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Help with brake issue

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by dpframing, Aug 29, 2017.

  1. dpframing

    dpframing "Nobody tells me what to do, not even me."

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    I have a 2013 Prius 2. I took it in to get inspected, and the guy calls me and tells me it' gonna fail inspection because the front pads are low. So I gave him the ok to replace the front pads. 15 minutes later, I remembered that I did NOT tell him to disconnect the hybrid battery. The job was half done by then. I call him and he says to me that he's done plenty of Prius brake jobs without the disconnect, and it never was a problem. I drove the car for 15 minutes after I picked it up, and it ran fine- no lights , codes, etc. and it was braking and charging normally. Of course I looked at the pads he replaced, and there was AT LEAST 1/4" of meat left on them. He claims the computer failed them. Anyway, should I expect future problems with the car because of any of this?
    Thanks for reading.
    Domenic
     
  2. gliderman

    gliderman Active Member

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    I have done brake work on mine twice without disconnecting the battery. First time to change pads and replace fluid. Second time to grease the caliper pins.

    In Texas the computer cannot check the thickness of the brake pads. I dont know how any computer could. So I call BS on that one. Never go off what a inspector says is wrong. Have him show you. Then take it somewhere else to get it fixed.
     
    Mendel Leisk likes this.
  3. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    Never heard of a computer failing a brake inspection by the thickness of the pads. If your pads are less than 1mm, you will hear the metal brake indicator rubbing on the rotors. The minimum thickness to replace the pads are 2mm. You can also watch out video to learn how to replace your brake pads and rotors too :)

    Also, you don't have to disconnect the battery, just make sure not to open any doors while working on your brakes.
     
    Grit likes this.
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    amazing he gave you the incriminating evidence back. maybe he's just dumber than crooked.
     
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  5. dpframing

    dpframing "Nobody tells me what to do, not even me."

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    I imagine I lucked out and the doors stayed closed when he lifted it up.
     
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  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I'm sure you're right, guess I just REALLY want to be sure.

    Maybe, hopefully, it's only the driver's door that matters. I'm thinking it's a good idea to sneak into the car via passenger door, reach down and hand-tromp the brake pedal, to for sure take up any excess travel? Especially if you've pushed the pistons back for new pads.
     
  7. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    well, once the brakes are replaced and put back, opening the driver door shouldn't be an issue to go in the driver side and pump the brakes. Why pump the brakes while still working on the brakes?
     
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  8. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I think edthefox had a write up about doing brakes and not disconnecting the 12v. He would put blue tape on the drivers door handle to remind him not to open the door
     
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I always think, when everything's done, and before hooking up 12 volt, or turning on car, pump the brakes, remove excess travel. I heard somewhere the computer can detect excess travel, throw a code. Haven't had it happen though.
     
  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I think that was @NutzAboutBolts , the blue tape, IIRC, lol.

    Man, posting is like spreading pelletized fertilizer in a hail storm right now...
     
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  11. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Lol oops. Yeah, just don't want the brakes activated when you're working on them. Perfectly fine once it's put back together
     
  12. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    well if the engine is off, the ecu can't detect if the brakes are activated or not... Hope that makes sense? lol
     
    Mendel Leisk likes this.