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Head gasket EGR or the 2ZR Engine 2010 prius

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by johnnychimpo, Dec 30, 2020.

  1. johnnychimpo

    johnnychimpo Active Member

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    My 2004 prius had 240K and still running strong it got rear ended and was totaled. I kept that car and this one looking like new I take car of my cars. Im the guy that cleans the door jams every car wash. How long do these engines tend to last when egr circuit and oil is changed on the regular.
     
  2. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    No egr circuit for the Gen2:).

    The engines start to consume oil at some point. So watch the engine oil level;).

    They are tanks(y).
     
  3. johnnychimpo

    johnnychimpo Active Member

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    Sorry asking about the Gen three 2ZR engine
     
  4. johnnychimpo

    johnnychimpo Active Member

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    What about moving the EGR pipe on the manifold past the Catalytic converter like the 2016, would there be a issue with smog or anything else? Anyone try this???


    cat mod.PNG cat mod 2.PNG
     
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  5. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    I had 200k miles on our 2010 when I sold it in April of last year:).

    And it was going strong;).

    I consumed a bit of oil, but at 200k miles I got good life out of it (y).
     
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  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You can look in some of the threads that involve swapping Gen 4 engines into Gen 3 cars.

    The type of EGR adopted in Gen 4 is called 'catalyzed EGR' for the obvious reason that the gas being recirculated comes from after the cat. That changes its chemistry, giving it a different effect in the combustion chamber, and lowers its pressure, requiring all of the EGR components to be upsized to pass enough of it. All that stuff is changed together on a Gen 4 engine, including the ECM programming that manages it. The threads on the attempted swaps pretty much all end up trying to improvise something to get the engine running semi-decently, but always an approximation and a hack. In a CARB state it is unlikely to be approvable.
     
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  7. johnnychimpo

    johnnychimpo Active Member

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    So when I leave the coolant cap on my car does the cold morning shakes at startup and at prolonged stops.
    Here is a photo of my oil I suspect the white shades are coolant. when I leave the cap off the car rarely does the shakes at startup.
    I would like your opinions, I suspect I am in the infancy of a head gasket leak. Someone tell me like im five as I am frustrated that a clogged egr cooler is the cause of this blown head gasket. Im mean why is there not a sensor that says HEY NO PRESURE OR LOW PRESURE OR NOW FLOW SOMETHING!!!!! to tell you the cooler is clogged. sorry just venting.
     

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  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    There is; look up the detection condition for P0401. It is also possible to pull up, whenever curious, the most recent test value from the self-monitor test that is responsible for setting that code.

    So far, it seems safe to say that Gen 3 head gaskets are an often-reported issue here, and that a connection between that and the EGR system is suspected by a number of posters here and frequently repeated as fact.
     
  9. johnnychimpo

    johnnychimpo Active Member

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    Yea about that.... I got the P0301 & P0302 Miss fire code. its kinda after the fact the damage is done. I got the code then cleaned the EGR system ran like dream after I cleaned it all out but then noticed the milky substance in the oil.
     
  10. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    JOHNNY, change the engine or go to your room! And no more backtalk young man!

    If it makes you feel better, there is no evidence that a clogged egr causes the head gasket. There is evidence that bad piston rings forces blowby into the intake manifold and into the cylinders thanks to the pvc and egr. Its the chicken and the egg dilemma - what came first? In the chicken's case it was a mutation. In a gen3 from 2010-2014 it was the piston rings.

    If you want an easy way out, dump some block sealant in it and you may get a few months out of it. If you have already bought an engine, put it in and feel great for the next 100k miles. Sell it three years from now and get something newer. 300k mile cars are ready for pasture.

    If you change the engine, do three things like your wallet depended on it:

    1. Change the oil every 5k. On time, everytime.
    2. Start with a clean egr and clean intake manifold. Catch Can if you will check it regularly.
    3. Keep the speed below 70 mph.

    You will be happy about it when its running well again. With no rattling ever.
     
