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[Help] NGK Spark Plug - BKR5ERX-11P

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Kevin Ng, Dec 9, 2017.

  1. Kevin Ng

    Kevin Ng New Member

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    I have a Prius 2007 NHW20, two days ago I have changed my spark plugs to NGK BKR5ERX-11P. After changing the spark plugs it was working fine, then i have ln’t drove the car until today. While I was driving the car today. The failing lights turned on and I could not accelerate my car, so i have my car tolled to my garage. They said this type of spark plug aren’t for my car and it made my coil broke as well.

    So i am just wondering is anyone using this NKG spark plugs and is this the right model, or just my garage is bluffing and wanted me to change more things to make more money then just changing the coil itself.

    Anyone could help me with that? Thanks
     
  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat.

    Could try a NGK IFR5T11.

    Best to get the thrown codes read and post them here for additional help.

    How long did the vehicle sit before you drove it again?
     
    #2 SFO, Dec 9, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2017
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  3. Kevin Ng

    Kevin Ng New Member

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    Thanks. SFO.

    The problem its thats The garage people won’t give me the code, he just told me that it read that the coil is broken by my new NGK spark plugs thats why the service lights came on, (as he said even if he gave me the code i wouldn’t be able to understand). Before I’ve bought my spark plug, i personally contacted the NGK and they told me the mentioned model works fine with my car year and model.

    So now my garage was telling me to use OEM Spark plugs from toyota, other than that don’t use anything else.
    So i just wanted to find out the truth.
     
  4. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    If that plug was listed in your owners manual you should be good to go.

    How many miles on the vehicle, and what make and model of plug did you remove before recently replacing?
     
  5. Kevin Ng

    Kevin Ng New Member

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    The brand i before i replaced with my new NGK plug, it was a NGK as well. And my car mileage is 160262km.

    I didn’t looked at the model from my old spark plug
     
  6. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Buy a code reader then you wont be stuck like this in the future. Amazon.com look up mini vci thats what we all use has factory copy of Toyota Techstream software. $25 last I looked. Or DXDIAG makes a module for Techstream aslo. About $70. I have both they work well.
    Full diagnostics including all codes.

    The oem plug is a Denso iridium SK16R11. Thats what I use. The factory Denso Cops coil on plugs are expensive. Both are superior products.
     
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  7. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    If replacing the plugs and coils solves your problem, then just consider it a learning lesson. If you replace the plugs and coils and problem still persists, then the garage is pulling your leg
     
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  8. Kevin Ng

    Kevin Ng New Member

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    Thanks for everybody’s help
     
  9. 69shovlhed

    69shovlhed Surly tree hugger

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    tell the shop to give you the code on paper, or you'll tow your car out of there and tell everyone you know that the shop is dishonest. if someone told me that crap about "I wouldn't understand the code", I'd cuss them out bad.
     
  10. Prodigyplace

    Prodigyplace Senior Member

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    They should give you the numeric or alphanumeric code or codes, not just their own explanation of the meaning.
     
  11. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Most people just use what is recommended in the owner's manual which is either
    • Denso SK16R11 (Iridium); or
    • NGK IFR5T11 (Iridium) ($7.89)
    I just looked up a NGK cross reference and you could also use the following NGK plugs:
    • BKR5EIX-11 (Iridium) ($7.44);
    • PFR5G-11 (Platinum) (11.46);
    • BKR5ES-11 (Standard) ($1.99);
    • BKR5E-11 (V-Power Plug) ($1.99);
    • BKR5EGP (G-Power Plug) (2.79).
    The last three plugs are cheap and will not be long life, so would recommend not using them, unless you what to be replacing your plugs every 30,000 mi.

    The first 2 above would appear to be a good alternative, however, as there is not much difference in price between the 2 iridium plugs, I would just use the recommended plug.

    Whether using the BKR5ERX-11P caused damage to the coils is hard to say, but it would seem these are not recommended replacement nor are they iridium long life plugs.
     
    #11 dolj, Dec 11, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2017
  12. Kevin Ng

    Kevin Ng New Member

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    Wow. Thank you very much for all these information dolj. That's really useful and helpful of you. Many thanks!!!
     
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  13. Kevin Ng

    Kevin Ng New Member

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    I should have given more info. Basically I am based in Hong Kong and the spark plugs we can get from HK is Japan model and I found the spark plug from NGK Japan website.
    Screenshot 2017-12-12 18.00.40.jpg Screenshot 2017-12-12 18.09.34.jpg
    I did a little bit of searching from the internet. There is a site mentioned that BKR5ERX-11P is equivalent to PFR5G-11 which dolj has mentioned in his previous reply.

    So this mean it should works fine with no problem (I guess as I am not a pro.)

    Screenshot 2017-12-12 17.59.11.jpg

     
  14. 05PreeUs

    05PreeUs Senior Member

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    As others have suggested, use the specific plug called for in the owner's guide for YOUR car (market).

    Sparkplugs are not like soda straws, which may look a little different, might be slightly different in length and diameter, but all work equally well for sipping your drink. Even minor differences in resistance, thread coating, tip material and most importantly heat range can wreak havoc on a modern computer controlled engines and in rare cases actually do damage (too hot can cause rapid overheating).

    There is no code (DTC) for a failed coil, so them saying that is hogwash. Now, could the coil circuit be open, shorted etc? Sure, but that does not condemn the coil itself as there are many other possible causes (various wiring deficiencies).

    The MOST LIKELY cause of your woes is either a coil connection that did not get completely snapped in, or a broken/torn/electrically degraded coil boot causing the "spark" to not make it to the plug. Both are simple and quick fixes.