9 (13.1 once) per complete charge when I bought it used at 50k miles 2 yrs ago, then last winter it started to go down to 11 then 10.1 even 9.8 at times. After the recall it went up to 14.1 for a week then trickled back down to 10.1 and stayed there.
I'm thinking that number is just an estimation of mile left on charge dependent on a variety of factors from temperature to pedal pressure to road grades, etc. Used to think much of it then, now I just drive and glance at it in a less concerning way, I just hope tha battery will last before it needs to be replaced prematurely.

 

My 2013 PiP I have had about the same length of time as Jerry, now at 19K miles. I have seen 16 miles in flat city running several times, and earlier this year, starting at 65% got 15 miles, which extrapolates to a big value .

I use Torque to look at the numbers, and my Internal Resistance values RO1 to RO8 have remained unchanged at 0.007 - I tend to think of these as a “battery health” measure like Hx in the Leaf. Anyone else use these, or alternatively treat them as meaning something else?

 

Uneven wear on the pads and discs (corrosion on part of discs most obvious), and brake noise when pulling off (especially after being parked up in the cold for a few hours). Definitely worth checking and re-lubricating the pins every couple of years or so, especially in colder climates (road salt, etc. doesn't help).

 

Copy that, thank you

SM-G950U ?

 

@Mendel Leisk has a particular lubricant he like using for his regular brake maintenance.

 

I have a 2013 PiP with about 130k miles (30k of which is EV). I'm guessing I have anywhere from 10-20% degradation, so hard to say though. I have been pretty gentle on the battery other than 2 vacations to the mountains. I imagine the battery didn't love those trips.

 

That sounds like you haven't got the caliper piston oriented correctly. It's imperative that the spoke pattern on the piston be oriented like an "X", like this:



And then the brake solidly firmed up against the inner pad thus. I would suggest to install thus, depress brake pedal multiple times to firm seat everything, lower the car, reconnect 12 volt negative cable (it should be disconnected before you start any disassemble, for safety, avoid popping a piston out). Do not use parking brake yet.

Take the car for a short test drive, and on return, apply/release the parking brake several times. Then raise the rear of the car and verify the wheels are reasonably free-spinning: with a good push the wheel should free-rotate a revolution or two.

Lubes I use, aftermarket but no problems:

Caliper pins (and rubber boots): Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant (had it on for about 5 years now, does not appear to swell rubber, so ok for caliper pins with rubber O-rings)

Areas of contact between brake backing plates, shims, and caliper: Permatex Anti-Seize

I fell into the mis-oriented piston caliper trap, the first time I did the rear brakes on ours. Six months later I noticed scoring on the outside of the rotors, and when I took things apart I found about 50% of the inside face of the rotor rusty due to lack of contact, and the inner pad with severely beveled wear. The piston was rotated so a raised spoke was bearing on the locator pin on back of inner pad, and that was basically the only contact, causing terrifically skewed clamping action.

I cleaned up the rotors with steel wool, put in new pads/shims, was very careful with piston orientation (per pic above), reassembled everything and ensured the brakes were well seated, and so on, per the above. Everything was fine, except the brakes sounded terrible, noisy with every application. After a day or two it got better, and within a month it was completely "healed", back to normal.

 

I've already been through all of that, but thanks

To be honest, I don't remember if the piston was misaligned, but the slide pins were totally seized, and one had excessive corrosion. Then a year later, they were seized again! I think I used grease that wasn't compatible with the rubber on the pins. I replaced all four pins and boots, and used the Toyota OEM "Rubber Grease" (the red stuff) as per the official instructions, and they are hopefully behaving now - they're not making any noise, and disc wear is even.

 

Yeah there are some greases, recommended for pins, but somewhere in the fine print there's mention about it being incompatible with rubber. I really don't understand how/why they sell those, since even for pins without O-rings the grease tends to migrate to the pin boots, even if you didn't apply it there.

 

You are off topict

 

i think i know range loss when i see it.

as for battery life, we have only seen a few go bad on these forums, and someone had an auction vehicle with over 200,000 miles.