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help, what did I do wrong?!!

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by fintonissimo, Nov 16, 2010.

  1. fintonissimo

    fintonissimo Member

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    I just attempted to replace my pcv on my 2008 Prius. I got everything apart, but couldn't get the old pcv to budge. I gave up, and put everything back together, and then installed a strut tower bar. I thought everything was fine, and I was going to take it for a ride.

    I started up the car and immediately got the red triangle of death along with the VSC and engine codes. As the engine cycled on, there was some clattering. I turned the car off and tried again. Same thing, clattering along with the codes.

    Does anybody have an idea of what I did to cause these symptoms? I thought I reconnected everything correctly. My thought is that when I was working on freeing the pcv, maybe I pulled too hard on the wires in that area and did some damage, but I sure hope not.

    Can anybody please help?

    Thanks, Chuck
     
  2. chado1000

    chado1000 New Member

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    The best thing you can do is retrace your steps. If everything looks ok, I guess you will have to take it to the dealer and have them check for trouble codes.
     
  3. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    Try disconnecting the negative lead of the 12v for 10 minutes.
     
  4. Hal W

    Hal W New Member

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    Did you put the vacuum hose back on the pcv? I am sure you did ,but check as there maybe a kink in the hose? H
     
  5. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. Regarding the PCV valve removal, I suggest that you use a 6-point socket of the correct size on a 1/2" cheater bar. Attach a steel pipe to the end of the cheater bar if you need to increase your leverage.

    2. Not sure what "clattering" is. I interpret that to be engine misfire. If your car engine is misfiring, then you need to check the wiring harness connectors to the spark ignitors and the fuel injectors. Each connector should produce a click when pushed in, to show that the lock on the connector body has engaged.

    3. If you did not disconnect the wiring harness connectors to provide slack to the wiring harness, you may well have damaged something. Good luck.
     
  6. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    A disconnected hose would mean a big vacuum leak, which causes rough idle/stall in standard engines. Not sure the implications of a big vacuum leak on an Atkinson cycle engine but without question there will be some unhappiness. Another vacuum leak possibility is that you cracked the old PCV when trying to get it off. Might as well make another attempt at the job and see if getting everything installed and put back together correctly fixes the problem.
     
  7. fintonissimo

    fintonissimo Member

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    Ok, I disassembled everything, and could find no obvious problems. I checked all the hoses in that area. I checked all of the connections. I doubt very much that I cracked the pcv, but the edges of the bolt part got worn when I tried to get it off (using all that I had, an adjustable wrench) the first time. I don't have the right tools to get it off now. So, I let it be, and put everything back again. I tried to start the car, and still got the red triangle. As the engine cycled on (as it does when you first start the car) it was rough again, and now I'm getting warning lights for VSC, brakes (yellow indicator), and the check engine light.

    I then tried the battery thing, disconnecting the negative lead on the 12 volt battery. I waited, and reconnected it after about 15 minutes. I then went to start the car again, same problem. Unfortunately it looks like I will have to get it towed to the dealer to check it out, unless anybody has a better suggestion.

    I sure hope there isn't anything that's going to be an expensive repair!
     
  8. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    Are you absolutely sure that you didn't hit or move any wires in the process? My first guess is that you displaced a piece of wiring while rooting around under the hood.

    Tom
     
  9. fintonissimo

    fintonissimo Member

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    I must have displaced something, either wiring or a hose or something. I couldn't find anything obvious, though, when I checked the second time. I thought I was being careful enough (I followed the pictures and instructions on how to replace the pcv from another prius chat member), but obviously something must have happened. My wife said that "I was over my head this time", however, even though it didn't turn out right this time, I knew what I was doing with the detailed pictures and instructions! The only thing was I didn't have the right type of wrench to move a stuck pcv...all I had was a small adjustable wrench.
     
  10. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    Wives are so helpful! Nothing like getting picked on, hearing that "I told you so," when you are frustrated.

    Seriously, though, it is either a vacuum leak or disconnected sensor. My gut feeling is a vacuum leak. All the warning lights come on because the engine is operating outside of emissions tolerances. It all goes back to what you were working on, the PCV valve and hose. By the way, I can guarantee that you could buy the right tool to remove that PCV for far less than the towing and dealer services charges.
     
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  11. fintonissimo

    fintonissimo Member

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    Yes, you are probably right. However, I don't trust myself now to fix the problem, and I've already spent too much time on it. I'm happy that towing is on my auto insurance, so that's not a big deal. I'm at the dealer right now, waiting for their feedback. Hopefully it is as you say, and nothing serious. If it isn't anything serious, then I will probably get out of here for about what it would have cost if I had decided to have somebody do the strut bar and pcv in the first place. Oh well....!
     
