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Help! Stuck mid hub assembly removal on an 06 prius

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by dlgknight, Aug 25, 2012.

  1. dlgknight

    dlgknight New Member

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    Good afternoon,
    I've had some awful noise coming from the front drivers side of my car. Determining the likly cause to be the wheel bearing, I decided to tackle replacing the hub assembly as a lovely weekend project. Things were going along ok - Removed brake caliper, removed the axle nut (that wasn't fun), removed the rotor (rather persisntantly stuck on, but it gave in the end), and then came removing the hub assembly itself. Had a rented hub puller, put it on, started tightening it down and tapping on the hub as I went. It was getting pretty tight on there (was starting to worry about the safty of the cv shaft), and then as I tapped on the hub one last time, the hub and hub puller popped off the car... I was elated, until I realized rather than pulling the entire hub assembly out, it had actually separted the inner track of the bearing from the outer track, leaving the wheel bearing and flange behind inside the stearing knuckle.

    So, here I sit, with half my hub assembly on the ground and the other half still in the car.

    Does anyone have any ideas on how to get the rest of the hub assembly out, now that there is nothing to really pull on? I've tapped around on it for a couple hours, and soaked it in enough penetrating oil to make the car flamable, but no give. I've even tried putting the hub bolts back in through the back and tapping on them with a hammer to no avail (probably going to have to replace the bolts now, but one problem at a time).

    Any suggestions would be appreciated, as I'm currently just sitting here starring at the hub assembly in disgrace.

    Thans
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Can you remove the steering knuckle?

    If yes, then maybe once it is removed, you can visit a machine shop and have the remaining piece of the hub pressed out of the knuckle.

    Odometer reading? Sounds like you have lots of corrosion in the front suspension.
     
  3. dlgknight

    dlgknight New Member

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    That was my next thought as well, though I was really hoping to avoid removing the knuckle if possible... about 150k
     
  4. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    I hope you manage to remove the components successfully in a difficult situation and i'm afraid no more to add to what Patrick has said.

    Once dismantled could you please post any numbers that are readable on either end of the bearings (not the Toyota part number for the complete hub) or good pictures of the same, thanks in advance.

    John.
     
  5. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Only thought that stuff happened to me. So its stuck on the steering knuckle axle?
    You may have to buy an entire steering knuckle. Trying to picture what it now looks like.
    Can you get to the edge with a very small cutoff wheel and cut it off not nicking the steering axle?
    Or heat the stuck part up only with a torch which will expand it and it may pop off with a pry.

    Where do you live?
     
  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Hi Ed,

    No, that kind of stuff has happened to me as well, which is why I am not thrilled about working on suspension parts.
     
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  7. dlgknight

    dlgknight New Member

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    Sorry for the delay posting, it was a rather long weekend. I was able to get the steering knuckle off - it was actually considerably easier than taking the knuckle off my last vehicle which is why I was hesitant to do it. I was finally able to drive it out with a 2" trailer hitch and a 4lb drilling hammer. I'll get the number off the back of the bearing tonight and post it.

    Before taking the knuckle off I had also tried a 5lb slide hammer for about an hour. I also notched the hub assembly near the knuckle and tried driving in a chisel.

    Now I just have to figure out how to get the ABS, VSC, Brake and warning light off that I managed to turn on by being briliant enough to push on the brakes while the caliper was off... but at least its all back together and no more howling from the front end!
     
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  8. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Well done I think we all have had those jobs we wish we had not started, but congrats on a job well done and the satisfaction of not letting it beet you.

    John.
     
  9. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Congrats on getting the hub out of the steering knuckle.

    Pls do a search, there is a process that involves using a jumper on pins 4-13 of the OBD-II socket to clear the skid control ECU DTC.

    Next time, to avoid that issue, pls disconnect the 12V battery before doing any work on the front brakes or front suspension.
     
