Head gasket EGR or the 2ZR Engine 2010 prius

#2: No

#1: You compress the tensioner, then toggle a little latch to keep it compressed. Install, then rotate the engine a bit and it should release. I’m vague on the “rotate” details. You should be able to look down from above, see and hear it release, observe the chain get tauter?

Hopefully someone who’s actually done this will respond.

 

Quality of the Fel-Pro kits is poor. Their valve cover gaskets tend to leak after a few years and they like to substitute paper gaskets where rubber/steel gaskets were originally used. The head gasket itself is probably fine though.

The factory Toyota head gasket probably got you >150K miles. I do not have the same confidence in the aftermarket stuff.

 

Order from the link I posted. It’s a program subsidized by Toyota. Shipping is free as long as you use the code.

 

For reference, from TSB 169 (oil consumption fix), the gasket kit part number is 04111-37315.

I looked that up on Amayama (my go to site in Canada), and for me it’s $152.54 CDN (~75% of USD), from UAE (United Arab Emirates). Shipping is “?”, but with my past experiences with them I would hazard $30~35. Plus: I’ve had no sales taxes, duty or whatever; that’s it. And with “?” shipping showing, I’ve asked in past and they say just complete order and they will get back to you with firm shipping cost, before finalizing.

From my location, and it may revise cost/currency for you, for sure if you register.
I use them because they typically undercut US sellers (there’s squat in Canada) and they mostly won’t ship here anyway:

Genuine Toyota 04111-37315 (0411137315) GASKET KIT, ENGINE OVERHAUL - Amayama

Do check them out. in my experience orders took around 10~12 days, and I believe with COVID it’s somewhat longer now.

 

Amayama shipping at reasonable cost 10-12 days now takes 3 months. Only other options from them at the moment are FedEx or DHL via air, scary expensive. Hopefully this is temporary.

 

Good to know. Note though, at least when I looked today it said ETA a week or two.

 

US dealers are at least offering free ground shipping on orders over $200. In my opinion, there is a value in ease of obtaining. I don’t know how much more you are willing to spend for availability on parts, but when I plugged it in to Toyota of Louisville, that set is around $280.

 

Yeah my perspective is diff: US places won’t ship here period lol.

 

I’ve seen a good one, can’t recollect where. My 2 cents: this is not something you just pick up and expect to do well, best left at a knowledgeable machine shop.

 

Rebuilding heads requires expensive machines and extensive expertise to do well. I would certainly get a price quote from a top notch auto machine shop.

 

I can post a repair manual except in a bit, still nothing much to it. Quick version:

It’s good to have a long handled wrench, preferably a ratchet, or a plain breaker bar (18” long is good. The drain and fill bolts are both socket head cap screw, takes a 10 mm Allen Key style socket. You can buy them in sets. Both bolts can be stubborn to break loose; don’t even think about using an Allen Key with pipe extension, do it right. Also have a torque wrench: install torque for both is 29 ft/lb. replace the washers; dealerships will have them.

Dealerships will also have the proscribed Toyota ATF-WS; you should get 4 quarts or litres. The fill will take somewhere between 3.5 and 4.0. Even if all 4 are used up don’t sweat it, it’ll be very close to spec level. Some are using alternative fluids, but Toyota recommends STRONGLY against this. They also say to only use freshly opened bottles (recycle left over).

Correct level is achieved by filling with the car LEVEL, till it starts coming back out. Don’t neglect this, do it right, and be safe.

The simplest way to fill I’ve found, is a funnel with tube extension. 3’ of tube should do, maybe start with a bit more, then trim to suit. Keep tube OD 5/8” or less, to fit easily in the fill hole.

Both fill and drain bolts are on the passenger end face of the transaxle. IIRC roughly around 9 and 6 o’clock relative to the drive shaft going in. Maybe. The coolant drain is on the bottom; don’t want to mix them up.

it’s always good to break loose the fill bolt first, just in case you have problems.

 

Replacing the valve guide seals you can do your self. Lapping in the valve, you can do yourself.
Resurfacing the head, yes, you "can" do it yourself, buttttttttt..... best to leave it to a machine shop.

For the seals, you just need a valve spring compressor, remove the retaining clip and spring.
Pull off the seals, usually with pliers, clean off the valve guide, spray the new seal with silicone,
then push on the new seal.