Help please

you have to have the trouble codes read to find out what the warning lights mean.

can be a lot of things, engine, battery, tranny, inverter pump, etc.

how many miles on her?

 

if they don't have tech stream diagnostic software, the codes may or may not be correct

 

A $11 code reader, paired over Blutooth with a free app like Torque Lite, will give you so much more information that we might help to better assist you. If you paid the App Store a couple of dollars for the 'Pro' version, you could reset the error codes and see which ones duplicate.

 

I think it would be a safe assumption it's probably a P0A80 code to "replace Hybrid Battery".

That's just based on you being in PA, the weather being cold, it was first thing in the morning after it sat all night, and of course, it probably the original HV Battery..

in addition...the READY light is still lit, which means you can still drive the car normally, just a bit more gently

 

Not sure I agree with that advice.

All the warning lights were on....including the red triangle of death. IMO the ready light being on doesn't override these warnings. Best to NOT drive the vehicle as much as possible until exactly what is wrong can be determined.

Not saying this was the case for this particular event. In fact it sounds like it was NOT..but...one of the most frustrating things that seems to routinely happen is when a vehicle...Prius or otherwise, gives multiple warnings that something is wrong, but people inexplicably just keep on driving.
Then 20, 40 100 miles or more when they have a major breakdown, they are going.."Gee, What Happened?".

To me?
You've got a Christmas display of warning lights?
The best thing to do is to NOT pass go...but ASAP determine what is happening, and drive it as little as possible in the interim. The "ready" light in the face of all the warning light is not a signal that the vehicle is at all good to continue to drive.

 

Yup its probably the hybrid battery. See the little icon in the upper left of the mfd that's the hybrid battery. fault. Ground fault or delta..

You my have noticed poor mileage and no power. have to keep close eye on battery charge behavior on the mfd on these old cars.

Becoming number 1 post on the G2 forum.

 

depends. you can look for an oem around 2k, an aftermarket at $1,600. or just replace some cells and rebalance.
what is your level of diy skill?

 

I pondered this same question as my HV pack slowly got worse. I don't have the tools to recondition, so that option was out. When I weighed the difference between a Green Bean reconditioned pack ($1350) , or converting to NewPriusBatteries Cylinder batteries ($1600), I opted for the New. The process wasn't hard, just detailed. I spent a whole day making the conversion, and am looking forward to years of worry-free miles.

 

This is my reference.....just saying the car can drive normally, not saying he should go out and have a driving party....

 

Well if I'm reading that chart right....
First of all it's coming from a specific and known code...P0A80...the op hasn't yet gotten the codes so it's unknown. It very well be that code once known...but at this point it's all just warning lights.
Secondly...
I'm reading "Driving Condition"...in other words...the car has a ready light and appears to be driving "normally"...but that isn't a declaration that the vehicle, can or should be driven "normally". In other words, it's not saying "ready light=you can or should continue to drive normally".
IMO once you have warning lights....the car isn't "normal" even if it has a ready light and is not showing any outward symptoms.
Especially if you have yet to have codes read, or revealed.
Bottom line to me is...the best approach is warning lights? Strive to STOP driving until you discover exactly what the problem is....too many people just don't do this.
I've read too many threads where someone will say that a warning light came on...hours, days, weeks sometimes months ago...they kept driving because everything seemed OK...then they are shocked when their vehicle has a catastrophic failure.
Therefore, I'm not telling the OP the vehicle is OK to be driven "normally"...best approach? Find out what's wrong 1st, and try to do so without taking the vehicle on any long road trips...just do it ASAP.

 

Sell it to me cheap, and I will

I chuckled a little bit at your explanation. I came across many Sellers who would say 'that warning light' or 'this warning light' has been on it for months, but it still drives normally. I walked away from all of those.

 

I guess the main difference here is that I more or less told him what the Toyota Repair Manual said for (an assumed best guess) P0A80, not some folklore I pulled out of my butt.

 

I guess the main difference with current experience working on these cars and not.

 

you can ask...

 

If you can pull the 12 volt and reset it and you can drive around the hybrid battery has a high voltage leak to ground it will then throw a ground fault nag. Basically its got a cracked battery cell leaking electrolyte and conducting to ground or severely corroded interconnect.
Be careful though driving it there's reports of loud bangs in the battery pack from driving with ground fault.

There's literally thousands of post about battery repair and replacement. Use the search forums button up top search and

hybrid battery