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Getting wires through the firewall

Discussion in 'Prius c Accessories and Modifications' started by AQUA-K, Dec 9, 2015.

  1. AQUA-K

    AQUA-K Junior Member

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    I'm thinking of adding LED driving lights, does anyone know if there is a way to get the power wires from inside the car through the firewall to the engine compartment?

    I really don't want to punch holes in the wiring harness rubber seal. Been trying to think of a way to do this elegantly.
     
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  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Have you checked in your Wiring Diagram Manual on techinfo.toyota.com to see whether there is an existing driving light circuit that you could use, possibly by adding a fuse and/or relay that might have been omitted in your model?

    -Chap
     
  3. AQUA-K

    AQUA-K Junior Member

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    Thanks for the reply. I have a S Grade JDM & it comes with provisions to fix fog lamps and I think the wiring harness is there. However the switch comes in with a replacement turn signal/headlamp stalk. So using that wiring is not possible.
     
  4. djdawn

    djdawn Active Member

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    I'd be interested in this as well. I was able to pass through the firewall by following the hood release cable, but that required cutting through the grommet that holds the cable in place.
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Why not? One option is to get the stalk. If you don't like the price, another option is to find the affected wires (the wiring diagram manual shows their routing, color codes, connector locations, and how to release the terminal-retention mechanism in each type of connector), release the terminals in question from the existing stalk connector and extend them to your own switch on the dash. (I tend to do this by sticking the whole extracted terminal into a barrel-style junction block with my extension wire; keeps everything stock and if I ever want to undo it, the terminal pops right back into the original connector.)

    You still end up doing some wiring of your own to your chosen dash-switch location, but you use the existing harness wire that already crosses the firewall, which seems like an elegant solution to your original question.

    -Chap
     
  6. AQUA-K

    AQUA-K Junior Member

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    I'm hoping to keep the driving lights separately wired plus hoping to install a front camera on the grill (helps when negotiating tight parking slots/corners. I got down a wireless reverse cam transmitter/receiver so I don't have to get the video wires through the firewall. Can use the same route to power the camera transmitter.
     
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  7. djdawn

    djdawn Active Member

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    I know you're going a different route, but if you're interested I followed these instructions on get through the firewall. It shows the hood release cable path I used to push power for DRLs, forward camera, fogs and radar detector. As of right now that hole is getting cramped so I'm curious if you're able to find an alternate path.

    Edit: I forgot to put in the link..
    http://www.trdsparks.com/install/00016-47160inst.pdf
     
    #7 djdawn, Dec 9, 2015
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2015
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  8. AQUA-K

    AQUA-K Junior Member

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    Wow that must be quite a bit of wires :)

    Thanks for sharing your technique. I didn't know about the hood release option. All the suggestions I've seen involved cutting a hole in the wiring harness grommet (which I also did in my previous Toyoya Vitz). When I first read your post immediately I was interested in keeping this as a secondary option. Will take a look at the hood release cable path during the weekend.

    Originally I was hoping to use a fuse tap in the engine compartment fuse box to get power to front cam & DRL, however when I checked all the fuses were receiving power even when the car was powered off (at least all the fuses I checked). I have already bought a wireless DRL remote controller and a wireless reverse cam transmitter/receiver so I only need 2 power wires.

    Will keep on looking for an alternative and will post back after checking the hood cable path.

    Thanks .
    K
     
  9. TheTimob

    TheTimob Member

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    I tapped into the underhood fuse panel with an add-a-circuit fuse. I used the engine ECU fuse. This one turns on my front LED lights whenever the hybrid system is in ready mode. I have not had any issue with it - but it's still questionable lol. The downside is that the fuse holder is meant for regular AT-mini fuses - and the car uses mini-low profile fuses.

    My LED DRLs are in the turn signal housings. They are White/Amber switchback LED bulbs from DDM tuning. They are normally white all the time. When the turn signal comes on, the white switches off, and it flashes amber/off. After a very short delay of the signal going off, the white comes back on.

    So the LED DRL looks VERY similar to the top models of the regular Prius, and also the new Camry, but the turn signal function is similar to Audi/Mercedes/Chrysler implementation where the ornamental lighting turns off when the turn signal is on to increase the visibility of the turn signal.
     
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  10. AQUA-K

    AQUA-K Junior Member

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    Hmmm.. the ECU fuse would not be my first choice :) but using the turn signal housing is an interesting idea. The way you have set it up it really is a cool mod.

    I'm planning on installing a 4 LED light like the one below.
     

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  11. djdawn

    djdawn Active Member

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    I ended up using the heated seats fuse line for mine. I don't have heated seats and it only turned on when the car was on, so it worked out.
     
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  12. AQUA-K

    AQUA-K Junior Member

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    Brilliant idea.. thanks! This will be an ideal place to tap as there will be no load present on the fuse.

    Yesterday when I checked the internal fuse box I also noticed that there are fuses installed for options that are not in the car. Funny thing... always thought they would leave out the fuse for options not present in the car.
     
  13. djdawn

    djdawn Active Member

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    Scratch that. After looking at the fuse panel in the manual, I probably used the moon roof line. Again I don't have a moon roof. The seat heaters share the same fuse as the AC, so I probably stayed away from it. I'd go out and look in my car to be sure, but it's cold and dark and I'm lazy.
    If you're interested, the page I'm referencing is in the do-it-yourself maintenance book, page 54. Shows the fuse panel and what fuse corresponds to what.

    http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjMmIazg9jJAhVD7mMKHe1zDr0QFggpMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.toyota.com%2Ft3Portal%2Fdocument%2Fom%2FOM52A87U%2Fpdf%2Fsec_4-3.pdf&usg=AFQjCNHmq_OQTURutm0kHVPnkBVkzr1TNg&bvm=bv.109910813,d.cGc
     
  14. AQUA-K

    AQUA-K Junior Member

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    Great. Thanks a lot again (and for the manual pages). I just had a look at the hood release cable path and found that the rear windshield washer water line also come in to the cabin through a hole close to the hood release cable. Thats all great but when I look from the engine bay there is no sign of either of them going in. Looks like either its behind the ABS actuator unit or hidden behind the front shock, more like behind shock as the cable goes near the inside of the fender. How on earth did you manage to pull the wires in to the engine area?
     
  15. djdawn

    djdawn Active Member

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    The windshield water line I didn't see, but standing at the front of the car, the hood release cable is behind the front driver side shock. You have to pull aside the plastic protective lining in the wheel well to see where the release cable passes through the firewall.
    I could have sworn I linked to it above, but I'm not seeing it on my phone.. But the instructions I followed to get to that hood release path are on page 3 here:
    http://www.trdsparks.com/install/00016-47160inst.pdf
     
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  16. AQUA-K

    AQUA-K Junior Member

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    Wow.. you totally rock (y) thanks a million for the guide! Its crystal clear now. I almost though that getting the wire out from there would not be possible. I have to find some free time to get this done now.
     
  17. spyderx

    spyderx Member

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    I use the battery jump junction under the small fuse box under the hood, it reads constant 12v, to power my relay for HID. It's been working great w/o any issue. I guess you can add a fuse in series... Poking a hole in the firewall is PITA.