  10. dlgknight

    dlgknight New Member

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    Thanks. I actually found that thread this morning and tried it. Unfortunately the error lights came right back on. I think the actual cause was that I didn't line the hole in the dust cover up correctly with the ABS speed sensor :(

    I'm assuming there is no way to move that dust cover now that it's all back together without first losening the axel nut? The first time around I ended up cutting out the 'locked' portion of the axle nut to get it off (after breaking a punch and a chisel...) and buying a new axle nut. Though i guess now that I think about it i probably could have tried to have a different section of the axle nut line up with the groove to 're-lock' when i was done...
     
  11. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    I know I am going to get hung out to dry for saying this but just undo the nut without unlocking the stake. It will not damage the thread and you can re use the nut. Not recommended I know but works well enough. you can then replace the nut if you wish in your own time.
     
  12. dlgknight

    dlgknight New Member

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    Thanks Britprius. Seems to be a lot of conflicting opinions on whether unlocking the stake is necissary or not... Lots of people saying 'never loosen the nut without unlocking the stake or you could damage your threads..' but one has to wonder if anyone has actually damaged their threads this way, or if they are simply repeating the same warning others have propagated...
     
  13. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    If you look at the end of shaft that the nut fits there is no thread and if there was removing the nut cleans the thread as it is removed. Also the shaft is much harder than the mild steel nut.
     
  14. dlgknight

    dlgknight New Member

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    So, I was able to get the axle nut back off, adjusted the dust cover so the hole lined up with the abs hole in the steering knuckle, and put it all back together (without staking the axle nut yet, just in case), back into diagnostic mode to clear the error codes... and they came right back... :( Is there any secret to lining the sensor and the dust shield up correctly? Does it have to be just right, pushed back into the hub far enough, anything particular i could be missing? Or is just something else now...?

    The error codes I'm getting are -
    (!) - 69
    ABS - 42
    VSC - 45

    As always, any help is greatly appre
     
  15. dlgknight

    dlgknight New Member

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    I had also promissed someone a part # off the bearing - 3DACFD3SDB-2D
     
  16. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The 69 error code means either a hydraulic fluid leak, or that the brake actuator is bad. Did you open any brake fluid lines?

    Since the actuator replacement is a particularly costly repair, I suggest that you visit your local Toyota dealer so that the DTC can be read and a diagnosis provided to you.
     
  17. dlgknight

    dlgknight New Member

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    Thanks Patrick. I didn't open any lines, at least not that I'm aware of, and I haven't seen any signs of leaking fluid. Though I did have to compress the brakes to get them back on the rotor when I was done...

    It seems unlikely that an actuator would just happen to go bad while I'm replacing the hub. I'll certainly call around to the toyota dealers in my area, but the last time I had a check engine light they wanted over $100 just to do a diagnostic...
     
  18. dlgknight

    dlgknight New Member

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    Pulled the caliper back off and inspected the actuator - no leaking there either. I had someone press on the brakes while I tried to move the caliper on the rotor and it's definitely clamping down...

    Called both toyota dealers in my area and 1 is $115 to do a diagnostic, the other is $125. Any other idea of things I could check while i've still got everything apart??
     
  19. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    In one of your early posts you mention you put your foot on the brake pedal while the caliper was off. How far did it push the piston out of the caliper because it is possible it may have been pushed out far enough to let air in past the seal. If so it will require bleeding by Toyota as this is not a normal DIY job. This "may" be the source of your error codes.

    Thanks for the number from the bearings these will be of great help.

    Hope you get the problems sorted quickly and at not to much cost, also that it does not put you off doing repairs to your Prius.

    John.
     
  20. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The brake actuator is a rectangular box mounted to the engine compartment firewall. It has numerous brake lines running to and from it. You need to remove the cowl that houses the windshield wiper motor for access to this part.

    At this point I have no other suggestions regarding items that you can check. You need the DTC logged by the skid control ECU to see what is the problem.