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Help diagnosing P0125 code

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Nick Seifert, Mar 4, 2023.

  1. Nick Seifert

    Nick Seifert Junior Member

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    I'm recently getting a P0125 check engine code, "Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control".

    Using Hybrid Assistant I've plotted vehicle temps below, note outdoor temp 30F. Peak engine coolant temp was 194F. It does not seem to be overheating.

    Also it does seem like it's getting hot enough to enter closed loop control, Hybrid Assistant reporting S4 state.

    When I turn on the cabin heater, coolant temp dips a little. Seems fine and normal.

    I believe the Gen 3 has two coolant temp sensors, one in the block (ECT sensor), one in the tubing tee above that.

    Can anyone tell me which of those two sensors is the likely culprit?

    Also, the thermostat seems to be working, right?

    Thanks for the help. Screenshot_20230304-200958.jpeg 60993965.jpeg

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Per the P0125 description in the repair manual, the time limit for reaching closed-loop temperature is 85 seconds if the coolant started out 26 ℉ or above. More time is allowed if starting colder: 164 seconds if starting between 6 and 26 ℉, 20 minutes if starting below 6 ℉.

    Your graph shows starting well above 26 ℉, so 85 seconds was the limit. The graph looks like it was not quite 110 ℉ by that point.

    Of course, a freeze frame from the P0125 would show the run time in seconds and the measured temperature at the time the code was set.

    So the code really suggests the engine is just taking excessively long to warm up to closed-loop temperature, even though it eventually gets there. That could happen if the thermostat is stuck open, for example.

    The engine coolant temperature sensor is the one in the cylinder head. The other one measures the coolant coming back from EHRS.
     
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  3. Nick Seifert

    Nick Seifert Junior Member

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    Thanks, @ChapmanF . I was just going to update my post with your helpful explanation from over in this thread.

    Is it possible this could be caused by starting the car in this temperature, and immediately putting the cabin heater on the "HI" setting? I know Prius treats this "HI" setting differently, but can't remember exactly how. In Gen2 i believe that turned on some resistance heaters, but not sure if the cooling loop is somehow affected as well...?

    I've read elsewhere on PriusChat that the Prius' wax thermostats are very reliable. Mine is at 140,000 miles, so maybe due for one?

    I'm trying to avoid throwing parts at the problem, thanks for your help!
     
  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    140k miles is a good time to proactively replace water pump and thermostat; so kill two birds?
     
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  5. Nick Seifert

    Nick Seifert Junior Member

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    That is good advice, i wish my past self had known! :) I did water pump at 110k...

    Sounds like consensus is thermostat. i'll probably take another few Hybrid Assistant recordings and see if i can further confirm the diagnosis. Shade-tree wrenching is difficult when there's 2 feet of snow! Spring is coming though.
     
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  6. Nick Seifert

    Nick Seifert Junior Member

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    OK, I have confirmed both coolant temp sensors are working using an OBD2 sensor.

    For others looking to do this, i used the android app "Car Scanner ELM OBD2", which was free, and shows both the 7C0 and 7C4 PID's (again linking this post). Both are showing similar values during engine warmup, which is consistent with other descriptions of their behavior. see the attached image below.

    Guess i'm doing a thermostat!

    Am i correct that this is not a major, immediate concern? Engine is not overheating, both sensors are working. Coolant level is fine, and almost new (~30k on it, tops).

    I should be able to replace it within a week or two, but need to drive the car in the meantime. I don't want to risk a roadside breakdown and tow...
     

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  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    If thermostat is causing engine to run too cold, the main outcome is a drop in mpg, less cabin heat available, that sort of thing. It suggests thermostat opening too soon, and/or deteriorating gasket not sealing.
     
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  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The main difference HI makes is that it takes the cabin temperature sensor out of the picture. The numerical settings all mean "please use the heat intelligently to keep my cabin temperature roughly here", and HI means "forget all that, blast me heat no matter what!"

    When you're using the intelligent settings, you'll notice the heat does not blow very hard at first, and it sneaks in slowly as the engine coolant gets warmer. So it lets the engine warm up more quickly. If the HI setting starts blowing right away, I could easily see that prolonging the engine warmup time. (I mean, that's exactly why they made the intelligent settings not do that.)

    It's funny, seeing that they already programmed in different warm-up time limits depending on what the starting coolant temperature was ... and the ECM and the HVAC amplifier do talk with each other ... they could probably also have put in a rule to allow extra time before setting the code, if the heat is on HI. But nobody thinks of everything.

    HI does not, by the way, directly influence whether the electric supplemental heat comes on. That will come on any time the coolant temperature is low and the HVAC amplifier wants enough heat. But in a Gen 3, if you select ECO mode, that will prevent the electric supplement ever being used.

    If I get in a cold car and the windshield's frosted, I'll cancel ECO mode so the electric heat can defrost it faster.
     
