Got code P3130 steps to repair?

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by kutcht1, Jul 10, 2014.

  1. kutcht1

    kutcht1 Member

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    On my way home in stop and go traffic the whole dash lit up with about 4 miles to go. Car was running as normal so I immediately thought inverter pump so got home and checked for circulation and there was good circulation. Pulled code with my obdII scanner and code P3130 came up. Cleared codes to restart and check circulation of fluid to verify and there was NO CIRCULATION. So, went and ordered the Toyota part #G9020-47022. Is there something else I should check before just changing the pump like a relay or electrical? Is there another place to get the coolant as the dealer has it at $32 gallon which is crazy. Then, if I do end up changing out the pump which I am almost sure I will have to which is a good way to burp the system as I have read this can be an issue. Does all the fluid (parts guy says two gallons) need to be changed out or just what spills out. I have searched and have not found my answers.
    Thanks!
    TomK
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The coolant pump likely has failed but you can remove the wiring harness connector and verify the presence of 12V at the connector when the Prius is either IG-ON or READY.

    Call around to your various Toyota dealers regarding coolant pricing. Either Toyota Long Life Coolant (red color, 100% antifreeze) or Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (pink color, 50% premixed with distilled water) can be used. SLLC has a 50K mile service life while LLC has a 30K mile service life. Obviously LLC will result in twice as much coolant volume, since you get to add distilled water to make a 50% mix.

    Yes, it is not easy to get air out of the Classic inverter coolant loop. There are two bleed nozzles and they don't work very well. However you have to keep at it until you hear the pump running smoothly and no air bubbling around. Plan to spend a few hours on this.

    Expect to use around 3 quarts of coolant. Drain the old coolant before starting, by removing the correct drain plug at the transaxle (closest to the engine.)
     
  3. kutcht1

    kutcht1 Member

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    Thanks Patrick, I will go ahead and check for power and get coolant and replace pump when it come in. Then I will cross my fingers for a few hours while I hope to get the air out. Where can I find a good image of the drain plug for the transaxle so I do not remove the wrong one? I will poke around.
    TomK
     
  4. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    There are only two drain plugs at the bottom of the transaxle. The one closest to the driver's side of the car is the transaxle ATF drain while the one closest to the engine is the transaxle coolant drain.
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    On the Gen 1 it's pretty easy to tell them apart - they are the same size (use a 24mm socket) but the one for the transaxle oil is screwed into a removable steel oil pan, while the one for the coolant just screws directly into the aluminum transaxle case.

    I think later-generation Prius transaxles did away with the removable oil pan ... which would make the two plugs harder to tell apart. :)

    -Chap
     
  6. kutcht1

    kutcht1 Member

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    Excellent, I will take a look and hope for success with the bubbles. Can I just replace the pump and clamp the hoses so little spills out and replace what comes out or is that not smart and just replace all the coolant?
    TomK
     
  7. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Yes, you could clamp the hoses. However you need to observe the coolant change intervals (50K miles if SLLC; 30K miles if LLC) so if the coolant is old, this is a good time to change it.
     
  8. kutcht1

    kutcht1 Member

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    Then I will change it since I have only put on 10,000 miles myself and have no maintenance history. Do you remember how many gallons the system takes?
    TomK
     
  9. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    My post #2 above suggests you'll need around 3 quarts of coolant for the inverter/transaxle coolant loop.

    Also, replace the aluminum washer on the transaxle coolant drain plug when it is removed. This can be purchased at your local Toyota dealer when you buy the inverter pump. Tightening torque of the drain plug is 29 ft.-lb.
     
  10. kutcht1

    kutcht1 Member

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    Thanks Patrick, I now do remember reading that but got caught up with the rest of it. I will pick up the washer when I pick up the gallon of coolant. Pump was ordered online as I was able to get it for $50 less than my dealer wanted.
    TomK
     
  11. kutcht1

    kutcht1 Member

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    Ok just to give a follow up as I always like it when I find a thread that leads to an end. I got the new inverter pump installed with no problems and the coolant draining was quick. Getting the air out took about 30 minutes or so to get the pump sounding the way it should using the key just in the READY position. In this process the 12V battery went dead and I had to give it a trickle charge over night. Hooking everything back up and starting the car the coolant level went down some and had to add as it cycled on and off a few times. Over all it was WAY smoother than I had expected with what I had been reading and also a youtube video. To get the air out it seemed best to have the pump running with car in the READY position and working with the hoses and opening the release valve a few times to let air out. I did not need the hoses I bought for this as I just let out small amounts of fluid that I had a towel ready to catch. Thanks for the help.
    TomK
     
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  12. DjTrex

    DjTrex Junior Member

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    Hey Tom, i just popped with the same code (P3130) as well as P3125, C1259 and C1202. I am not a mechanic but have gotten my hands greasy before. How tough is this for a novice? I'm worried about the whole burping process. I've blead brakes before but not sure of the process with this project. Could this code 3130 be causing 3125 or does it seem the pump and inverter itself is bad? I don't want to change the pump and then realize that i still need to mess with the inverter itself. I have an appointment at Local Toyota dealer for Tuesday to diagnose the 4 codes exactly. $110 for that.

    First off, how can u tell if there is or is NOT circulation?
     
  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Take a look at the reservoir while the key is ON. Look for coolant visibly flowing, with a little waterfall one or two cm high near the front.

    -Chap
     
  14. kutcht1

    kutcht1 Member

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    Sorry I did not see this earlier as I was a the cabin for the weekend. Changing the pump and burping was no big deal for me as I also thought I may be in for a fight with it so do not worry about it. Checking for the pump working is easy and clear as it can be heard and the circulation is clearly visible. If this is what you need to solve your issue you should have no problems so do not scare yourself.
    TomK
     
  15. Sohaib Alarabi

    Sohaib Alarabi New Member

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    ive faced this problem before ....and it was a nightmare of a recurring problem ...taking the water pump out and testing it on an external power source and water to confirm if it was faulty or not was a big part of the solution .... in the case am talking about we ended up finding a bent hose tucked beneath the inverter and obstructing the coolant flow which gave the same result as a bad pump even though the pump is still good

    hope this was helpful
     
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