Going to buy a 2005 with a dead hybrid battery

The 12v supplies power to all the ECUs, electronics and lights

 

Are the faults still present?

Its a bit hard for me to see that first graph, but it doesn't look all that bad. It looks like you have 2(?) blocks that are performing significantly better than the others. And the others seem to be grouped fairly well together. If block 8 was the one you swapped replacement modules into, (the blue line?) it looks pretty near middle of the pack. (if correct, what a guesstimate!!) Your delta V (average) is hovering around 0.25 which isn't bad for the age of the battery. Seen much worse. Even at a 40 amp draw it doesn't seem bad. You can always try recording while putting the hammer down pulling away from a red light or something to see what voltages do with a 100 amp draw.

Looking at the chart/spreadsheet, blocks 5 and 6 appear to be consistently weaker than the others, but that's not abnormal. Someone has to be the weak block. This is pretty much where the term whak-a-mole comes into play. If you installed a couple kickass replacement modules that performed way better than the others, it may not take much for the lower modules to trigger the delta V setpoint again, since the ECU is only looking for highest minus lowest. As you're driving more, this may shift around a bit, or it may stay the same....but the good thing is that you can monitor it anytime you'd like,

 

18% = almost time to plug that phone in

Now, depending on how far you want to go with this, you can take the two strongest blocks and the two weakest blocks, and rearrange the (8) modules to make 4 average blocks. That would tighten up the delta V.

Also, at this point and condition, I can honestly say the battery would probably respond very well to the Prolong device.

 

The voltage readings I took just before install don't seem to tell the story about blocks 6 and 14, they were 0.4 and 0.6 difference, but there were other blocks with the same difference.

As an example, Do you mean that block 6 had one module at 7.6v and one at 8.0v, and Block 14 had one at 7.4v and one at 8.0v?

 

Block 6 - 7.99 and 7.95
Block 14 - 7.99 and 7.93

Those voltages should not be a problem. Under high load, they may be quite different though.

Do you still have the P0A80 fault?

 

Load test the 2 questionable blocks. Hell load test the entire pack if you have time

 

No, only if the 12v was disconnected. Once 12v power is restored, it always takes 2 pushes of the power button to restore operation of the car. You will also lose radio presets and will also lose the "auto up and down" of the driver window. You can restore the auto function by raising the window completely and continuing to hold the window up button for about 10 more seconds. That enables the ECU to relearn the window position

 

Bunce,

What JC is taking about in regard to a load test is something similar to what I was describing using the AC system (or putting the car in reverse + brake and gas) to discharge the battery from about 65% down to ~40% to see an extended voltage curve of the modules. Using this method, all the power is supplied by the battery and you can clearly see if a block is below par.

 

If the code is gone, great. Now onto the real hairy stuff, misfires