Got off work to a puddle on my passenger side floor.

Maybe just a bad seal on the Windshield. Looks pretty dirty though. Spray it down real good with a hose and see if it'll leak again.

SM-N900P ?

 

Well that sounds like a leak to me.
What did the dealer DO about it ?
It usually means that the AC drain hose is blocked or pulled loose at the top.

Don't completely dismiss that as the cause this time too.
You won't notice the leak at first because it will be under the carpet and only becomes evident as it gets deeper and soaks through.
More water runs down from the AC when you stop.

 

Do you have a sunroof?

 

IF.....it was raining, it might have been damp enough for it to run for de-humidification, whether you had it turned on or not.
Guess it's also possible that it is antifreeze.
Maybe you should take it to the dealer NOW......with the water still pooled up on the carpet.

 

Check the trunk.

If there's any water under the tire you probably have a leak caused by a body crack or cracks in the hatch corners Many posts about that.
Easy to search.

Open the hatch and right where the upper corners meet in the hatch well right off the hinges is where there's alot of body flex. Thats where the roof and the side pillars are welded together and puttied. You may see a crack coming from under the black plastic strip that runs the length of the roof where it ends at the hatch corners. Pop that black plastic strip up and look under there.

If no body cracks there you have an ac leak from the drip hose. And thats because the ac system has not been maintained.

No posts about windshield leak except those who have been in a front end accident and have had the windshield replaced and performed poorly.

 

This is a fairly common problem as cars get older.
Over the years, several home remedies have been tried.
This from reports from others:
Do NOT try blowing back UP the drain hose to un-clog it. All the crud, part of which probably is MOLD, will be blown all over the AC coil and inside the duct work.......making one HELL of a mess; sometimes a stinky one.

If the drain hose is plugged up, running a soft wire up the hose (like copper), followed by a good suck with a shop vac. sometimes has good results......sometimes.

A dis-assembly of the duct work and a thorough cleaning is the only really good fix......but that is complicated and thus expensive on most cars.

 

I found this video on youtube, it may help solve your issue:

 

WOW. Once again Toyota has a better idea.
That's amazingly easy compared to most other cars.

IF in the video, the left side of the hose goes to the AC evaporator and the right side is the discharge to the outside,
the example shown indicates that the drain hose is plugged and not the collection tray, which is usually the problem.

EXCELLENT contribution though. If you can put it up on a rack and access the end of the hose, maybe just one good suck would do the whole thing.

 

Dealer fix is the 2 can spray. One can has the attachment to the hose. $25 per kit. Once the blockage is removed I recommend doing the cleaner can twice as it appears the e-coil box is pretty gunked up. Maybe a smoker.
Need to do it at least once a year. I do mine when I change the oil.

 

The video's method is a good idea. Would work for fridges too I think. Thanks for linking this. Love also the dramatic sound track, and the "duck" tape.

 

The problem with THAT is that the dense "mechanics" fail to clear out the blockage, wherever it may be, BEFORE applying the sanitizer/
deodorizer. There seldom is a real problem unless and until the collection tray stops draining properly.

 

Applying vacuum at the 2 hoses as shown in the video is never going to cause issues. It's pulling stuff back up the drain hose, in reverse direction, likely highly effective with any blockage. And when suction is applied to the AC side hose, it's for sure not going to be putting any gunk back into it.

 

Went to my dealer today and Southeast Toyota no longer uses the spray can with the special hose made by Service Rite for under dash evap cleaning. I asked the parts guy what are they using now instead and he did not know.

Here's a cheaper alternative that seems to be the same stuff: