Help Please! Prius Code P0AA6, Dr. Prius Battery Test and Battery Warranty

Unfortunately, green bean is not a reputable company, although some have had limited success with their batteries.
And also, P0AA6 is a difficult code, and you need tech stream to get the sub code and the manual to find the trouble shooting tree

 

P0AA6 is about one kind of problem, and the "suspected problem blocks" as reported in Dr. Prius are a different kind of problem.

Dr. Prius is an app largely tailored for obsessing about the charge/discharge capacities of the blocks in the battery. That is one kind of problem a battery can have, and Dr. Prius is made for spotting that.

Although Dr. Prius is also able to show you any trouble code the battery is reporting, and so it will show you a P0AA6 if the battery's reporting that, the app doesn't really offer a lot beyond that for dealing with that kind of issue. P0AA6 is a case of the high-voltage insulation somewhere in the car (possibly, not necessarily, in the battery) not quite doing its job, and that's just a different kind of issue than block charge/discharge capacities, and calls for its own kind of troubleshooting.

The P0AA6 INF codes really are the quickest way to find out if the car thinks the issue is in the battery or someplace else.

 

Sounds like it's time for a lawer!

 

The lawyer will only take the case if they think they can win.
You're loosing time, pain, heartache, suffering, etc.
The green people give a warranty, make they abide by it.
Or you can get a refund and your old pack back so you can buy a new one.

There are some things that are not worth buying used.

 

There are a lot of things you might see often enough reading through these forums, but you have to be careful how representative they are of reality.

What the car does with the P0AA6 reporting is algorithmic like clockwork. At the first sign of current leakage, it will set P0AA6 with subcode 526 only.

That acts as a note-to-self where the next time you get in the car and turn it on, it sees the P0AA6/526 and it goes through a little dance watching for the leakage while it powers up in sequence, and that gives it the information to add a 611, 612, 613, or 614 subcode. (In Gen 1, you'd have to do that little dance manually, looking for the code first in IG ON, then in READY but neutral, and then when starting and driving. There were threads about how to do it. Later gens just essentially do that for you and set a subcode. You can also still do it yourself.)

I don't think that clockwork algorithm really very often fails to come up with the second code.

On the other hand, that will—again like clockwork—be what seems to happen for someone who keeps clearing the code at the 526 stage.

$700 for the diagnostic seems steep. What are the hourly shop rates there? To read this code and subcodes yourself, all you need is a scan tool that can read them, and you've got a bunch of choices of those for less money than that. And the scan tool, you get to keep, and it'll be useful on your future car issues too.

 

I can certainly understand your concerns and exasperation. However, an insulation error code means that there has been a breakdown of the insulation between the high voltage system and the rest of the automobile.
For your purposes, it is essential to know when this insulation breach occurred. This is complicated by the fact that you have not personally driven the car as a primary driver.
I would begin to ask some basic questions to try to determine whether this issue is actually related to the battery or the high voltage circuitry itself. My guess is that it is battery related. But, I could not take that to court.
Was the car serviced shortly before the battery failure? For example, if the AC unit has been repaired using the improper compressor oil, such an error could appear. You need to analyze the history of repairs before assuming that the issue is only battery related.