Getting good results with Tufoil oil additive

I have never been happy with ANY oil additive I've ever used........over more than 50 years.
I think a Teflon based product caused the valve guide seals to go bad on a Honda many years ago.
AND I believe that the owners manual says "Do NOT put any additives in the oil."

Proceed at your own risk.

 

How did you came up with this specific recipe? Trial and error?

 

You have GOT to be kidding.......right ?
This is just a troll......right ??

If that is true there is only one word that I can use to describe it: STUPID.
I sure hope you never have an oil related engine problem that might be covered under warranty.

THE OWNERS MANUAL SAYS TO NOT PUT ANY ADDITIVES IN YOUR OIL.
Certainly not a cocktail of 3 different ones.

P.S. Your posts would be a LOT easier to read if you would put some white space in them.

 

Of course they do. Ones that are tested by chemists and engineers of both the oil companies and the engine makers.
Not ones that are hyped by marketing more than scientific value.......and mixed into an unknown cocktail by a rank amateur.

What you are doing is absolutely dangerous. You don't know what you might end up with when those extra additives combine with each other and with what's in the oil already.

 

In my time; they said multi-grade oil will never work ..... but now it is the norm!!

When synthetic oil first came out; they said, it is NOT real oil, it will not work ..... yet it is recommended now!!

Their are two types of additives; one with zinc or teflon base material that coats the ice; the other type will clean by using solvents to strip the sludge and deposits. They are opposite from each other; One puts on; the other takes off!!

It will not be wise to mix the two types together!! I'm not saying you did; because I don't know about those brands. It appears that you are using the coating type; .... which, I think will be the FUTURE in oil?

Only time will tell? .... Big oil keeps big secrets!! It's all about MONEY!!

Keep us posted on your results!!

 

When engine parts get coated with "stuff" it is often called SLUDGE.

 

If you use synthetic oil; what do you think you are putting in your car?
Do some reading on PTFE !!
Polytetrafluoroethylene - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

Synthetic oils are made from alkylated aromatics, synthetic esters and polyalphaolefin (PAO).

 

Posts like this are a poignant reminder for why I don't buy used cars.

I don't have any problems with people performing physics and chemistry experiments with their cars, since I'm not that kind of control freak.
I'm bemused by the "It's a conspiracy theory!" claims for big oil, and you know what???
Let's pretend that the kooks are right and "big oil" is sitting on the secret to improving your mileage by 25%.

People usually buy chemicals and special "bolt-ons" for 4 basic reasons:
Mileage, Horsepower, Longevity, or they just love their baby, and want to give it the automotive version of nursery water.

As far as mileage and horsepower????
I'm thinking that "big car" would have figured it out by now, and that if any of this snake oil resulted in a measurable increase in MPG, then Toyota would be putting it in their cars from the factory so that your "record breaking mileage" could be added to THEIR EPA estimates.
They would put camel urine in the crankcase if it would result in a 2-percent increase in their 50-MPG EPA estimate because a sudden up-shift from 50MPG to 54MPG would make it onto the API wire service.
How about Dodge?
They would LOVE to up their CAFE scores to compensate for all of the Challengers and Rams in their fleet!!
They'd use Am$oil and Tuftoil combined!!!
AND the snake oil manufacturers would give them a steep discount because of volume and for the press!!
Camaro and Mustang owners?
Substitute BHP for MPG and the same theory applies.

As far as Longevity is concerned?
Neither "big oil" nor "big car" could give a rats about how long your car lasts, either way.
They just don't want to have a Renault reputation and they want the car to hold together for the OEM warranty period.
Period.

My theory is that most of this crap actually does more harm than good, and that most of the people that use additives like this are in the 4-and-out club.
It works like this:
They buy a car... and either torture or baby it for 4-5 years.
Either way, the additives are their way of buying flowers and candy for their car either because they love it or they're mistreating it.
4-5 years later, they're driving car # next and some poor sap is having to deal with the results.

In other words.....
Most of the people who do stuff like this never keep their cars for 250,000 miles, when any repeatable data proving or disproving their claims would be apparent.

That's my theory.
Like it or don't.
I use no additives, and I usually keep my cars for >10 years.
That way?
I don't have to worry about buying a car that's been "experimented" with!

Have a nice day!

 

That's the "If god wanted man to roll around in cars, he would have put wheels on out feet at birth." attitude.

I am sure that some additives and some "bolt on" modifications help, but like anything else, it's "the particular item."

I've used Tufoil, before and had good results. From my findings, it if composed of PTFE and molybdenum disulfide.