    #30 rjparker, Jan 1, 2021
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2021
  11. johnnychimpo

    johnnychimpo Active Member

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    Sound advice I will follow it. Yea motor will be in tomorrow. what should I do with the old engine seriously nothing wrong with it runs like a dream except the blown head gasket.. what does the oil dipstick say to you?
     
  12. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    You could change the head gasket, and valve guide seals.
    Replace the pistons and rings. Then you'll basically have a new engine.
    Then you could sell it. :)
    Having a spare engine would be nice. I wished I could get a hold of one to rebuild.
     
  13. johnnychimpo

    johnnychimpo Active Member

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    how hard is it to do all this? then once done how do you test it? beside the obvious to put it in a prius?
    what would it cost for a mechanic to do it since its out of the engine should be cheaper right?
    I really want a 2016 engine but I will just deal as long as I baby it I suspect I should get a good 250k miles out of it.
    my last one went 180k mile without egr cleaning ever. This is odd mine never burned oil it alwasy looked good a little brown at the end of the 5k miles but thats why you change it. no coolant in the oil thats whats frustrating everyone says the rings are bad on this model but mine never burned oil ever.
     
  14. johnnychimpo

    johnnychimpo Active Member

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    ok so I will have a new engine what about the transmission besides an oil change what else can I do to keep it healthy
     
  15. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    With the engine out, it's easy to get to all the bolts and remove the head and oil pan.
    And then the connecting rods, etc.
    Cost I could not tell you. But you can check prices from Toyota or parts stores.
    Same with the mechanic.

    I think it would be a pain to get it hooked up to test outside of the Prius.

     
  16. johnnychimpo

    johnnychimpo Active Member

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    Im going to cancel my engine order and replace the head gasket myself. this engine never burned oil so and I drive 90 percent freeway.
    that being said is there a guide to doing this project if so please advise. Also it never overheated, do I still need to check the head for warping if so where do I take it or can i do it myself? one more thing do I need to change the valve guides for sure is it hard do i need a special tool?
    or can I get away with not doing it as I said only issue is coolant in the piston an barely starting to see signs of it getting in the oil or at least I think so.
     
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  17. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    You can do a search for the head gasket job. Here on Prius chat and online.
    Watch them a few times, and watch a few! Everyone has "there way" of doing it.
    I"m sure Mendel will chime in with info. :)
    If you have a straight edge, you can check if it's warped. It probably is okay, but better safe than sorry.
    And do NOT hurry! Take your time and double check everything.
    I would recommend changing the valve guide seals. They come in the head gasket kit.
    And you can do it yourself. You'll need a valve spring compressor. There are a few types.
    I have a spring one that clamps around the spring and on the retainer and it screws down so you can get the
    two clips out. DO NOT LOOSE THEM! Use a good magnet to retrieve them off the valve stem.

    I do not know what your skill level is, but it's not a real hard job. Just lot's to do, and it will take time.
    Torque everything correctly. And after you get the timing chain set and you release the tensioner, rotate the engine
    720 degrees(two complete times) and check the timing marks. They SHOULD line up. The highlighted links on the
    chain may not, but the timing marks MUST.
     
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  18. johnnychimpo

    johnnychimpo Active Member

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    very good gents now for parts and tools.
    Is there a good gasket kit recommended I am willing to spend the gold on the best product.
    and is there a guide for tools needed? can you post a link to the spring compressor?
     
  19. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    These engines are amazing machines that will run with slightly bent rods and coolant in their cylinders. High speed highway driving is the worst for heat warping and blowby. Use only Toyota gasket sets and sealants and proceed at your own risk.
     
  20. johnnychimpo

    johnnychimpo Active Member

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    Ok taking a look at a bunch of videos on how to do this job I have two questions that are not clear.
    1.how to properly reinstall the timing chain tensioner
    2.removing then reinstalling the timing chain cover does this affect the oil pan gasket or not at all?