Headlight projector retrofit - HIDs to the max!

Thanks guys.

The kit from TRS (their Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1)) comes with Morimoto 3Five (35W) ballasts according to the web page info.....

I'm very familiar with JBWeld (two old Lincolns in the garage).

Sounds like the shrouds come out of the box designed to 'friction fit' only (?)

So my aim is to ensure that the projector/shroud assembly acts as a monolithic device. The only thing that should move is the bulb if/when it needs replacing.

Am I correct on this?

Thanks

Cheers

Mike

 

FL8

Thanks lots.

This is the kit I will buy:

Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1) - Complete Retrofit Kits from The Retrofit Source Inc

100% agree.

I note your aiming procedure prior to re-sealing the headlamp assemblies. I'll ask the audience: have other folks employed this headlamp aiming technique? Or is there enough play in the headlamp adjustment mechanism to not have to add that extra step of driving with no headlamp units in place?

Questions about the baking and separating:

• at the start of the thread, detailed instructions show the removal of every metal part from the housing before one begins. Is this to avoid some sort of 'heat sink' action of said remaining metal parts over-heating a localized area of the headlamp assembly? Reason I ask: I'm going to lay the assembly on a pre-heated metal grate in the oven. Does this not also affect anything, or is this the reason for the seven minute limit?
• when hot and about to pry open the housing, does the taffy-like glue want to leak everywhere or is it of a hi viscosity so as not to unexpectedly leak all over the place?

Last dumb question: I see the kit comes with relays. Will I still be able to turn my headlamps on and off via the OEM headlamp switch (i.e. are the relays wired in such a fashion as to be totally transparent to someone operating my car (such as my wonderful wife))?

Thanks so much for the help.

Cheers

Mike

2 days and counting

PS off-topic sidebar question: I's also like to replace as many of the incandescent bulbs (interior and exterior) as I can with LEDs from warden_jp2002 Stores Auto LED bulbs
Using the Sylvania list (attached) as a guide, will warden_jp2002 Stores Auto LED bulbs satisfy all the requirements, or do I have to source a few other places?

 

I don't ever have the opportunity to work with retrofit "kits", just bare projectors. So my alignment, aiming, and curing are very different. Once I set mine in they only move about on the base reflector which allows for up/down and side to side. Not rotational, and not much side to side. So I try to get it right the first time. My first retrofit took 3-4 bakes to get right. My last one still took 2 and there could be improvement but nobody but me will ever notice it, it is so slight.

1) Don't put the assembly on a metal grate! I use blocks of wood. I take 3 pieces of wood like cutup 2x4's, flooring, plywood, OSB, whatever I can find and lay them down in a triangle in the oven. Then lay the headlamp down so that it rests on the wood and nothing touches anything in the oven itself. You will just melt it otherwise.

The relays operate off the normal switch. The thing is HID lamps take a huge current at the beginning and it is less than optimal to run them off of the stock wiring which is pretty weak (it wasn't designed for this at all). So it just sees that you want this wire on, and uses that to signal another beefier wire to turn on.

 

OK, since I'm going with "a kit", I must assume that the alignment process may not be so labor intensive.

I'm ordering the kit today. If anyone has used the H1 kit, how did your headlamp alignment work out post modification?

THANKS for that important tip!!!!!

OK, wire to some appropriate 12V source thru the relay to the new ballasts, relay coil triggered by OEM stock headlamp switch. Check. Thanks much.

Cheers

Mike

 

Thanks!!!!!!

 

Reply from seawolf to my PM:

OK, check

No LED strip (but I do plan to swap the rest of the bulbs for LEDs)

That's what I needed to know. I suspect once I have the kit and the car and I am holding the headlamp assembly in my hand, this will all become patently obvious to me...

OK, the mod will not pop off/apart, but there is some shake under some conditions......when I see what I have to work with, I may add my own mod to address this one issue (and post pictures of same).

I'll capture that info/picture and post when I do the job.
Thanks again.
Cheers
Mike

 

Mike, are you getting an extra headlight? That'll get you started with one and you'll be able to continue to drive. Once you are done with it, you can remove both headlights from the car and do the other side quickly and then install them back.

 

Dennis, I thought of that but can't justify the expense. That said, I'll set aside two whole days for this project (I'm retired, so time is not an issue).

I just got off the phone with the team at TRS. I ordered the H1 kit with the upgraded XB35 5000K bulbs and its heading to a drop box in upstate New York (along with new winter tires/wheels, shark fin antenna, floor mats, EBH) for P/U in about two weeks......

I asked him about your units shaking over bumps in the road and he stated that based on your photo that shows at the end of page one (1) of this thread that your retaining ring is on backwards and not letting you tighten the unit as much as it could (again, his opinion of what he sees in your photo).

 

Ok, I screwed it pretty tight with a big pliers. It doesn't shake on normal bumps. The shake that I see on big bumps may be due to the projector weight.

I don't see how flipping the retaining ring would screw in better but then TRS know their product better than me. Let us know how it goes with your install.

 

When I do this project, I'll see what the rigidity factors for the existing architecture are.....I may add ribbing to strengthen it to take the additional moment (stress) the larger assembly puts on the housing.....

Will do, estimated in about three weeks from now.....

 

Question: how can I post pictures within the body of a post and not simply all attached to the end of a post. When I post my pictures I'd like to do the running commentary thing....thanks

 

Upload the image and copy it's URL and put it between tag. There is a button (mountain and sun) to create that tag as well.

 

OK, here is a test run....
I cannot seem to make this work.....I have photos on my computer hard drive. I'm able to upload them "Upload File from your Computer" in the normal fashion, but all they do is get tagged at the end of my post????

 

Which button give me the ?

 

OK, I just started a Cardomain one for my new Prius.
My old Civic is on cardomain with a bunch of photos so I'll try one:
Still no luck. Oh well, when I start this mod (or my heated seat mod) I'll just somehow wing it with the photos......

 

You need to reference an image, you referenced a HTML page.

For instance using the [ img ] tags (separated with spaces so it doesn't actually make it an image!) on this url: http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/4/286/3501/38214250001_large.jpg

gives:



In FF, just right click whatever image online and choose "copy image location" which will put that sort of URL in your clipboard.