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Help Fixing Error Codes

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by peregrin, Jun 7, 2019.

  1. peregrin

    peregrin Junior Member

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    Hello everybody,

    We have a 2007 Prius with 315,000 miles. The computer indicated mpg has been a little lower than normal for awhile, averaging 42-44 instead of the usual 48+. Several days ago the red triangle of death showed up when idling, along with the CEL and VSC light. I pulled codes P0A80 and C1310. After resetting, only code P0A80. After resetting again, no code, took it for a test drive, battery was not recharging normally, and indicated mpg was below 40. Battery cooling fan was running more than normal also. Next day, both codes were back.

    Shut down, ordered Techstream + Mini VCI. I took the interior apart and hybrid battery cover off to look at the busbar and accompanying connections for corrosion. They all were corroded. I cleaned everything up, started it back up, no change - produced both codes, engine cycling on and off rapidly when idling.

    Techstream produced several codes that a normal reader would not, and told me that Block 4 Becomes Weak. (pictures attached of all Techstream results.

    What should be my next step? Could a weak Block 4 be causing all of this by itself? Anything else I need to check?

    Any help is appreciated. Car has run well its entire life, and we have been nice to it.

    Thanks!
    HV Battery Live.JPG C1310 HV System Malfunction.JPG ABS:VSC:TRAC Live.JPG Hybrid Control Live.JPG P0A80 Replace Hybrid Battery Pack.JPG P3000-123 Battery Control System.JPG P3014 Battery Block 4 Weak.JPG
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    yes, you need a new battery. check around for the best pricing at dealers, and compare to 'newpriusbattery.com'
     
  3. peregrin

    peregrin Junior Member

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    Not just Block 4 then? Go for the whole thing?
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    you can do one at a time, but others will keep failing, and it is called whack a mole. there are several ways of rebuilding a battery, all of which are described in detail in threads here, and youtube.

    after researching, only you can decide on the best course of action. from an outsiders view, a new battery is simplest, most reliable, but most costly.
     
  5. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    ^ what he said. It's laborious to change out a block or module. With your reported age & mileage + one failure indication already caught, that indicates several more are likely in the near future.

    It's always easier (in terms of both labor and vehicle down-time) to replace the whole pack. If you are heavy into electro-mechanical DIY the whack-a-mole game will cost less money, just remember that it is a real time commitment and the car sets the schedule.
     
  6. peregrin

    peregrin Junior Member

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    I don’t mind DIY, but yes, I agree that there is a balance there. This seems to cross the line of asininity.

    Is this a case of real failure, and not one where a battery reconditioning and balancing would help? Exploring as many options as possible...
     
  7. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    I don't have enough experience to make a properly informed judgement. But if I were in your shoes I wouldn't bother. My less-informed judgement is that you've had your moneys' worth out of that battery, time to change it. Or the whole car. I think hours-or-days of reconditioning would get you days-to-weeks of improved service. Not worth it.
     
  8. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Peregrin,

    There are many threads on the forum regarding different methods of solving your battery issues. Every person and every car is a different situation with different expectations. Take some time and review some of these threads. Only you can decide which method works for your situation. Many times, people have their battery repaired by a Craigslist "come to you and repair your battery for $400" ad, and 3-6 months later are right back where they started. I've also seen many batteries repaired by DIYer's that have lasted over a year. I know of at lest one that is going on 3 years. It greatly depends on how much testing and time you can put into it to ensure battery module quality.

    here's a link to some battery info...
    Just Another HV Battery Thread and Experiments | PriusChat

    here's another link that details testing of a Dorman remanufactured battery that I received after swapping a battery for a fellow forum member. I'll be making a thread today detailing this battery module testing and then installation and testing in my 2007. It's a good example of what can happen when everything goes right.

    Dorman Battery Experiences | Page 14 | PriusChat
     
  9. peregrin

    peregrin Junior Member

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    Alright folks,

    Curiosity got the better of me and I decided to change out the bad cells. I ordered a SkyRC Charger/Discharger, pulled the entire pack, disassembled it. The two that Techstream indicated would be a problem were clearly swollen on the sides. Replaced those, and upon balance charging discover that three other cells would not hold a charge properly. Replaced those as well. Total of five cells replaced. After buttoning everything back up, I drove about 30 miles and everything seemed fine. A few days later, same damned error codes came up.

    I think, at this point, it is time to replace the entire pack. I didn’t mind trying though, as I learned several things, (I like puttering around) gained some good software and a charger, and it was about $225 to try.

    Thanks for the info everybody. On to 500K!!!
     
    bisco and Raytheeagle like this.
  10. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i agree, well done! nothing like tearing into something for a good education (y)