With what I have heard about Teflon or PTFE, I NOW believe that it is the molybdenum disulfide that has the most benefit.

On that account, I mow use a molybdenum disulfide additive. Mercedes, BMW and Porsche dealers all over Europe have recommended it and have had good results without any negative effects.

Whatever you do, it is your own "peace of mind" that means everything.

 

Since I started using tiger repellent, I have seen no tigers in Mississippi. Can you show any history of Prius engine problems that squeezing snakes for their oil is solving?

 

Snake oil was first sold to humans for internal consumption.

Chemical analysis revealed that No snakes were harmed or killed in making "snake oil," and it contained NO real snake oil.

And, as for engine wear, are you saying that there is NO engine wear in Mississippi?

 

I am unaware of any Prius engine in Mississippi that failed with Toyota's recommended oil and change interval, correct. Ask again in 40 years and I may have better stats, but the first 10 seem trouble free.

 

I will.

 

Actually.....
To play devil's advocate on behalf of Mike, the 'Moly-be-damned' stuff probably won't hurt, and there is some evidence that an abnormally large number of Priuses suffer from what I consider to be greater than normal oil consumption after 100,000 miles or so.
I personally think that the excessive wear is from neglect stemming from people confusing a 10,000 oil change interval with a 10,000 oil check interval.
Most of the people who put oil-o-snake in their cars probably care enough to actually check their oil volume regularly, and this is more than likely a large contributor to their longevity gains.
I always carry jumper cables in my trunk.
I always get lunar mileage out of my engine.
Therefore.....
Jumper cables will help to mitigate engine wear.

I respect Mike's opinion, and peace of mind is probably well worth the price of admission into the additive club.
However....(comma!)
I'll stick with jumper cables.

They're handy for helping stranded motorists too!

 

This thread reminded me of this.

 

Conventional wisdom leads one to believe that the best functional cylinder walls of an engine functions best with a highly polished smooth surface.

That is NOT the fact.

All cylinder walls are prepared with a cross hatched "honed' pattern of striations-striations or cavities in the cylinder walls that retain lubricant.

Oil is retained in these striations.

Wear occurs when these micro striations are polished out by wear as to no longer retain oil or lubricant.

Unburned fuel or ethanol in gasoline washes oil out of these striations which promotes wear.

Once the striations disappear or become polished out, they no longer retain as much lubrication as before. Oil passes across the cylinder walls and the surface of the rings. That's why cars "burn oil."

Molybdenum disulfide is a dry lubricant and is retained in the striations even when there is no oil fed or pressurized by the oil pump.

This is he benefit of MoS2 lubricant add to the oil. It, in smaller quantities, is part of the makeup of most motor oil additive packages, already.

 

The above is absolutely true, and it will be interesting to see if 30 years from now the OEMs start putting friction modifiers into sub-liter engines that crank out 300-400 BHP.
I'm thinking that a 600cc motor that cranks out 150BHP might need "miracle-lube" and designer oil, but based on what I'm seeing in the motorcycle industry these products might not produce 200,000 mile engines.
The smaller these little guys get, the more you're going to need even the diminutive advantage that the (insert base element here) based additive will yield.
You have to remember.....
20-30 years AGO we were barely getting 100BHP out of a 2-liter motor.

However (comma!)
If I'm able to consistently get 200-300,000 miles out of today's motor using nothing more than Luddite oil, then aren't these products a solution desperately searching for a problem to solve???
Most cars don't die from broken engines.....or even badly worn ones.
I don't have numbers to back this up but I'm presuming that even 15 years after launch, most Priuses (like....99-percent) are still being parted out in junk yards from non-engine related failures.
In fact....you can regularly buy a <$500 unit from a motor-doner that was killed in an auto crash.


Maybe "snake-oil" is overly pejorative, but hey....if you're out on the sharp end of the stick, you have to have a thick hide.
I say that for a 2014 Prius whose owner is planning to put less than 300,000 miles on, and who regularly checks their filters and fluids, it's unneeded.
It's like the nursery water example that I provided.

If that makes me a Luddite?
Well, that's probably true as well, but I'm a Luddite that has studied the issue, and has made an informed decision with demonstrative results., and I have a thick hide as well.
Poke away!
No claims here for "record breaking efficiency" of "better pedal response."


GOOD LUCK!

Edit: I spent an hour reading up on Archoil. It seems that they also make firearms lubricants and fuel additives. They're an interesting company.
I especially liked the Bell Labs reference, since I work for Big Phone, and we don't use additives for our standby generators (I have 4.)