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Gen 3 rear view mirror question

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by bluzdoctor, Apr 8, 2023.

  1. bluzdoctor

    bluzdoctor Junior Member

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    I just swapped my 2013 Prius V for 2013 Prius hatchback (with a lot fewer miles). The “new” Prius has a Homelink auto dimming mirror that doesn’t function or turn on. The handbook indicates it’s on the same fuse as other lights working, so I assume the fuse is OK and it’s something else. I have no use for Homelink, but just want the dimming to work. What options are there in addition to replacing with a manual mirror?

    thanks,

    joel
     
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  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Replacing with another dimmable mirror there are aftermarket units out there I'm pretty sure that's electronic privacy glasses quite popular now. I'm not sure why you're unit in the car isn't working maybe you could take it out and have an electronics person have a look at it on the bench see if it's something simple like it got hot in the sun and some wires have come loose behind the plastic cover or what have you It could be something very simple not time-consuming and take hours to fix it certainly not worth any of that or at least to me it wouldn't be I would just be happy to have a regular day night mirror with a flip switch I don't spend that much time driving at night and when I do I don't mind flipping the little doodad and being done with it.
     
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  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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  4. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Depending on the model of the Prius you're driving (I believe they only came in IV and V models with softex interior), it may not have originally come with the dimming mirror. It may have been added afterwards. If that's the case, the wiring would be something you need to look at, whether or not it's even plugged in to get power.

    I also have a vague memory the wiring associated with this mirror if wired incorrectly, the dimming function would not work, but the garage opening function would work.
     
    #4 JC91006, Apr 9, 2023
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2023
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    This site has old US brochures, comes in handy for determining what levels had what:

    Auto-Brochures | home
     
  6. bluzdoctor

    bluzdoctor Junior Member

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    I have not; not sure which pins to check. I get basic electricity, but mostly on pre-1970 motorcycles and cars. You know, the water/plumbing analogy
     
  7. bluzdoctor

    bluzdoctor Junior Member

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    The dealer advertised it as a Prius IV but the CARFAX says it’s a Two. It has the softex interior and navigation, but the seats are manual and the heated seats don’t work and look aftermarket (not the switches shown in the manual. So it’s unclear what’s up with the model/trim. No JBL badge on the audio unit.

    it has a clean one-owner CARFAX, but all of this is confusing. I just need the mirror to dim and am happy to reach up and flip it up and down. Thanks everyone for your feedback. Any tips how to check the pins for current?
     
  8. bluzdoctor

    bluzdoctor Junior Member

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  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    That wiki page itself should answer that question for you. It describes the subscription access, and a number of alternatives. When Elektroingenieur kindly put that page together, he anticipated that you might have questions like that.
     
  10. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The most accurate way to check the Prius is running the VIN with a Toyota dealer. You can also run it through online services that offer to buy your car, they can tell you with the VIN if it's a Two or a IV.

    From your description, I would think that's a IV. The seats don't come powered. Also I don't think the Two had a reverse camera standard until 2015. An easy way to tell a Two, is looking at the passenger door and rear hatch, those will not have smart key functions to open and lock. The Two only has it for the driver's door.
     
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  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Toyota's database is actually wrong about my car. At first I though the seller was being shady, because he listed it as a V and it's very clearly a IV and always has been (all the factory IV stuff and wiring, none of the factory V stuff, no question about it). But I ran the VIN and Toyota also said it was a V, so that was probably also what the seller relied on.

    For all I know, Toyota's data might be perfectly correct for every single other car out there except for mine. But that experience leaves me in a bit of doubt how accurate it is.