Gen 2, 600+km, Brake Actuator Questions

Yes take the break actuator from a known rolling chassis that it was working on when you got out of it If you have that you're 10 steps ahead in this game If you can cut the brake lines on the used unit you're taking out leaving all the fluid in the unit when you disconnect the master feed coming from the reservoir going to the metal pipe over to and connecting to the plastic fitting on the side of the actuator just cut that back where it's metal to keep all the fluid in this thing while you're messing with it now remove it with the bracket by removing the little water pump and the bracket that holds up the air conditioning line so on and so forth the three bolts that hold the bracket to the frame and the firewall and of course you have here inverter out of the way and pull that mess out of there He might as well go ahead and take the weight off the bottom of the one you're going to be reinstalling in your car It's just dead weight no used to be there any weight I can trash I try to do slide the unit you just removed with the cut brake lines into the car. Now use the proper wrench and loosen all of those cut brake lines leave the fat hose connected to the feed line that's right next are in between all the brake lines you're undoing the 10 mm barrels what you want to do here is quickly undo these throw them off to the side take the ones that are in your car good now pull the lines around line them up and get them started from bottom to top put the line in on the very top of the unit also and now connect the main feed line that runs to the plastic fitting on the side Make sure it will be ready to have fluid running to it and not drip and leak out anywhere once that feed line is connected and you have fluid running from the reservoir to the side feed of the actuator you'll see fluid start to run out of the bottom fitting when you see solid fluid coming out of the bottom fitting you tighten it then fluid will start running out of the next fitting up the side You wait until it's all fluid no air looking you tighten it so on and so forth all the way up then you get to the fitting on the very top of the actuator and you tighten it. Then I go back and I undo the clamps that I had closing the feeds that feed the strokes emulator and the little other pump over here on the passenger side and I've already undone the one that's feeding the actuator. Now take the blue relays out at the top and the very bottom of the fuse box they'll be marked ABS blah blah blah. Now bleed the front brakes just like you would a regular Corolla. Do them twice actually make sure you have no air pumping the brakes do the left first then the right in the front no relays in Make sure you seemingly have no air doing the squirting in the pumping with the person in the car. Now put the relays in person still sitting in the car and you go to the back left You have the person pump up the brakes 1 2 3 4 5 and hold you crack the fitting in the back slowly and you hear the pump start running and you see fluids squirting out right smartly close it down just a little and let the fluid keep coming when the pump starts to labor a little bit close to fitting person still holding the breakdown you crack it a little more again and see You see no air straight stream close it up go to the other side do the same. Now see what you have You should have very decent breaks You may still have lights on but let's not get carried away Do you have good breaking Do you see the regenerative braking arrows on the screen when you let off the gas Do you come to a stop and reasonable time like always if you still have the lights on the dash you probably need the Toyota software or a very capable scanner like an autel version 5 or better. To set the linear valve offset and once that happens the lights will go out and you should be good we've done this twice here almost same conditions parts from cars we owned in other words. Good luck

 

If you're buying a used actuator from another vehicle and you can't get that other vehicle on and lit up so you can see what's happening on the dash It's a crap shoot I've put three on one car. That I'm driving right now All three of them have been no good The linear valve offset will not sync and the light stay on the beep comes on while I'm driving and I have brakes like a 1964 Dodge truck and then when the beep stops I have full braking without ABS but I do have Regen. The car is no issue for me to drive at all so I've been driving it every time I see an actuator I grab it when I get around to it I change it and it's usually a failing one also so there's always that usually I'm getting them for free so it doesn't really matter it's just my time but so far I've done this once with success and three times without the part is about $1,400 brand new from the dealer if you buy it online and pick it up at the store of your choice If you walk in and talk to the parts counter it going to pay $1,700. At some point you will get disgusted with the bleeding process and you'll hunt down a bi-directional scanner computer that can in fact run the brake bleeding procedure for this model.

 

There is NO specific programming that HAS to be done when installing a used, known good, brake actuator into a different car. Just be sure to do a good fill and bleed. The only time I HAD to do the linear valve offset procedure was when installing a new OEM actuator, and when installing a used actuator into a car that already had the linear valve offset unlearned code.