Gen 3 Internal Combustion Engine Removal

The following is from my experience removing the ICE from a 2013 Prius. I didn't have a lift and didn't need to remove the rest of the power train so I think removal from the top was the correct choice. This is not a complete step by step but just covers some specific issues I came across. I would suggest removing whatever is potentially in the way. Also, even if removing the complete power train, I'd remove the ICE first by itself, although it might be possible to remove the complete power train from the top. The front axles would be removed first.

I didn't remove the orange electrical cables on the front left side of the engine compartment, although I did remove the hybrid battery safety plug in the rear compartment for safety reasons. I did place some cardboard on the lower windshield edge after removing the windshield wiper assembly as I've heard any impact there can destroy the glass. Support the power train at the mid point with a floor jack or with a wood shim between the power train and the round brace below it.

These are the things I removed in advance:
- A/C compressor (just support to the front with small rope).
- Air Filter and intake box.
- Intake Manifold.
- Fuel rail and line.
- EGR Assembly.
- Coolant Reservoir.
- Passenger side motor mount, including mount bracket.
- Coolant hose, clamps, and/or rigid coolant pipe from driver side cylinder head. This is kind of a pain in that the hose itself can't be removed without removing the rigid pipe or the engine itself. While the hose is flexible, there isn't room between the rigid pipe and engine to get it out. Also, when putting the engine back in, this hose must be fitted gradually as the engine is moved into place. Otherwise, it will prevent the engine from mating properly.
- Exhaust Manifold. I removed the nuts and the studs both. I think it's a 6.5 mm 12 point to remove the studs but don't remember for sure. Before putting engine back in, I would use a small thread to tie the gasket in place. This makes it easier to get studs back in, which I did mostly from below.

When the engine is clear of the drive shaft splines, there is probably a half inch of space between the frame and the timing cover. I used the donor engine to duplicate the tilt of the engine on the hoist before removing the old engine. I don't know how critical this is but I didn't want the old motor twisting or rotating after the weight was on the hoist.