Gen 3 transaxle failure/fix at 193,000

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by Jeremy J. Ford, Feb 12, 2020.

  1. Jeremy J. Ford

    Jeremy J. Ford New Member

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    Just bought a 2010 gen 3 Prius 2. It had 193000 and the PO said he was driving and it cut out on him. He also said the engine was locked. So I drive 5 hrs for a $1000 1 owner car and towed it home.

    the ICE engine would not kick in for some reason. When it did, I would here a click or clunk. It was also not throwing any Dtc codes but I did get a check hybrid system light. So I did. Traction battery tested good and 12v battery was new. Next I changed the fuel pump to be safe with a used one. Still didn’t matter. I knew it must be the engine or transaxle. I removed the plastic cover under passenger side wheel well and tried to turn motor over from crankshaft bolt. 17mm. It was frozen.

    Trip to the junkyard I found a used one removed for $200! Plus $25 back when I return my old one. I loaded it up in the back of the wife’s Rogue. Then headed home.

    Please note. I’m not a real mechanic. Yes I’ve worked on cars but not like this. So I found the Prius 2 transmission removal instructions. https://attachments.priuschat.com/attachment-files/2018/08/151208_Prius_2nd_Gen_-_Transmission_Removal.pdf

    T
    hey were helpful but not exact. So I’ll tell you guys what I did. Incase it helps someone else in the future.
    1. Disconnect 12v battery
    2. Remove orange disconnect from traction battery. Trunk rt side.
    3. Removed windshield wiper cowl and assembly. Pop black rivets. I think 12mm for 3 wiper bolts. About 9 10mm bolts. Remove and set aside. Don’t have to remove hood.
    4. removed black plastic trim above the bumper. Just pull out rivets.
    5. Losen lugs, jack car on stands, remove tires.
    6. Remove plastic under engine covers. 10mm bolts. Drain fluids. 2 10mm Allen wrench bolts. One drains pink coolant. Other drinks transmission fluid. NOTE: my trans fluid was dark brown. sealed for life? Yup! Until it breaks down and you have to unseal it.
    7. Remove air box. A few 10 mm bolts.
    8. Remove inverter. Pretty easy. A bunch of 12mm lugs where orange cables plug in. Then 10mm lugs to disconnect orange cables. Then common sense. There are like 3 bolts holding it down. The gen iii inverter is super light.
    8. Remove the bracket underneath it. 12 mm bolts. And unplug and remove the remaining 2 or so wires attached to the top of the tranny.
    9. Now remove the 2 top bolts that hold the transmission to the engine. One is on the left center and the other reach around back where the windshield wiper cowl was and remove it.
    10. A. 30mm socket to remove axel bolt. Remove cotter pin and nut for tie rod. B. Hit bottom with hammer and it drops down. C. Remove 2 bolts above the rotor the. Tap the axel in as it all folds down exposing the axel. D. Then in your back, hammer and flat screwdriver or pry bare. Tap axel out. Repeat on other side.
    11. Remove the 6 or so remaining bolts attaching the transmission to the motor. Including the 2 dummy bolts with a cover where a starter would be. Also remove rear motor mount bolt.
    12. Get your transmission jack and support the transaxle. Then remove the 3 brackets that hold the mounts. Well the left and right braces are just in the way. The front brace holds the front motor mount. So remove your front motor mount, then drivers side from underneath.
    13. Pry the transmission from motor and maneuver it down and out.

    Now swap them and out them back. I’m sure I forgot a few things but use the attached guide and common sense. It wasn’t to hard to do.

    Today I’ll be putting the new transmission in That took me all day from 10am - 6pm and the new one is under the car. I can take pics if needed as I reinstall.

    Btw: with the tranny out, I was able to turn the motor by hand. So I’m 100% sure the problem was a transaxle failure.



    Time to get u dee the car. Support your motor with a jack stand.
     
  2. Ed Beaty

    Ed Beaty Active Member

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    Amazing, sir. I wish you well! Now, if that works, you get to start in on the EGR circuit (including engine intake manifold) cleaning on that relatively high-mileage engine. Lots of useful info here on doing that (see pinned posts on NutsAboutBolts videos), including links to good and detailed videos on all of it (and more).
    Best of luck going forward!
     