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  9. Nick Seifert

    Nick Seifert Junior Member

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    One other symptom, which i'm guessing is due to this suspected bad thermostat. If anyone can confirm this symptom is related, i'd appreciate that.

    Prior to the MIL coming on, i had not been regularly using Hybrid Assistant. Using it recently though, i notice that the car is staying in S3 at times when i was expecting it to be fully transitioned to S4 (e.g. ~30 minute rural drive, then get on interstate, but car stays in S3).

    I can't seem to find an exact meaning to the S1-S4 states, but would this "lingering" in S3 be explained by a failed / failing thermostat as well?
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Have you stopped using HI heat mode as discussed in #3 and #8 and cleared the P0125 and it still is coming back?
     
  11. Nick Seifert

    Nick Seifert Junior Member

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    Yes, i stopped using the "HI" setting. No, the code has not come back yet. It was showing a permanent P0125, which was not clearable, but that is now gone as well. I didn't mention this in my original post, but had already cleared these codes one other time, but i did not change away from using the "HI" setting after that first reset, only after the second code clearing attempt, which so far if have no codes.
     
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    If the weather has not warmed significantly, and the code (including the permanent code) has gone away since not using the HI heat setting, I would be inclined to dismiss worries about anything wrong with the car or thermostat.
     
  13. Nick Seifert

    Nick Seifert Junior Member

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    Still no recurrence of this code, weather has been pretty similar, and still no use of HI heat setting. I'll probably do the thermostat later anyway. I'm glad it's less urgent so i can do it with a few other things at the same time (EGR stuff, intake manifold, throttle body, PCV valve).

    It really had not occurred to me this could just be a "bug" in the car's software / heating & cooling design. Thanks for the input everyone!
     
  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Have you got any reason for thinking the thermostat needs to be touched at all, whether urgently or less so?

    I'm inclined to think the chilly weather and HI heat override were the entire story.
     
  15. Nick Seifert

    Nick Seifert Junior Member

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    Well, yes, my reason is this is new behavior. I live in chilly weather, and this is this car's third winter. This is the first time i've seen this code. The HI heating position is used by another driver of the car, and i never thought anything of it before. It seems odd to me this is now happening unless something has degraded or changed.

    Thinking through options with the thermostat, it seems like: 1) it is clearly not failed closed, no overheating. 2) it could be failed open, or 3) it could be sealing poorly and leaking.
    • If the thermostat is not leaking, the block sensor will get hot quickly, then the exhaust heat recirc coolant sensor should start to see some temperature lagging the block. (From the other thread, looks like 7C4 may be the block sensor, which would be the one to get hot quicker).
    • if the thermostat is leaking, the block sensor will get hotter faster, but the exhaust heat recirc coolant sensor will see that heat slowly build right away.
    • if the thermostat is failed open, the block sensor and exhaust heat recirc coolant sensor will be almost in lock step from the beginning.
    In fact i did this already, starting the car from cold (32F when i tested), see the attached plot. A couple observations:
    • I'm not sure why the 7C4 sensor has a low limit of ~61F... the car sat overnight outdoors, at ~28-32F, so no way it's 61.
    • The 7C0 sensor starts increasing in temp ~90 seconds after engine start.
    • The 7C4 sensor starts increasing above the ~61 value after 140 seconds.
    To me this pattern seems to match either a very leaky, or failed open thermostat. If the timing for this test is that the block sensor should be above something higher than 110F after 85 seconds, this is clearly not doing that.

    Maybe these are the wrong PID values? Or let me know if you think my diagnostic isn't quite right too!
     

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  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I'm not sure that I even follow your reasoning about exactly what way different thermostat issues would affect the temperature increase timing difference at the two sensors. But it's certainly interesting and testable, so maybe the best thing to do at this point is to go ahead and replace the stat, and report back what you find about the condition of the old one, and what happens to the temperature increase timing difference with the new one.

    It would, of course, be good practice to first gather the old-stat timings over several test repetitions, and then do the same with the new stat.
     
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  17. Nick Seifert

    Nick Seifert Junior Member

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    I wasn't very satisfied with the temperature graphs above, so explored the OBD app, and added a few more parameters, including engine RPM.

    The car was run a few hours earlier, so the coolant temp was above ambient.

    Some observations:
    • 7E2 and7E0 seem to be the PID's of interest, likely in the block, as these increase first.
    • 7C4, for whatever reason, starts at ~60F, but then matches 7E2 and 7E0 beyond this point.
    • 7C0 lags all of the above, i suspect this is the exhaust heat recirc coolant sensor (let's say EHRCS)
    • The fact that the EHRCS lags the block sensors by only ~20 seconds is interesting.
    @ChapmanF could you post some further details on the P0125 code details? your earlier response indicated a check temperature, but not what the value was. thanks!
     

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