Gen 1 Prius battery short? common?

Hey Jeff,
Thanks for the input. Yes I aware that overheating is bad. What I am doing to minimize heating is to rebalance staggered modules with fans running while running the charge cycle. The adjacent modules should somewhat act as heat sinks. Am doing 1,5,9 and 11 first and then will do 2,6 etc. Have not experienced much heat at least on the surface. Number 9 did get up to around 90F the others around 80 . Ambient temp around 72. I went ahead and restarted 9 as it was not going to be usable with its poor capacity. So not much to lose even if I did toast it. After three cycles it has improved but is still only about 4.5 amp-hr. the others are in the high 5s. One of which did so after only two cycles. #9 has yet to take the full 7.25 amp-hr charge but is getting close. I doubt I will use it even if it does improve to match the others capacity. Sort of using it as an experiment.

Back the insulation question. My intent was to not insulate the battery case but to put a layer on top of the cargo deck in plain view. I do see that this would impair HV case cooling as air flow is not impacted and neither is heat transfer through the bottom of the case to the car body. I doubt that is much transfer upward into the cabin as blower air flow is to the top of the modules and then down through/between them and out the bottom duct. Point is to try to keep cabin heat from getting to the battery as the car bakes in sun.

I understand the importance of having reasonably matched capacities but do not understand the significance of matching resistance other than a high resistance module is indicative of a problem with the module? What I intend to do is to measure the module voltage open circuit and then under a 1 amp discharge and see if any look anomalous. Is this a good approach?
Thanks.