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  3. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    With the trans & inverter out of the way - should be really easy to remove the EGR cooler.

    Pixel XL ?
     
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  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

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    Too terse: what was it you found? Engine? You've done a salvage engine swap so far, and transaxle swap is next?
     
  5. Jeremy J. Ford

    Jeremy J. Ford New Member

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    No. That was for the transmission with 81,000 miles on it. I didn’t swap the engine.
     
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  6. Jeremy J. Ford

    Jeremy J. Ford New Member

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    Day 2 and it’s raining. But I managed to mate the engine to the Transmission. That literally took 3 jacks and 3 hrs. This was by far the hardest and trickiest part. In the process, I damaged the axel seal. Which is fine. And broke the plastic top off or a piece on top of the transmission. But I don’t Know what it was for.
     
  7. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    The fact that you are doing this in the freezing weather and snow, is remarkable!
    I hope everything goes smoothly for you and you'll soon have a great functioning Prius!

     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

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    There's a plastic closure plate around the back of the transaxle, I think some sort of access/inspection thing? I notice it every time I'm doing an oil change. It's loose, you can move it with your fingers, feels like it could be popped out. It's not sealing, holding back fluid or anything.
     
  9. Jeremy J. Ford

    Jeremy J. Ford New Member

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    This is a pic of the piece I broke. It sits on top of the transmission. It has a black part on the top that broke off. Anyone know what this is?

    Per your advice and request. I removed the egr cooler and pipes today. Might as well clean them while I’m in there.
     

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  10. Jeremy J. Ford

    Jeremy J. Ford New Member

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    Google/ Prius chat is my friend. Guess I found it. Transaxle breather. Only $3 at the dealership guess I’ll get one tomorrow.
     

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  11. Jeremy J. Ford

    Jeremy J. Ford New Member

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    Just finished putting everything back together and it won’t start. Got the p lock malfunction error.

    I’ve tried battery change, jump and charge but same error. Brake lights work, checked fuses under the hood and they are good. Made sure everything was plugged in tight. Made sure the doors were locked.


    Suggestions?
     
  12. George W

    George W Active Member

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  13. Jeremy J. Ford

    Jeremy J. Ford New Member

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    I topped it off with coolant and tranny fluid. Brake fluid is low but not past the low mark. I’ll top it off and give it a try.
     
  14. George W

    George W Active Member

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    I'm confused. Did you replace the eCVT fluid with Toyota ATF-WS?
     
  15. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    How's that hybrid battery disconnect switch? Is it fully seated?

    Pixel XL ?
     
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  16. Jeremy J. Ford

    Jeremy J. Ford New Member

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    Yes. I’m with Toyota atf-ws. But I don’t think that should throw the p lock malfunction light.
     
  17. Jeremy J. Ford

    Jeremy J. Ford New Member

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    Yes. I put the orange lock in place and slid it in so it’s locked down.
     
  18. Jeremy J. Ford

    Jeremy J. Ford New Member

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    There is no fuse in the p lock spot. Is this ok?
     

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  19. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    I found this:
    “There is a sensor under the brake pedal which determines if it's being pressed. This sensor is used to allow you to start the car, and also to illuminate the brake lights. Have someone stand behind the car to check that the brake lights come on when you depress the brake pedal. If they don't come on, it's probably this sensor, which is fairly cheap and perhaps just needs alignment and not even replacement.

    You should test voltage from inside the engine compartment and not directly from the. Artery terminals. There's a jump starting block described in the owner's manual, and it is under the hood. If your battery ground is bad, for example, you'll get good voltage from the battery terminals but you'll still be under voltage.”

    Also, check that you didn't pinch a wire, possibly grounding it out, and blowing a fuse...
     
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  20. Jeremy J. Ford

    Jeremy J. Ford New Member

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    I checked that sensor. It’s good. I checked all wires. They are good. Fuses test good. Guess gonna try brand new battery to eliminate it.
     
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