  12. Hal W

    Hal W New Member

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    Keep us posted on what the actual problem turned out to be. H
     
  13. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    The clattering is disturbing. Like Patrick said thats a misfire. Hopefully thats only what it is. Only way that could happen is if you somehow swapped the coil over plug wiring harness. Meaning you put cop harness #3 on 4 and #4 on 3. I read the write up on replacing the pvc and it looks like a real pain and apparently you have to remove those cop wires to get at it. That would have thrown cycl 3 & 4 misfire P303-304.

    If you like working on cars you should pick up a Scangauge as they can pull codes. They have a good deal here at PriusShop on one and most of us have one. It could have pulled the codes on this event and helped you figure it out.

    Cause thats the first thing the dealer is going to do.
     
  14. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Sounds like you have decided to have the dealer fix the problem.

    My suggestion is that you should throw away that adjustable wrench, or at least resolve to NEVER use such a tool for auto repair. Buy the correct ratchet wrenches (1/2" and 3/8" sizes), appropriate metric sockets, and a selection of open and box end wrenches for that work. Good luck.
     
  15. fintonissimo

    fintonissimo Member

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    I have a ratchet and metric sockets, but they wouldn't fit down in there to use on the pcv. I don't have any open or box end wrenches, though, so I should probably put that on my Christmas list.

    Good news and bad news...good news is that I made the right decision to take the car in to the dealer. I must have lifted the wire harness too high to get to the pcv, as a couple of the wires were pulled loose...bad news! Good news, I didn't have to get a totally new wire harness as they were able to fix the broken wires. I also had them go ahead and replace my pcv. Total bill with tax came to $480.

    I am not one who enjoys working on cars, nor am I highly skilled in that area. However, I'm mechanically minded enough to usually know what I can do and can't do, and usually don't get in over my head. I am interested in saving money if it looks like something I can do myself. The Prius Chat knowledge article on replacing the pcv made it look like something I thought I could do. The pictures and descriptions were very informative. Where I went wrong was lifting up that wire harness too much as I was struggling to get the pcv loosened, and also not using the right kind of wrench. So, hopefully other novice people such as myself who are trying to save some money can learn from my mistake. I had no idea I was breaking any wires because I couldn't see what I was doing. I certainly didn't hear anything break or snap. I didn't know the wire harness was as delicate as it was, and I thought I was being careful enough. Good news is my car is back to normal, although now I have to disable the seatbelt and reverse beeps again!

    Thanks for all the helpful feedback.

    Chuck
     
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  16. fintonissimo

    fintonissimo Member

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    Actually, it's better than I thought...after the $100 for towing, what I actually paid for the repair work was $380. My insurance company will reimburse me for the towing once I submit the receipt. I'm just glad I didn't have to get a new wire harness, since that part alone is about $2000 new!!

    Time to move on. It's nice to be able to drive my car again!
     
  17. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Thanks for your update. Yes, it is necessary to disconnect the spark igniter and fuel injector wiring harness connectors to provide necessary slack on the engine wiring harness so that you can lift it up sufficiently to access the PCV valve.

    I'm wondering how many miles are on your odometer?
    Not to mention the labor charge which would also be quite high, since the wire harness snakes into the car and is connected to various ECUs there. The tech probably has to remove the cowl above the engine, and most of the instrument panel to gain service access.

    Anyway, glad to hear that your story had a happy ending and the lesson had a relatively low price tag associated with it.

    <I recall one auto repair incident where I got in over my head: I decided to replace the engine oil pan gasket on my BMW 325i convertible, perhaps 15 years ago. Among other things, the service access required disconnecting the steering column shaft. I could not reassemble that shaft, so I had to have the car towed to a local independent shop where the tech quickly fixed that problem. That lesson didn't cost too much, and it taught me to be cautious about taking apart assemblies where I don't have the tools and knowledge to put them back together... :rolleyes:>
     
  18. fintonissimo

    fintonissimo Member

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    I have 48,685 miles on the car as of tonight. Why do you ask? I know it was a little early to replace the pcv, but better early than too late! I figured that while the dealer was fixing my problem they might as well put the new pcv in.

    I was driving around town tonight, testing the car out. The strut tower bar definitely makes it more solid in the turns. I haven't tried it on the highway yet. I was going to Home Depot to buy a fuse for a floor lamp dimmer. (my floor lamp repair was successful!) While I was there, I also took a look at the wrenches... Christmas is coming, you know!;)
     
  19. andyprius

    andyprius Senior Member

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    Hear,Hear! A ajustable wrench has very little leverage, but one can round off the corners so even fitting a correct socket or box will not hold, also it is very easy bust your knuckles should you use the wrench wrong ( pushing ) Ajustable wrenches also known as a cresent wrench has very limited use. But, you know that now. :D
     
  20. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    Glad to hear that it all worked out, and that you were able to get in and out of your local dealership so quickly!
     
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