This is a long post, for instructions on DIY HID ballast removal w/o cutting wires or plastic (it is possible), skip to the end. I over the past month I've noticed condensation inside the driver's side headlight assembly on my wife's '09 Touring. More recently I noticed that the headlamp was burned out. So today I set about trying to figure out what was going on since the headlight assembly has no apparent exterior damage which would allow water to enter the assembly. Removing the headlight was not terribly difficult, I just followed the steps shown in this video posted by luscious garage. However, replacing the lamp didn't solve anything and left me puzzling to determine the root of the problem. By swapping lamps between headlights I confirmed that I did NOT have a failed lamp issue. So at this point I figured I'd remove the cover plate at the bottom of the headlight assembly covering the light ballast. Its the one with the label "Computer, Light Control" and the yellow DANGER WILL SHOCK, BURN OR CAUSE DEATH" [note: I did this with the head light assembly removed from the car and disconnected from power] What I discovered was that the HID light ballast is located at the bottom of the headlight assembly, with the back of the ballast open to the interior of the assembly. If moisture collects in the assembly it ultimately ends up puddling around the ballast which then causes corrosion and ultimately failure, as was our case. Honestly what was Toyota thinking, putting the most critical and expensive component of the HID system in a location where when there is a breach in the headlight seal the water collects around an electrical component generating 25,000 volts when it is energized! No wonder HID's in Gen II's have such a reputation for failure. In my opinion this is a DESIGN FLAW. However ranting on Toyota's designer's or Toyota's refusal to accept responsibility for the headlight seal failure (sorry a 3-Yr/36K mile warranty on this issue is just long enough to ensure the failure will occur outside the warranty term) or this inherent flaw in the HID system isn't the true purpose of this post. Turns out there are no clear instructions on how to remove the ballast and more specifically snake the lamp connector around the reflector and remove it out of the ballast opening (not even in the service manual). One could just cut the wire, but then one is left with the problem of how to get the new connector and wiring harness back in. It appears from a forum search that others have gone this route and resorted to trimming plastic or disassembling the wiring connector and then reassembling it [which I wan't to keen on since this is the connector that transmits the 25,000 volts]. So here is how I solved the connector removal puzzle. Do this with the unit removed from the car and disconnected from power. If you have any reason to believe there might be a residual charge in the ballast, do not proceed. So here is the ballast, wiring harness and connector (upper right) once it was removed. The connector is what is such a problem to remove past all the obstructions inside the headlight assembly. Note the corrosion from the water inside light assembly. To start, remove the 4 screws from the corners of the cover and remove the cover. The ballast is mounted on the back side of the cover. Flip the cover over, and remove the black wiring connector (already removed in photo below). This connector supplies 12 volt power to the unit which is then converted to the 25,000 volts driving the HID lamps. Remove the 3 screws holding the ballast to the cover. To provide clearance for the connector removal the leveling motor must be removed. Turn leveling motor counter clockwise then disengage it from the housing then disconnect it from the reflector by turning the white aiming screw counterclockwise. (this picture was taken after I was finished so you can't see the connector, which would be in lower left of the picture or the wiring harness which would be passing through the opening at the right of the photo) The back, flat metal surface of the connector must be held tight to the flat surface of the plastic enclosure. Work it past the protrusion from leveling connector below. It is a tight fit but should not require excessive force Now past the leveling connector, we are looking through the ballast opening. Slide the connector to the right to the corner. Once in the corner there is clearance enough for removal And we are out! The HID lamp connector. My plan is to install a new ballast and reassemble everything and then seal the joint between the clear and black plastic halves with silicone sealant hoping this solves the water intrusion issue and prevents a re-occurrence.