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Gen 4 into Gen 3 swap fail

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by C-in-DC, Jan 14, 2023.

  1. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I had the 611 in the Gen 3
     
  2. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    Can’t get the mini vci cable drivers to install on my company laptop. Might be time to give up.
     
  3. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    unfortunately you will need local administrative rights over the windows system you intend to use to talk to the car. I don't have a way around that.

    Sounds like it's hung up until somebody has a successful techstream chat with it.
     
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Given that there's often a bootleg aspect to Mini VCI drivers, installing on the company laptop might be frowned on by the CISO, if there is one. Maybe it's just as well the installation didn't go.
     
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  5. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    Has anyone done the Swap in VA, MD, DC?
     
  6. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    I pulled the engine out completely again because i got tired of the lack of clearance on the egr and exhaust side. Also didn't want to spend hours upon hours laying on the engine swapping out the manifold.

    I bought a 2010 Gen 3 Exhaust Manifold North of Richmond for 50 bucks, that's allowed me to go back to using the Gen 3 egr with the gen 3 intake. The problem i have now is the engine coolant outlet flange has some kind of water pump on it that's blocking the mounting of the Gen 3 egr. I could just butcher the mounting bracket off the bottom of the egr but then i'd be relying on the manifold and egr -to-intake pipe sub assembly to hold the egr in place.

    Have you seen a similar pump on a prius? it's a aisin.
     

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  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    US market hasn't been getting that arrangement, but Euro and Japanese markets do. The gray thing is an electrically-operated "flow shutting valve" that the ECM can use to influence the temperature of the water going to the EGR, cabin heater, and EHRS. There is more info in this thread.

    This drawing's not from Toyota, but from an auto-research firm. Funny that they've labeled the same valve "flow shutting valve" in the physical layout, but "selector valve" in the schematic.

    When the valve is closed, those paths only get cool water straight from the water pump. That cools the EGR better, and picks up more heat from the EHRS, but doesn't offer much heat to the cabin.

    When the valve is open, hot coolant exiting the cylinder head is supplied, so you get better cabin heat, but less heat picked up from EHRS, and less cooling of the EGR.

    [​IMG]

    One approach you can take in an engine swap is to buy the US version of the water-outlet fitting (which doesn't have the flow shutting valve), and cap off the extra coolant line coming around from the water pump.
     
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  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    [QUOTE="C-in-DC, post: 3319849, member: 204422"]I could just butcher the mounting bracket off the bottom of the egr but then i'd be relying on the manifold and egr -to-intake pipe sub assembly to hold the egr in place.[/QUOTE]

    That's the highlighted portion here?

    upload_2023-1-20_13-39-2.png

    If so, I would butcher away. Close to two years back I removed the nut and stud at that location, no problems. FWIW @Ragingfit's 4th gen engine transplant into 3rd gen has the EGR system free-spanning, from the exhaust manifold to the the intake manifold. He needed to grind off a lobe on the corner of the head, to avoid interference.

    Have you watched his series (it's in a somewhat unexpected location, technically sensible, but...), it goes into detail regarding replumb of the coolant system. He introduces a short section of steel pipe for some reason, just below the EGR system. I'm not clear on the details, but for you, having the 4th gen engine, it'll maybe help.
     
  9. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    Would this valve remain open without a wire landed in the sensor? I’ve gone ahead and ordered the 2016 engine coolant valve flange so I can copy @Ragingfit’s install in his videos.

    I have a portion of the wire harness so I plan on extending the temp sensor connection from the harness tonight by using two wires from it. Do you see any problem with the gauge being off?
     
  10. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    So to be clear with the Gen 4 engine you just can't put the Gen 3 intake the Gen 3 exhaust and pretty much have everything plug up and go where it's supposed to without a whole lot of hoo ha?. Generally Toyota is pretty good about this stuff I don't have a Gen 4 locally to look at but it would seem to me that the center section and the bottom section in the head pretty much dimensionally should be the same and then if you were to pile on the Gen 3 ancillaries. And go . But I imagine there's some problems somewhere.
     
  11. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    #31 C-in-DC, Jan 20, 2023
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2023
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  12. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    When I was doing swaps I always like to have both engines hanging from a chain where I can rotate them around at almost eye level so I can kind of get a feel for bracketry components hanging strangely differently and all that and I would just try to duplicate that on what I'm putting back into the vehicle so that when I got it in the vehicle everything pretty much lines up and does what it's supposed to I mean I have it all out of the vehicle at the time so taking the extra time to hang them be able to rotate them swap out parts makes it a lot easier.
     
  13. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    the additional coolant line that goes around the back side of the engine to the pulley side in the 2016 doesn’t need to be fed, correct? I didn’t see that in @Ragingfit ’s videos.
     
  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    As suggested in #27, you can just cap it off.
     
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  15. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I haven't done this swap yet contemplating it for other vehicle but maybe never get there Not sure yet. But it seems to me if you have them hanging both there you should be able to make the gen4 engine look like the Gen 3 bracketry and all of it and still get the benefits of the Gen 4 internals rings whatever they've done but apparently this is some sort of a challenge I haven't put this challenge in front of me yet so I don't really know what it is and I haven't watched the other guys six videos back here five or whatever it is I might do that tonight.
     
  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The head's a bit different. The Gen 3 water outlet connections won't just go on it, so you have to kind of improvise something. And the Gen 4 timing cover has a new water outlet for that pipe that runs around the back, so if you're not using that you'll at least need to plug or cap it.
     
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  17. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    Or look at a different solution.
    Here's an app and device review for Gen2. See post 37.
    I did try a couple (from #7-10) on a Gen3 when one was in the shop and it seemed to work. I would EXPECT similar functionality from all four on a Gen3 vs Gen2.
    https://priuschat.com/index.php?posts/3290690

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  18. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    Thank you for the recommendation/information. I Decided to order thinkdiag over autel. I’m hoping the check hybrid system warning doesn’t come up when I try to start up again. If not, I can at least try to clear the code out.
     
  19. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    Duly noted. I think I got the water connections down but I’m going to rewatch @Ragingfit a few more times. The swap from Canada by Jdmods combined with some other videos really confused me.
     
  20. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    If I ever get this thing running I’m posting a video on how to set the engine back together with the transmission easily. There doesn’t appear to be any video that helps with that. Only contribution to the swap challenge I can provide.