Glass of water out the tailpipe

I was working on the Prius today and needed to remove both front wheels. (My wife asks what am I doing under there? I usually respond Who knows?)

Anyways I setup two ramps to drive the Prius's front tires onto so I can get my 2 1/2 ton jack under the jack point. So I drive onto the ramps, shut her down and get out.

Passing the rear of the vehicle and I notice about 8oz of water laying where the tailpipe had been. How do I know it's water, I checked it (examined it, smelled it, rubbed my hand in it, smelled it again. No smell at all). I look up to see one drop of water in the tailpipe hesitating to make the jump.
I think she puked when the front end started raising.

I know about condensation in the catalytic converter and muffler, and have seen vehicles puke out some water, but 8oz of water in a new Prius.

If it helps any, I don't drive it right now (I will soon, I'm just fixing her up a bit) and after the last wash outside the garage, I parked it immediately after drying it outside.

Any thoughts.

ZC1

 

Well...GO TO BED!!

hehe, I need to go to bed
I'd better take a shower first.
I've been smelling chemicals all night. I gots a small headache.

ZC1

 

Smart Alec!


ZC1

 

I didn't get to that point yet, but Dave you are right.

Mufflers get rusted out rather quickly because they are holding some amount of water occasionally. The corrosion starts inside first.

Ever wonder why, on a crappy car, it seems the first thing to go is the muffler or muffler pipe.

I've actually seen mufflers that have a drainage hole but I can't remember when or where I saw that. I was thinking of putting a drainage hole in mine, well, maybe.

Maybe I should just drive it more.

(*The real reason the muffler rusts out, is those pesky muffler bearings. Once they get turned around, the water seeps in and BLAM, problem started. The only way to fix this, is add grease regularly to the zerk fitting on the bearing. If you think this might be your problem, just head over to any parts store and ask for the new improved muffler bearing, they'll know what to do.*)

ZC1

 

Gee Patrick, you almost know me. I did do that while I was there, since I painted something.

Richard,
I removed the front and back tires, twice, for a few reasons.

No particular order:
- Remove the tires to inspect the drum and disc surface since the alignment shop put over 140lbs ft of torque on each lug nut. I checked their mistake with my torque wrench. (too much pressure can cause warping).

- Dress the tires on both sides, while they are off.

- Inspect why I get a lot more than expected brake dust on the backsides of the front wheels and what to do about it. My impression from this forum was I could go 50k or more without new pads, at this rate (360miles) I won't have pads left at 5k, and I'm very easy on the brakes.

- Repaint the brake calipers shiny BLACK, not factory (chipped) silver and gray(which doesn't match anything on my car). I wouldn't normally do this but with today's wheels the darn caliper stares you right in the face.

- Seal up wheel wells with spray on sound deadener and underbody protector, I used 5 or 6 tall cans. Decreases the road noise from the stock tires and seals out salt entry into other crevices. (Preventive medicine prior to winter)

- Add Toyota mud flaps, front and rear (with extra screw)

-Wipe, polish and wax all suspension linkages until a high shine or gleam appears. since I never know when someone might inspect under there. (I can hardly type that without laughing)

- Okay, so I didn't polish or wax any suspension linkage, BUT... I did repaint the factory weld line on the black rear main support arms leading from the solid axle to the rear wheel. This area was already showing surface rust on the weld line. If it breaks thru again, I will grind it off, primer, rust proof with POR15.
I don't mind rust, but I don't want it on the weld lines on the actual support arm that hinges the wheel assembly to the axle. You can see the weld line yourself by glancing in between the rear tire and the front of the rear wheel well. You'll see a black support arm, that's it.
Toyota painted it, but did a poor job.

- Can't think of anything else right now.

ZC1

 

Again, the car puked another glass of water out the tailpipe while only moving the car 5 ft.

It's the 2nd time to do this and I now have a handle on why it's doing so and I'm surprised no one else is noticing the same issue.

First, I want to say this is NOT a problem with the car.

The car is in READY mode for some multiple hours while being modded or detailed while I listen to the car's stereo/CD.

During this time, the car's engine cycles ON and OFF repeatedly (for about one minute), every 30 minutes(?) for the purpose of recharging the main battery. The hood is warm due to heat rising from the inverter, not the engine, and of course the inverter is hot to the touch.

After a few hours, the car is moved forward or backwards perhaps 5 ft.
In two cases when the engine comes on, a discharge of water exits the tail pipe.
I knew there is normal condensation in the muffler but not a full glass worth.

Evidently enough condensation collects in the muffler each time the engine produces exhaust and the muffler is not heated enough to remove it. Hot exhaust air hits cold muffler metal for insufficient time to heat muffler = condensation inside muffler.

Given enough time, once the car moves forward, out spills an amount equivalent to a glass of water.

Again, this is not a problem with the car, do not call Toyota, don't write your congressman and don't phone the president.

I can tell you this: I'm sure the insides of the muffler is just loving it. Rust here I come.

ZC1

 

I'm gonna guess, Pat, that the exhaust system is made from bent aluminum, not stainless steel.

ZC1